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After seeing your photo....I am of the belief that your front clip is the problem and not the doors/hinges. Some adjustment can be done to the doors but they are NOT going to close up that gap on the right side...but from what I can see it appears the door can afford to go UP at the front.
I am suspect that this car has been hit and the fender /top hood surround on the right side was not set down as far as it could have gone. Something looks off in the yellow circle in the photo below
I am suspect that this car has been hit and the fender /top hood surround on the right side was not set down as far as it could have gone.
I think you might be right, it does look like someone has tried to make a fix in the wheel well in the front passenger side. I will send more pictures as soon as I can, thanks for all the Help!
isn't the hinge pin/bushings because the gap is not symmetrical, on a pin issue the gap is on one side and the other side is too narrow, this looks more like its in the body alignment, as if the front clip was removed and reinstalled without the proper shims, if the car drives straight and handles well im guessing the clip shims need to be replaced/installed. the only concern I have is that the top by the handle is not aligned, if it were just front clip the door spacing to the rear would be fine and only the front would be off, overall it doesn't look un repairable, worst case would need to straighten the frame with a ram, best case a few shims, possible theres more then one issue but going by the photos it doesn't look unfixable. the op suggestion about the sealant is also a very good point, expanding sealant would cause the front clip shims to slide out of alignment as for the wheel well question is if were looking at the front clip body side or the inside of the well, if that is a cut and patch they did a remarkable job in smoothing, it looks more as if the fiberglass casting was touched up before it got its first coat of paint.
The back of your door looks fairly decent and no obvious problems there of any major magnitude.
IF the door edge of your door is following the top edge of your rocker panel...which is affixed position panel.. Then from what I see is an issue in the front clip.
Trying tor raise the door up that little bit top get the edge of the bottom of the door to be level with the fender is not going to close up that gap at the top of the door that much.
So..I would NEXT look at the bolts that hold on the door and then remove the kick plate and see if anyone has messed with the bolts that hold the hinge to the hinge post.
If they all seem like they have not been messed with....especially the ones that hold the hinge to the hinge post. Then as I suspected...the front clip has an issue and it will take a lot of work to correct this problem. Just saying that because I have had to deal with that on many Corvettes.
So here are a few pictures of my 69 before I removed the clip. Notice where the eyebrow trim piece is higer then the door trim. Should be close to even. The gap at the top of the door is also wide like yours. Hard to tell from the angle but you can see under the edge of the clip. This was an Eckler clip put on by a shop who was not paying attention. Yours shows it higher then the door and should be even since you have a long hood and no eyebrow trim. The fit of the clip at the door was set to high. Reason, who knows but it's wrong. It took me a number of times to fit the original clip and I was by myself. Takes time to do it right. There are just to many variables that can go wrong. The last picture shows the final fit before final set.
im doing it wrong? ive been storing the car on 4 jackstands every winter raisng the car just enougn to take some weight and leaving the tires touching. is there a better way? I looked under the nose of my 81 and even if I had enough room in the tiny winter stall for a jack to reach under the nose I did not see this lift point u talked about.
Yes, you're not supporting it correctly for the long term.
Notice that the nose locations are not for lifting but they are for jack stands. Use those and the rear lift points for your winter storage.
The diagram above is all well and good for a coupe. .But if it is a convertible I would not do it this way due to all the stress the rear clip is having be put on it due to no support after the #3 body mount area.
This is when I take off the wheels and put the jack stand UNDER the wide area of the rotors so the car is resting as it would IF it had wheels on it.
So I seem to use the method I described by putting jack stands under the rotors and that has never caused me any issues on all of the Corvettes I have worked on in all different stages of quality. From those that are rust buckets and those that seem to have never been driven in the rain.
