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Master cylinder bleeding.

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Old Aug 16, 2018 | 09:49 PM
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Default Master cylinder bleeding.

Is it really necessary to remove a master cylinder from the car to bleed it? After you install the bleeder kit what difference does it make how you actuat the piston with the petal or on the bench with a screw driver?
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Old Aug 17, 2018 | 05:38 AM
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it doesnt as long as you can run 2 lines back into the reservoir so you're not pumping the air into your system rather than spraying it onto your car
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Old Aug 17, 2018 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Roadster71
Is it really necessary to remove a master cylinder from the car to bleed it? After you install the bleeder kit what difference does it make how you actuat the piston with the petal or on the bench with a screw driver?
Thanks
Tilting the master cylinder forward and rearward while bleeding is essential to get all of the air out.
This can't be done on the vehicle.

Craig
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Old Aug 17, 2018 | 09:21 AM
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Street Rat is correct. Its all about the angle of the MC to get the last of the bubbles out. Which is impossible on the level unless a Motive Bleeder is used, some say. They get trapped under the reservoir.
Check out my profile-photo album-brake bleeding.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 17, 2018 at 09:23 AM.
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Old Aug 17, 2018 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Street Rat is correct. Its all about the angle of the MC to get the last of the bubbles out. Which is impossible on the level unless a Motive Bleeder is used, some say. They get trapped under the reservoir.
Check out my profile-photo album-brake bleeding.
Makes sense.
Thanks,
Bob
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Old Aug 17, 2018 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Roadster71
Is it really necessary to remove a master cylinder from the car to bleed it? After you install the bleeder kit what difference does it make how you actuat the piston with the petal or on the bench with a screw driver?
Thanks
It depends on how much air you sucked into it.

If you just over bled the brake caliper and sucked the reservoir dry and got a little air in, you can do it on the car without even cracking a line.
I have bled them on the car, just by working the pedal back and forth.
What you are doing is pushing the piston back and forth past the compensation port.
Each time you do this, you purge a little air and fluid back into the reservoir.
Do it enough times, and you get the air out of the master.
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Old Aug 17, 2018 | 05:13 PM
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Keep in mind Roadster, that removal of the master will be the easiest task on the entire C3 brake system jobs you will ever do. Trust me !
Two mounting nuts, two brakelines. = two minutes.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 17, 2018 at 05:14 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2018 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Keep in mind Roadster, that removal of the master will be the easiest task on the entire C3 brake system jobs you will ever do. Trust me !
Two mounting nuts, two brakelines. = two minutes.
A little clarification on my part. This was more of a general automotive question and not c3 vette specific. I'm trying to get a better pedal on my PU after replacing leaking wheel cylinders.

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Old Aug 18, 2018 | 09:02 AM
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Oh. I wish you had not reported that part about the pickup. Now your question will be charged accordingly: EXTRA!

General C3 questions $119
All others: $219.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 18, 2018 at 09:04 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2018 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Roadster71
A little clarification on my part. This was more of a general automotive question and not c3 vette specific. I'm trying to get a better pedal on my PU after replacing leaking wheel cylinders.
Drum brakes?
Is so make sure they are bedded in , and adjust the star wheel for a little drag.
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Old Aug 20, 2018 | 12:36 AM
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If you have a "working" M/C and the fluid wells did not go dry, you should not have to re-bleed the M/C. If the connection points were not capped and the fluid drained out, you WILL need to bleed the M/C first.
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