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The side marker bulbs are in there, I cant remember if they were working or not, i'll take a look today. Hopefully the bulbs are just inserted backwards and its an easy fix. I'll update once I get home.
Again, try it without. The side marker bulbs can cause an interaction between the running lights and signal lights.
This might not be your issue but it's something to consider:
Here is what I use. Never failed me yet.
I just don't get the fascination with LED's. So they illuminate a few milliseconds faster and are a little brighter that incandescent........big deal. It's just not worth the frustration. I can find a hundred things that I'd rather get frustrated with and spend money on my car than LED's.
With that said I hope you fix your issue.
The LED lights aren't just a little brighter, they are a LOT brighter so making it much more visible from the rear making your car safer. They also take a lot less current to run, also a big benefit.
The video is showing how a 3 prong flasher works. Our C3's use a 2 prong which does not ground out a terminal. Irrelevant for our cars.
I hate to be a smart *** but why not avoid the problem altogether by simply not using LEDs in a car whose electrical system and fixtures are designed for incandescent?
I can almost always spot LEDs in cars with fixtures that weren't designed for them because the color is off, they are too bright or, most often, the light dispersion is terribly uneven and/or limited. It is for this very reason that they are illegal in most circumstances as they are not DOT certified. Never forget that the characteristics of the lamp are the greatest factor in designing the enclosure and that incandescent and LED have VASTLY different characteristics!
If you want to make meaningful exterior lighting modifications add a high-mount brake light and daytime running lights. LEDs used in the below.
Old car flashers use amps times time to flash. Hook a traier up they flash too fast cuz extra bulbs use more amps. LED use mucho less power so flasger will be very slow if flashes at all. Usually if brakes make running lighfs light, the running lights are providing the return path for the power thru the brake lights. Both filaments share ground in bulb body. LED, being diodes and not allowing backward current flow? I would think that wouldnt happen.
This might not be your issue but it's something to consider:
Here is what I use. Never failed me yet.
I just don't get the fascination with LED's. So they illuminate a few milliseconds faster and are a little brighter that incandescent........big deal. It's just not worth the frustration. I can find a hundred things that I'd rather get frustrated with and spend money on my car than LED's.
With that said I hope you fix your issue.
I had similar issues with my LED conversion and the blinkers; my super easy hack was to just leave ONE incandescent bulb per side in the car. Everything works perfectly with one incandescent bulb per side.
First of all if you are going to mod your car- Do it right. Do the research. Buy the good stuff.
Doing it right is usually not the quickest - easiest OR least expensive.
As other have said- incandescents flow current either way- LED's do not.
LED's do NOT pull a bunch of current required to trigger the old electro-mechanical flashers-
Both are relatively simple to work around.
Running LEDs- might keep you from getting rearended or sideswiped -won't wipe your battery out if you leave the door open - won't be burned when you hit the courtesy light reaching under the dash- and will probably out live you.
Sorry for the rant...but I love MY LEDs on my cars- shop lights- flashlights-house!!!
