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Other than the IGN terminal (as I understand) on the fuseblock.
It's a 1968 FAST EZ-EFI 2.0, and I'm cleaning up wiring, and I want to wire in a little more securely so I'm looking for a place to tap into that provides power in START & RUN.
The wire to the coil would be one place. Not sure if you are still using it. If not you could replace the resistor wire with another so you get the full 12v. There is also the pink wire to the reverse light switch on the transmission.
I have the AIM diagram. I could try the wiper motor yellow.
Meanwhile, is the "resistance" wire the wire labeled 20 W/R/B? Looks like it changes color to 12 P (pink) at the bulkhead(?) on the way to the ignition switch from the coil?
If the 12-P at the ignition switch is what ties into the resistance lead, then perhaps I can tap at the ignition switch (or at the 12 P lead) since I have the dash out?
Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
Correct, the yellow wire powering the wiper motor on a 68 is always suggested. Do you have a good wiring diagram?
I have the AIM diagram. I could try the wiper motor yellow.
Meanwhile, is the "resistance" wire the wire labeled 20 W/R/B? Looks like it changes color to 12 P (pink) at the bulkhead(?) on the way to the ignition switch from the coil?
If the 12-P at the ignition switch is what ties into the resistance lead, then perhaps I can tap at the ignition switch (or at the 12 P lead) since I have the dash out?
The resistance wire does tap into the pink wire. That is why I suggested using it. You could also just replace the resistance wire with something like this to tap from. https://www.lectriclimited.com/h-e-i-conversion-harness
Or you could get some Packard 56 terminals and make your own replacement wire.
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I dont think that wire has power to it while cranking, theres a yellow wire from the R solenoid wire on the starter that gives the coil power while cranking.
I dont think that wire has power to it while cranking, theres a yellow wire from the R solenoid wire on the starter that gives the coil power while cranking.
The resistance wire has power when cranking. The reason for the wire from the starter is to give 12V to the distributor/coil when cranking. The resistance wire only provides around 9V due to its built in resistance.
Nothing really. But I have like 3 things on it. And as long as I was cleaning up wiring I thought I'd look to more securely wire.
If you're concerned about total amperage load on your "IGN" terminal, just use the "IGN" terminal to power a relay. Let the relay then provide the power to the injection system through a circuit breaker. It's a solid, reliable, secure system. You can use Summit Racing part number SUM-890023, which contains all the parts, components, wires and the wiring diagram. This is actually an electric fuel pump relay kit, but it works just great as a relay system for injection and any other components you want to power without drawing too many amps through your existing fuse box.
iagree:
I had way too much stuff running off the fuse panel so this winter I installed two relays, one for ignition (msd etc) and another for the acc/run (GPS, stereo etc) and those both feed a pair of mini fuse blocks which go off to everything else. Neater and gives the original harness a break
Thanks all...
Since I have the dash out right now I'm thinking it would be easy enough to replace (Bypass with another Lead would be relatively easy) that "resistance 20 W/R/B" lead that goes to the coil....
I'll eyeball it and see if it's easier to install relay powered from the IGN terminal or just install a BYPASS lead around the that resistor wire and just connect it to the 12 Pink that goes to ignition switch
Thanks again.
Originally Posted by Sigforty
The resistance wire does tap into the pink wire. That is why I suggested using it. You could also just replace the resistance wire with something like this to tap from. https://www.lectriclimited.com/h-e-i-conversion-harness
Or you could get some Packard 56 terminals and make your own replacement wire.
One thing you see in modern cars, even little ones, is a fusebox with a bunch of oversize fuses in the 40 to 100 amp range. The resistance wire runs your points. Cant replace unless distrib is modernized. The R terminal has unresisted power to coil and points cuz starter voltage drop makes spark thru resist wire too weak to start a cranking motor reliably.
When added fuel injection - I went right to the ignition switch and used it to control various relays for all the new stuff I added. I used a combo relay socket and fuse holder- and for the fuses I used the ones that light up when they blow. A BIG help when you are trying to troubleshoot!!! Also used a Hella timed relay- have it set so 10seconds after start the fans and/or AC will kick on. Sort of like a soft start on new cars. And another Hella relay that would run my power windows and lights for about 2 minutes after I shut the car down.
The other thing to look at- is a Ford inertia/roll-over switch - wire it to kill the fuel pump just in case something happens- very inexpensive insurance!!!
Last edited by Richard454; 07-19-2018 at 10:38 PM.
Hmmm.... Pink wire to backup lamps, eh? This sounds interesting since it feeds the directional signal flashers also --- I did not realize that they would work in the "start" mode.
Originally Posted by Sigforty
The wire to the coil would be one place. Not sure if you are still using it. If not you could replace the resistor wire with another so you get the full 12v. There is also the pink wire to the reverse light switch on the transmission.
Hmmm.... Pink wire to backup lamps, eh? This sounds interesting since it feeds the directional signal flashers also --- I did not realize that they would work in the "start" mode.
Yep, that pink wire goes to the IGN terminal in the fuse box. It also runs back to the pink wire on the ignition switch, which also feeds the resistor wire.
07-18-2018, 01:40 PM
Where can I get power in START & RUN?
