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I've been on here before and received good advise about a few things. Well guys here is another. I put a new compressor, drier, and valve on the car and had it charged. It cools only about twenty degrees below ambient temps. When I drive the car with outside temps are in the low 90's the best it will cool is 68. Works okay for me but the temp gauge rises to 210 and a little higher before I have driven twenty miles. Shut the ac off and the temp slowly drops. I put the timing light to it and a vacuum gauge so I know I'm pretty darn close to spot on timing. My rochester carb and I don't seem to adjust well together but not sure about that being the issue. I think the condenser and accumulator will get changed this winter. In the meantime any ideas that might help me drop the temp with the ac on? The car has the original 327 matched to a TH400 runs 70mph at 2500 rpms.
Not much to go on as far as existing conditions, but all the standard stuff applies here. Make sure you have a fan shroud in place and in good working order. Make sure all the seals around the radiator are in good working condition. Ensure the radiator does not need to be cleaned and is not plugged either on the inside or outside. Make sure your fan and fan clutch are in good working order. If all of these check out, likely it is time to look at a replacement or hot dipping your existing radiator.
Rookie suggestions: Buy one of those "pocket thermometers" that HVAC techs keep in their shirt pocket. Place it in the a/c vent where you can read the dial easily. In 95*F ambient temp. my a/c cools the inside air to 58*F, but the compressor is 13 years old. I would think a new system would produce air in the low 50*'s on a 95*F day (high 50*'s in stop n go traffic).
If your system isn't working correctly the condenser that fits in front of the radiator will get so hot that the radiator can't get enough ambient air to cool the engine properly.
You can't trust the stock heater shut-off valve. It runs off vacuum, sticks open or sticks closed, just bad all around. So, by installing an aftermarket shut-off, its guaranteed to keep the hot coolant out of the heater core, thereby keeping the cabin cooler.
You only need one, only need to do one hose. NAPA has them in 5/8 or maybe 3/4 hose ports. Its around $24. Its a brass screw-in type valve. You can close it part way in the Spring & Autumn, or close completely in the summer. You can hide it down by the original valve by splicing into one of the two hoses.
without knowing your thermostat it is impossible to tell you, if your running to hot.
it sounds like your heat load is greater than your capacity at this time, temp. drops when you turn
A/C off. as a general rule i like to go with 10-15 degrees maximuim above your thermostat.
if everything is working properly, so if you have 160 stat and your running 210,
your cooling capacity is insufficient in my opinion.
this can be for many reasons. possible time to recore, or replace radiator.
I run a 160 stat on BB, temp. sits rock solid on 165, after a hard run max. about 175.
forgot to mention, a very common problem is someone has changed the sending unit at the parts store,
and you no longer have the original correct sending unit.
even if you asked for the correct year, and they give you the correct part ..... it is still most often incorrect.
To diagnose temperature problems, you must first verify your Temperature gauge is correct.
your sending unit, in Boiling water test is the easiest verification method 212 degrees.