When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The instructions in the Chilton manual for accessing the drivers side dash read "drop steering wheel." What exactly does that mean? and how hard is it??
Absolutely take out the 2 bolts and let the column down. It's very easy to break the lower part of the dash panel if you don't do this (don't ask how I know).
Be careful about dropping the steering column, as you could easily bend the column. If you want to drop the driver's side you need to remove the steering column altogether by disconnecting the rag joint and pulling the column out of the car. It's best to do this with the driver's seat removed. Be careful, that's how a frame off is usually started :lol: :smash:
Absolutely drop the column! If your careful, it can be lowered enough to pull the dash, but taking out the seat and the column is the way to go. I'm dealing with the legacy of some gorilla horsing out the dash assembly without lowering the column. It's broken in about six places and needs to be replaced, along with various wiring ends.
how difficult is it to take out the column? The person I bought my car from installed the dash pad with speakers underneath. Do I need to take out the column to access that drivers side speaker???
thejaf: I plan on eventually replacing my fixed steering column on my '72 with a tilt and telescopic. I'm going to get a complete wheel-to-rag joint assembly...I hope. If I just disconnect at the rag joint (plus electrical plugs and two bolts to drop it down) will I be able to easily remove and replace the fixed with the T&T?
No, if all you're doing is removing the top, you can get by with the following:
1. Remove passenger side pad (2 screws on each side, 3 along the top)
2. Remove the top center console screw
3. Remove the left 2 center console screws, 3 screws along the top of the driver's console, and the left 2 screws of the driver's console. This gives the driver's console a little room to move.
4. Remove both pillar pads (remove the sun visors first)
5. Remove the small screw securing the top dash pad to the center console
6. Gently pull the top pad away from the windsheild to unhook the clips.
7. Get creative with angling the dash pad (like a chinese puzzle) and remove it. You can bend it a LITTLE but not a whole lot. With the pillar pads removed, it should come out with no bending.
thejaf: I plan on eventually replacing my fixed steering column on my '72 with a tilt and telescopic. I'm going to get a complete wheel-to-rag joint assembly...I hope. If I just disconnect at the rag joint (plus electrical plugs and two bolts to drop it down) will I be able to easily remove and replace the fixed with the T&T?
Dep
You need to remove several screws (bolts) attached to the firewall and also make sure you disconnect the backdrive cable to the transmission (if it's auto). I'm no expert on this, however not too many people know more about this than Jim Shea here on the forum.
I have just posted some new papers on Terry Rudy's http://www.corvettefaq.com websight. Look under Steering. There is a new paper entitled Tilt & Telescoping Column 69-82 Disassembly and Repair Paper #2. This paper describes dropping the steering column on page #2. Also you will find an additional paper at the websight entitled Tilt & Telescoping Column 69-82 Installation Pics.
BTW these papers are generic and apply to the standard (non-adjustable) column as well as T&T.
Thanks Jim. Zip products has complete steering column assemblies and I found a couple of other places that have them. They're a bit pricey at around $600, but if they are complete without me having to futz arond with the internals, it would be worth the price to me. Only thing I'd need to change is the ignition switch, and the one that's in my car is shot anyway so I'll just buy a new one and two door locks to fit it. Locks are going South too.
Dep,
Why are you buying a new ignition switch? The standard column ignition switch is different from the T&T switch. Either switch will connect right up to your vehicle wiring harness. They just operate in opposite directions from each other.
The T&T column ignition switch rod pulls up toward the steering wheel to move the ignition switch to the start position.
The standard column ignition rod pushes down (away from the steering wheel) to move the ignition switch to the start position.
Jim: My current ignition switch seems to be screwed up. Doesn't go into accessory position. Not sure if the dimwit that had the car before me goofed it up or what. The new column will have a switch in it (probably) so it won't match the doors. And my door locks aren't too cool either. So I was just going to buy a kit with two locks and the ignition switch.