Dropping Rear Diff
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Dropping Rear Diff
Ready to drop the rear diff and am looking for pics or links to jigs that mount to floor jack and or diff. to make it a safe and easy 1 man job. This is the only pic I have Thanks!!
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gjohnson (07-01-2018)
#3
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: New Orleans Loo-z-anna
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An ATV or motorcycle jack does a good job if you or a friend has one available.
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gjohnson (07-02-2018)
#4
Team Owner
I just did mine alone with a aluminum floor jack i just got the balance point and lifted it up to where I could run the cross m bolts in a little bit with the jack still in place
the PITA was getting the drive shaft u joint caps to line up with the differential input. Lots of twisting the drive shaft and then crawling out to put the tranny in gear. Manual transmission. New differential are so tight that it is hard to rotate the output yokes
I used a short crowbar. I had to put each drive line strap on to ensure that each u joint cap was fully captured to the end of the strap
once all tighten down I jacked the differential up and tighten the cross m bolts. Then you do the snubber bolt in. Then each haft shaft. Rotating the drive shaft by hand.
I have smart struts with poly ends the wheels hanging down arc in. If you have the wheels off it is much easier.
so you jack the center mount with the struts attached up to the diff cover and put the bolts in. The next thing is 4 center bolts to place the spring. Then rear spring and end bolts. Last is the sway bar
the PITA was getting the drive shaft u joint caps to line up with the differential input. Lots of twisting the drive shaft and then crawling out to put the tranny in gear. Manual transmission. New differential are so tight that it is hard to rotate the output yokes
I used a short crowbar. I had to put each drive line strap on to ensure that each u joint cap was fully captured to the end of the strap
once all tighten down I jacked the differential up and tighten the cross m bolts. Then you do the snubber bolt in. Then each haft shaft. Rotating the drive shaft by hand.
I have smart struts with poly ends the wheels hanging down arc in. If you have the wheels off it is much easier.
so you jack the center mount with the struts attached up to the diff cover and put the bolts in. The next thing is 4 center bolts to place the spring. Then rear spring and end bolts. Last is the sway bar
Last edited by gkull; 07-02-2018 at 02:06 AM.
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gjohnson (07-02-2018)
#6
Drifting
I went with a approx. 10 X 10 plate as well with holes drilled to link up. Worked great. I just used the same bolt the the cup was bolted to the jack to hold the plate in place.
Brian
Brian
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gjohnson (07-02-2018)
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gjohnson (07-02-2018)
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the replys everyone. I'm down to dropping the crossmember and its fighting back hard!
#10
I just did mine alone with a aluminum floor jack i just got the balance point and lifted it up to where I could run the cross m bolts in a little bit with the jack still in place
the PITA was getting the drive shaft u joint caps to line up with the differential input. Lots of twisting the drive shaft and then crawling out to put the tranny in gear. Manual transmission. New differential are so tight that it is hard to rotate the output yokes
I used a short crowbar. I had to put each drive line strap on to ensure that each u joint cap was fully captured to the end of the strap
once all tighten down I jacked the differential up and tighten the cross m bolts. Then you do the snubber bolt in. Then each haft shaft. Rotating the drive shaft by hand.
the PITA was getting the drive shaft u joint caps to line up with the differential input. Lots of twisting the drive shaft and then crawling out to put the tranny in gear. Manual transmission. New differential are so tight that it is hard to rotate the output yokes
I used a short crowbar. I had to put each drive line strap on to ensure that each u joint cap was fully captured to the end of the strap
once all tighten down I jacked the differential up and tighten the cross m bolts. Then you do the snubber bolt in. Then each haft shaft. Rotating the drive shaft by hand.
#11
Team Owner
While you are at it, install a drain plug. I painted everything with Rustoleum epoxy black paint. It takes about 24 hours to cure.
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gjohnson (07-02-2018)
#12
Safety Car
Member Since: May 2004
Location: los altos hills california
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another way to get the diff out without dropping the crossmember
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1596024256
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1596024256
Last edited by ignatz; 07-02-2018 at 01:06 PM.
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gjohnson (07-02-2018)
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
After a nite of soaking in WD and a pickle fork I WON!. Thanks to all who reply'd. This forum is Awesome!!
No gasket?/ no leak!
No gasket?/ no leak!
#14
Race Director
I think the gasket is still attached to the cover. Fuzzy in the pic though.
Congrats on getting this done without killing yourself. It’s a pretty heavy part to remove solo.
One trick that I can offer for putting it back is to use a threaded rod on both sides. Just put a washer or two and a nut below the crossmember. Just run them up until snug and then replace the rods with the retaining bolts.
Congrats on getting this done without killing yourself. It’s a pretty heavy part to remove solo.
One trick that I can offer for putting it back is to use a threaded rod on both sides. Just put a washer or two and a nut below the crossmember. Just run them up until snug and then replace the rods with the retaining bolts.
Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; 07-02-2018 at 07:50 PM.
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gjohnson (07-02-2018)
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
#17
Team Owner
What was the reason for dropping the diff and do your yokes have more than .020 in and out movement?
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
#19
Tech Contributor
That diff doesn't look too bad but you can't tell a lot from some pictures - unless it was really bad. If it was quiet and has the original GM gears in it you may just need to check the axles and determine where the endplay is. Simple maintenance would be to replace the axle and pinion seals. Check the torque on the RG bolts, remove 1 by 1 and Loctite back in place, and check the axles. A lot depends on your application- if it is a street car, automatic with street tires the maintenance above is probably all you need. If you have over 400hp or will be pushing the car hard you should address the weak areas these diff's have.
You may not get what you expect from some rebuilders. You were warned about one such place but I can assure you they are not alone. As I was told in 5th grade- do your homework or pay the price- maybe several times. Good luck.
You may not get what you expect from some rebuilders. You were warned about one such place but I can assure you they are not alone. As I was told in 5th grade- do your homework or pay the price- maybe several times. Good luck.
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gjohnson (07-04-2018)
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter
gtr1999 here is a better shot. Original rear w90k. Quiet no noise. Its a Steet car w @325HP
Last edited by gjohnson; 07-04-2018 at 11:47 PM.