'68 wiring issues... advice needed
Long story short, I have a '68 small block vert that I bought sight unseen, and it was significantly more of a project than advertised. Basically a car I bought as a driver needed all new brakes, steering column rebuild, ignition/distributor rebuild, carb rebuild, etc to even make it drivable. Okay, rant off, and an expensive (to me) lesson learned.
The main problem: despite a new alternator (NAPA P/N 213-4011, built-in regulator) and battery, I can't get the battery to charge up at all. Voltage at the alternator reads pretty high, 15.5V or so on the multimeter, but the battery is reading < 12V throughout the RPM range. I tried disconnecting the battery with it running at 1500-2k RPM and it immediately died, which I think suggests that the alternator effectively isn't hooked up to anything. I was able to drive it ~20 miles or so today before it started stumbling over itself on tip-in (not a carb issue).
The wiring is kind of a disaster, another pleasant item that was misrepresented. It appears to still be routed through the original voltage regulator (which I'm sure is shot). So, I have a few questions - first, to see if the regulator is the issue: which two wires should I pull from the 4-wire connector to the regulator in order to connect them and effectively bypass it? Second, if I decide to go further, would replacing the whole mess with the Lectric Limited engine wiring harness (link) be advisable? Finally, (broad question) what are other hotspots I should check?
I'm really hesitant to put any more money into this car, and I don't exactly have an excess of time. At this point I basically just want to get the damn thing reliably drivable and sell it.
Last edited by Killer Instincts; Jul 3, 2018 at 12:01 AM.
Long story short, I have a '68 small block vert that I bought sight unseen, and it was significantly more of a project than advertised. Basically a car I bought as a driver needed all new brakes, steering column rebuild, ignition/distributor rebuild, carb rebuild, etc to even make it drivable. Okay, rant off, and an expensive (to me) lesson learned.
The main problem: despite a new alternator (NAPA P/N 213-4011, built-in regulator) and battery, I can't get the battery to charge up at all. Voltage at the alternator reads pretty high, 15.5V or so on the multimeter, but the battery is reading < 12V throughout the RPM range. I tried disconnecting the battery with it running at 1500-2k RPM and it immediately died, which I think suggests that the alternator effectively isn't hooked up to anything. I was able to drive it ~20 miles or so today before it started stumbling over itself on tip-in (not a carb issue).
The wiring is kind of a disaster, another pleasant item that was misrepresented. It appears to still be routed through the original voltage regulator (which I'm sure is shot). So, I have a few questions - first, to see if the regulator is the issue: which two wires should I pull from the 4-wire connector to the regulator in order to connect them and effectively bypass it? Second, if I decide to go further, would replacing the whole mess with the Lectric Limited engine wiring harness (link) be advisable? Finally, (broad question) what are other hotspots I should check?
I'm really hesitant to put any more money into this car, and I don't exactly have an excess of time. At this point I basically just want to get the damn thing reliably drivable and sell it.

Other than that, I'm thinking the full rewire the car needs (and deserves) will be a project for the next owner. I love the '68 but I really find myself missing the modern amenities and performance of the modded C6 coupe I sold last year after daily driving it for the previous 6.
Other than that, I'm thinking the full rewire the car needs (and deserves) will be a project for the next owner. I love the '68 but I really find myself missing the modern amenities and performance of the modded C6 coupe I sold last year after daily driving it for the previous 6.
Life goes on.
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1. Take a voltage reading at the alternator output. Write it down.
2. Take a voltage reading at the Horn Relay terminal. Write it down.
3. Take a voltage reading at the Starter Post. Write it down.
4. Take a voltage reading at the +Battery Terminal Write it down.
If you report back those reading then it should be possible to ascertain where there might be an OPEN. I rewired mine to go to an internally regulated alternator and eventually to a CS-144, but we can discuss that later if you want to go that way.
1. Take a voltage reading at the alternator output. Write it down.
2. Take a voltage reading at the Horn Relay terminal. Write it down.
3. Take a voltage reading at the Starter Post. Write it down.
4. Take a voltage reading at the +Battery Terminal Write it down.
If you report back those reading then it should be possible to ascertain where there might be an OPEN. I rewired mine to go to an internally regulated alternator and eventually to a CS-144, but we can discuss that later if you want to go that way.





This will solve your issue-
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alter...ss,116911.html


Can you compare the '68 and '69 schematics and determine what is connected to what?
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...jI1NDMyY2I3YzQ
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...GZjYjVhZWU4MGQ
This will solve your issue-
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alter...ss,116911.html
Edit: ordered new wiring harness and the conversion kit. I'll probably just have my wiring guy install them, as it will take him way less time. And then... probably up for sale. Maybe.
Last edited by Killer Instincts; Jul 5, 2018 at 10:12 AM.














