71RedRat

Starter died and time for a new one. 71 with 496, 10:1, Hedman headers. Of course heat is an issue. Dead starter had insulation wrap. First looked at Powermaster 3510 and buying heat shield. Now thinking mini starter might be way to go. Powermaster 9426 might be a good fit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...model/corvette
Hoping Milodon oil pan with kick out is not fitment issue. Would appreciate input from experience with similar set up.
Thanks

Lobzila

I had a horrible heat problem on mine with the hooker header long tube side pipes. Ended up wrapping the headers from the flange to just behind the tires. Made a huge difference in under hood heat. I would go that route as well.

71RedRat

Thanks for the input. Headers are wrapped in that area. Hard to decide if OEM style with heat shield or mini starter.

TimAT

I got one of these for my 496. Admittedly, it probably has plastic gears inside it, but it works great. And for the cost, I'm thinking it's worth it.

https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0031-l.html

pauldana

Spend the few extra bucks and get the Mallory mini starter... far better made then the e-bay mini starters, will last much much longer.. been down both paths,, Russian saying.. buy cheap, pay twice...

427Hotrod

I've had a basic Summit mini-starter on my 555" for many years. It's a Nippondenso design and can be rotated to any position. I've got a turbo a few inches from it and no issues with heat soak (starter is not wrapped). The design is very good and if you need to repair it...parts are easily available....but not likely you'll ever need it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-820323/overview/


JIM

Jebbysan

I recommend this one.....had these on three Vettes and countless customer rides. Spins it like it has no plugs in it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-5323/overview/

Jebby

71RedRat

Thanks Jebby, CVR looks like great option. I always try to read the lowest rating of reviews and found common complaint with this one to be same as other starters makes in that it does not make full contact with ring gear. Guessing that something is wrong with the install rather than starters. Could you please educate me on where they are going wrong. Thanks again.

ajrothm

gkull

I have had the higher model than Jebby. Not 1.9 hp but 3.5 or so

when I first installed it I messed with shims to get more teeth engagement. They told me that 75 % was plenty

SteveG75

I actually have the Autozone version and just had to get a free replacement after ten+ years.

The GM part # is 8000598 and the bolts are 12338064. Autozone part DLG9990S. 1995 Chevy truck (3/4 ton) with 7.4L.

zwede

I have the cheaper PowerMaster mini, it was about $130. '71 454 with headers. Starter is not wrapped. Works great, no problems, and I bumped compression to 10:1. One thing that made a huge difference in how it cranks was to replace the '71 battery cables with '72 cables. In '72 the battery cables are heavier gauge compared to earlier ones.

SteveG75

Another good upgrade. I actually replaced my battery cables (#2 gauge stock) with #1/0 gauge battery wire from West Marine. Nice and fat with very little voltage drop. Did the positive cable, all grounds, and added a terminal block near starter for the feed from my my 140Amp alternator (plus fans, MSD ignition, etc).

Here is the info I posted before.

I spent like $80 to get the thicker cable at West Marine. It is made for boats and is nice and flexible. Made 4 cables and even used the tool at West Marine to crimp the terminals.

- Positive to new terminal block ~8 feet
- Terminal block to starter ~1 foot
- Negative to frame ~2.5 feet
- Engine to frame ~.5 foot

Used 1/0 gauge wire.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ancor...04?recordNum=7

gkull

This is what I have with my 8 quart kick out oil pan

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9400/overview/make/gmc

Jebbysan

My only guess is that they are not putting it in the right holes or maybe purchasing the wrong part number.........not sure. I have personally installed it on four of my own small blocks.....and two of my big block with zero shims on any of them......crazy right?
I removed the 25 lb. turd from my 82' C-20 454 that had all kinds of problems and bolted a CVR on it out of the box, no shims and it is the best sounding starter in the world.......sounds like it was made to turn the engine over.......
Another issue people have though is brand new starters with shoddy wiring.........this is no place to have crap wiring......many cars pull power from the starter area as well as the sheer amount of amps (150 or so) when the starter is engaged............

I like the CVR because it is a derivative of the Panasonic style motors and the mount plate is spot on and you can rotate the damn thing 360 degrees as well......quality stuff for $200.

Jebby

zwede

Common misconception that the bendix gear should fully engage the ring gear. You can find videos on youtube where the starter manufacturers explain that it is only supposed to engage partially (I think they said 2/3).

I was planning to measure the gear clearance on the powermaster when I installed it, but my bell housing makes it very difficult. So I installed without shims and it worked perfectly. Very quiet.

pauldana

Backstop

That's what I got as well, maybe the Powermaster 9000 model, and it's been on there 7-8 years with no trouble. I do have it wrapped though, just in case. I imagine (if 71RedRat has header wrap already) that the starter wrap isn't be needed but I had it already and put it on there.