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In the process of setting Rear wheel alignment.
Is there a general "rule-of-thumb" regarding the rear shims?
IE: If an 1/8" shim is moved from the inside-pack to the outside-pack-
Will this increase the Toe-In an 1/8" ?
Regarding the FRONT-End Shims,
I have always used the following rule-of-thumb- to rough-in a setting.
Camber 1/16" Shim = +/ - 1/3 of a Degree
Caster 1/16" Shim = +/ - 1/2 of a Degree
Any of You Guys that have done Rear Home-Alignments may have figured this out?
Thanks for Any Suggestions
Another Rough-in check/measurement: place a straightedge against the inside of the frame on the passenger's side and measure the distance between the straightedge and the inboard side of the trailing arm near the rear edge. Write down the measurement.
Then use the same technique on the driver's side. The two measurements should be reasonably similar
what is the process for this, alignment shop first starts by making it 0 degrees toe, the adjusts to 1/8 toe in(which kicks the back of the tire out?)
Because of how shims are installed (assembly required) they should first set the thrust angle, then adjust the toe. Once the thrust angle is set you can adjust (shim) equal on both sides to maintain the thrust angle of the rear. This assumes the camber has been already been set.
Because of how shims are installed (assembly required) they should first set the thrust angle, then adjust the toe. Once the thrust angle is set you can adjust (shim) equal on both sides to maintain the thrust angle of the rear. This assumes the camber has been already been set.
I should have thought about my geometry calculation a bit more, similar triangles would suggest that the shims have proportionality to the trailing arm length divided by the tire radius.
With regard to "thrust angle" I have always set my rear toe-in in relation to the front wheels, as measured from the tire, using the string method, However my fronts and backs are always the same size, so if that is different, your statement about thrust angle is more accurate.
Also, as I half way remember, isn't the rear track slightly wider than the front track?
With regard to "thrust angle" I have always set my rear toe-in in relation to the front wheels, as measured from the tire, using the string method,
Also, as I half way remember, isn't the rear track slightly wider than the front track?
Yes the rear track width is wider, but how you setup rear thrust doesn't matter as long as each side is the same.
eg when I measure rear thrust from the picture. I have a laser mounted to the rear wheel. It might be toe out or toe in, I don't care. I make sure left and right is the same reading. Then I setup to get the correct toe by moving equal shims width on both sides.
So I don't know how you would use strings to measure thrust, other than the string is parallel to the rear wheel and measure the distance of the string from the front hub ? Its very difficult to setup a string parallel when you only measure the distance of the wheel width and then measure 98" away from that point. eg if the string parallel is out by 1/64" (15" wheel) over a distance of 98" (wheel base) = 5/64 variance. That is poor accuracy. You need a fixed mounting on the rear wheel that extends past the front hub.
Yes the rear track width is wider, but how you setup rear thrust doesn't matter as long as each side is the same.
eg when I measure rear thrust from the picture. I have a laser mounted to the rear wheel. It might be toe out or toe in, I don't care. I make sure left and right is the same reading. Then I setup to get the correct toe by moving equal shims width on both sides.
So I don't know how you would use strings to measure thrust, other than the string is parallel to the rear wheel and measure the distance of the string from the front hub ? Its very difficult to setup a string parallel when you only measure the distance of the wheel width and then measure 98" away from that point. eg if the string parallel is out by 1/64" (15" wheel) over a distance of 98" (wheel base) = 5/64 variance. That is poor accuracy. You need a fixed mounting on the rear wheel that extends past the front hub.
Thanks. Didn't mean to imply that I measured thrust using the strings and have to admit I've never tried to measure thrust angle. Maybe someday! The thrust angle, as I understand it, is a perpendicular to a line through both rear axle centers and should align with the centerline of the car. I work till I get equal toe on both sides of the car.
Here's a link that suggests that that is all that's needed
Not to high jack the thread, but I am replacing my trailing arms as well... when I take it to the shop for the alignment, should I expect them to set a '77 to stock alignment, or should there be an 'adjustment" for the fact that I am running wider/taller tires (25560/15)?
Thanks. Didn't mean to imply that I measured thrust using the strings and have to admit I've never tried to measure thrust angle. Maybe someday! The thrust angle, as I understand it, is a perpendicular to a line through both rear axle centers and should align with the centerline of the car. I work till I get equal toe on both sides of the car.
Here's a link that suggests that that is all that's needed
I like the idea, but I would like to simulate in 3D with different track widths and different tires front & rear to see how the measurements are effected. But if everything is the same I don't see why this wouldn't be a good method using strings.