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Finally got my 1979 running decent, still has very tiny oil leak even though I replaced rear main seal and oil pan gasket, oh well engine is 40 years old and has 89K miles on it. Now I am moving onto preparing for paint. The car has the original color of forest green on it. Started with razor blade to remove paint but did not work that great when dealing with the curves and was getting nicks. Decided to go with stripping, Had a great discussion with Dub, he gave me a good idea, start with a headlight bezel as a means to learn how to perform the process so that I do not worry about screwing up my fiberglass. Well I am here to report that Dub's suggestion was perfect. I was a little cautious so I went with the Aircraft stripper for fiberglass, let it sit for about 15 minutes and started scrapping off the paint with plastic scraper. After scrapping I used lacquer thinner with some steel wool to remove everything remaining which was the remaining primer(grey) and the black sealer. Came out good, I started on the hood, noticed that with one coat of the Aircraft stripper for fiberglass, scraping with finally using steel wool and lacquer thinner I removed green paint and grey primer but black sealer did not all come off, will hit it again. I wanted to share my experience for others that are also novice when it comes to paint body of corvettes. Also want to thank Dub for willingness to share his knowledge and help fellow Vette owner. Thank you very much Dub if I am ever in Carolina will bring you some beers.
At 113 degrees I might suggest some Repair Fluid. There are lots of different types and some work better at different times of the day. Coffee or juice in the morning. Coke or similar between lunch and dinner. Maybe a Miller light after 5:00. Jameson or Jack Danieals only after job complete.
But 113 degrees maybe just cold water.
good luck with this. I may be starting this same PROJECT this fall.
I am also stripping the paint of off my 79 and am using the guidance DUB has provided to others. I have the front clip down to the fiberglass and it's a lot of work. I'm using the same brand of stripper you are and have had good results so far. It won't touch that black sealant though, and it seems only scrubbing with steel wool and lacquer thinner gets that stuff off. It's a messy job. I'm getting ready to start on the hood.
You may want to consider buying a pack of the wire brushes with the little heads on the back. They work pretty good at getting into the marker light hole and similar areas. Also, they can scrub that black stuff off all the way up to the rivet heads. These are the style I'm talking about:
I am also stripping the paint of off my 79 and am using the guidance DUB has provided to others. I have the front clip down to the fiberglass and it's a lot of work. I'm using the same brand of stripper you are and have had good results so far. It won't touch that black sealant though, and it seems only scrubbing with steel wool and lacquer thinner gets that stuff off. It's a messy job. I'm getting ready to start on the hood.
You may want to consider buying a pack of the wire brushes with the little heads on the back. They work pretty good at getting into the marker light hole and similar areas. Also, they can scrub that black stuff off all the way up to the rivet heads. These are the style I'm talking about:
I will go and get some, this project will take a while as I am going to give it a rest until it cools down. Will continue to post pictures on my progress once I pick up again thanks
I've had a good experience in stripping paint too. It's really the only way to go, because there is no sanding dust to get in the lungs, eyes, surroundings. Even with masks, dust inhalation risks are all eliminated with stripping. I used Citristrip a product I found at a Home Depot store, and didn't even have to deal with fumes.
And it's look sooo good after you're done.
I've had a good experience in stripping paint too. It's really the only way to go, because there is no sanding dust to get in the lungs, eyes, surroundings. Even with masks, dust inhalation risks are all eliminated with stripping. I used Citristrip a product I found at a Home Depot store, and didn't even have to deal with fumes.
And it's look sooo good after you're done.
Just to verify they pic you have is the light bezel after you painted it correct? Thanks
Dub,
I have gotten most of it down to the fiberglass. What type of paint sealer to apply, is it epoxy primer that I should be using as the sealer. I read that in another post, after the epoxy sealer there was recommendation of using poly coat.
thanks
I sue the PPG DP90LF adn apply it adn tehni apply a polyester priemr once the epoxy ahs been allowed to falsgh off well.
Keep in mind that IF you choose to use a polyester primer such as EVERCOAT's SLICKSAND you will need to get a paint gun with a large needle I nit...something like a 2.0 or greater and TEST it out before you go and apply the primer to the car so you can dial in your gun so you do not have ANY catastrophic results when applying the polyester primer....such as serious dry spray, excessive texture or runs.
NOW...you can use other primer such as PPG K36 if you want to but I do not due to the building capabilities and properties of the polyester primer....it works better for me.
YES...this polyester product can be applied on top of the epoxy primer. Below is some technical info on it and it sates it that it can.
Now I water sand the primer with 400 grit even though they do not recommend it. I water sand it due to I have methods to maker sure the water is out of the primer and in 30+ years I have never had an issue with paint blistering off due to moisture being trapped in the primer when I painted it. I will let it set outside in the sun and check the surface temp with my IR thermometer and also I use my infra red heaters, heat lamps or even heat gun on it if I have a suspected area of concern. The car may sit a day or two while being prepped for paint so that gives it even more time to get the water out...so I am not overly paranoid about this. This problem with water being trapped is generally due to shops that use it may water sand it and then take it into the booth right away and shoot it. I do not do that.
Not only that...this is basically the last step prior to it being painted so I thoroughly wash the car and get all of the wheel wells and areas cleaned prior to me masking everything off. .SO..that step is left up to you.
Dub
Another question, after I am done with the poly primer should I apply a 2K primer before the base coat? Also how many coats of poly primer should I apply?
thanks again
No need in applying a 2K primer. As for how many coats...that all depends on your style of painting versus mine.
Keep in mind that I have been doing this for LONG time and I have shot up test panels so I KNOW how thick my 'style' of painting is or IF I add some acetone to the polyester primer to thin it a very little bit...on how it goes on better and lays down flatter....and know how thick it is. The smoother you can get the surface of the polyester primer when you apply it is better than having it be really rough and textured. reason being...you will have d to sand off so much good primer to get the texture out. And THAT is why I will add some acetone and try to get the primer to try to lay down as flat as possible with the least amount of texture in it.
Keep in mind I always test it due to I am not shooting at the same air temperature all the teime...so in summer months when it is hot the mix may need some acetone after the first coat...while in the winter months when it is colder it may not need any at all of if it does a very little bit.
I generally apply 3 coast of the polyester primer. In SOME cases when I am blocking it down and I see the faint resemblance of the BLACK epoxy primer wanting to show through it. But yet I still need to do more sanding. I STOP before I break into my epoxy and shoot another 2 coats of polyester primer. SO....YES...on some cars I may need to 'double dip' it which means I primer it twice to get it right.
No need in applying a 2K primer. As for how many coats...that all depends on your style of painting versus mine.
Keep in mind that I have been doing this for LONG time and I have shot up test panels so I KNOW how thick my 'style' of painting is or IF I add some acetone to the polyester primer to thin it a very little bit...on how it goes on better and lays down flatter....and know how thick it is. The smoother you can get the surface of the polyester primer when you apply it is better than having it be really rough and textured. reason being...you will have d to sand off so much good primer to get the texture out. And THAT is why I will add some acetone and try to get the primer to try to lay down as flat as possible with the least amount of texture in it.
Keep in mind I always test it due to I am not shooting at the same air temperature all the teime...so in summer months when it is hot the mix may need some acetone after the first coat...while in the winter months when it is colder it may not need any at all of if it does a very little bit.
I generally apply 3 coast of the polyester primer. In SOME cases when I am blocking it down and I see the faint resemblance of the BLACK epoxy primer wanting to show through it. But yet I still need to do more sanding. I STOP before I break into my epoxy and shoot another 2 coats of polyester primer. SO....YES...on some cars I may need to 'double dip' it which means I primer it twice to get it right.
Then I will apply my sealer and paint the car.
DUB
Hey....what kind of primer do you use that thins with acetone? New one to me.......I have only used lacquer thinner or enamel reducer......
Dub,
Thank you for all your help with guidance on stripping my 79, I wanted to verify next steps with you., there is almost no body work on the car but I thought you advised to use slick sand primer. Are the next steps below correct, have some questions in there. Thanks again for all your help
1. after stripping hand sand with 80 grit
2. seal with expoxy PPG DP90LF
3. use slick sand apply 3 primer coats
4 block water sand the primer with 400 grit
5. apply a sealer, which sealer should apply?
6. do I do any other sanding or do I now paint the base?
07-06-2018, 01:26 PM
1979 paint stripping
