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My 78 Power Window Control on the passenger side had stopped working. I removed the right side of the console and where the wiring harness with the piece that has the contacts fits up into the toggle it has become dislodged. When I hold it up in there it will go up and down. Is this supposed to be a one piece deal or is there a way too reattach it? Thanks in advance for any assistance!
My 78 Power Window Control on the passenger side had stopped working. I removed the right side of the console and where the wiring harness with the piece that has the contacts fits up into the toggle it has become dislodged. When I hold it up in there it will go up and down. Is this supposed to be a one piece deal or is there a way too reattach it? Thanks in advance for any assistance!
The window toggle switch has three prongs. These slide into three brass lined holes in the switch that has become dislodged. I understand you to say that you have pushed the dislodged connector back on the three prongs. Now you push up on the connector and the window works.
if I understand you correctly I think I would suggest replacing the window toggle switch. The connector is a non movable part and other than maybe corrosion on the brass parts I can't see why it would fail. The switch on the other hand does move and the cam inside that switch can fail. When you push up on the connector you could be really helping the switch make contact. Wilcox has a video showing how to repair these switches.
been through this several times. Took apart the switches and did the repair. Worked for a while. Put new cheap switches in. Worked for a while. Put new good switches in and works over two years now.
The window toggle switch has three prongs. These slide into three brass lined holes in the switch that has become dislodged. I understand you to say that you have pushed the dislodged connector back on the three prongs. Now you push up on the connector and the window works.
if I understand you correctly I think I would suggest replacing the window toggle switch. The connector is a non movable part and other than maybe corrosion on the brass parts I can't see why it would fail. The switch on the other hand does move and the cam inside that switch can fail. When you push up on the connector you could be really helping the switch make contact. Wilcox has a video showing how to repair these switches.
been through this several times. Took apart the switches and did the repair. Worked for a while. Put new cheap switches in. Worked for a while. Put new good switches in and works over two years now.
From your original post, it sounded like the connector needed to be reattached to the switch. If this is the case than the friction contact or force fit of the connector onto the switch prongs is not doing its job.These connectors don't have movable parts as the switch does but the connection is totally dependent on a tight fit which you described as not there and needed re-attaching. This is a separate issue from the switch malfunctioning. Before buying a new switch, I would remove the connector and check the old one with an ohmmeter. If it works without putting pressure on it or squeezing it, try some electrical cleaner on the contacts. If the connector will not stay tight on the switch prongs, you need a new one. I soldered mine and used shrink wrap, no butt connectors.
As stated by biackbenz, if the switch needs replacing, get a good quality switch. It is very frustrating to buy a new switch and have it only last 3 months and then be back to a window that won't work.
From your original post, it sounded like the connector needed to be reattached to the switch. If this is the case than the friction contact or force fit of the connector onto the switch prongs is not doing its job.These connectors don't have movable parts as the switch does but the connection is totally dependent on a tight fit which you described as not there and needed re-attaching. This is a separate issue from the switch malfunctioning. Before buying a new switch, I would remove the connector and check the old one with an ohmmeter. If it works without putting pressure on it or squeezing it, try some electrical cleaner on the contacts. If the connector will not stay tight on the switch prongs, you need a new one. I soldered mine and used shrink wrap, no butt connectors.
As stated by biackbenz, if the switch needs replacing, get a good quality switch. It is very frustrating to buy a new switch and have it only last 3 months and then be back to a window that won't work.
Thanks! The switch works, it's just separate from the connector as you described. I'll gonna try to tighten up the fit if I can. Worst case is a new switch, which really isn't all bad..I appreciate the help!
The original wiring has ALL the power run through the switch itself was a bad design- but was probably used because it was inexpensive.
The replacement switches have no where near the current capacity of the OEM switches-I'd recommend rewiring the power windows with relays- to take the load off the power window switch-
Right side -the relays have been added- left side is OEM wiring
The original wiring has ALL the power run through the switch itself was a bad design- but was probably used because it was inexpensive.
The replacement switches have no where near the current capacity of the OEM switches-I'd recommend rewiring the power windows with relays- to take the load off the power window switch-
Right side -the relays have been added- left side is OEM wiring
thank you, good advice and the diagram is very helpful. Thanks again!
Help with power window control, 1978
