So I have a throttle body EFI kit on the way, purchased used from a forum member. It is the Fast EZ-EFI.

I'm (now) adequate at carb tuning and operation thanks to Lars and Cliff Ruggles, but I'm a bit of a novice on EFI. I understand the basics and will probably figure most out as I go. But a couple initial questions:

I already have an AEM Wideband 02 setup, this EFI uses the wideband 02 sensor to read and make fueling adjustments. Will I not be able to use my AEM gauge anymore since the 02 sensor will now plug into the EFI ECU? OR is there a way to make it send to two sources?

Second question is very similar, regarding the coolant temp sensor. I have an electronic coolant temp sensor in my intake manifold currently which is what my gauge reads off of. This EFI kit uses a coolant temp sensor with a different style plug on it. Is there a way for me to have this temp sender send to my gauge and to the EFI so I can still monitor my temps? Or do I need to install a second coolant temp sensor (like in the head?).

Final question is on the fuel lines. I am planning to run an in-line electric fuel pump. My plan is to cut/flare the stock feed line to install the pump and filter near the tank and run the stock hard line up to the front of the engine. Then use a SS braided line from the hard line to the Throttle Body. Then for the return line, a reducer (I believe the return is a 3/8 line on the EFI and my stock return is only 1/4") to a SS braided line back down to the stock return line.

Any problems with that for a simple fuel setup?

Thanks

 

The kit will come with it's own O2 sensor so install a second sensor bung and use it.
You will have to install a second temperature sensor.
1/4" is too small for the return line.

 

Ok, I'm assuming the display on the FAST EZ will display real time A/F? If so, I may consider selling my AEM wideband setup to recoup some of the cost. It would be nice to have dual-bank 02 sensors, but also may not do much for me.

Darn, I'll have to mosey around and see where I can install one. If I remember right, my Brodix heads don't have a threaded port to install one. May have to get one of those water necks that has a temp sensor port built in. Wish I could just run the one, less engine bay wiring.

Ok, so 3/8ths for the return line? I've seen a few people on the forum post that they were using the stock return line on their EFI. On the FAST setup, it looks like you run the return line from the TB to the Regulator, and then from the regulator to the tank. So the portion that would be 1/4" is from the Reg to the tank.

Thanks for the help.

 

You could run a fresh supply line and then use your original supply as the return for the EFI. Either way you are running a new line, but your high pressure side would be all new that way.

 

Here is my setup using a Sniper EFI installed about a year ago.I have two 02 sensors one in each bank.Two water temp sensors one mounted in the head for the
EFI and one in the intake manifold for the temp gauge.My fuel system is using a Robbmc power surge tank fed by the mechanical pump ,no need to mess with the existing fuel system and super ez to go back to stock if needed.I don't know about the FAST system but the Sniper still needed a laptop to fine tune it and get sum bugs worked out.The idle and drive ability is outstanding with the EFI controlling the timing..Vette starts right up idles perfectly no more stinky fumes !

 

Does the Sniper have inputs for dual O2 sensors?

 

 

 

Great info iokepakai. Did you get rid of the charcoal canister and placed the powersurge tank in its place? Thanks!

 

Thanks for the info guys.

I won't be doing a surge tank since this is a budget install.

I will probably go with BigBlock77's idea of using the current feed line as the return and then running a fresh feed line. I would like to go with hardline for most of the way if possible, with either SS braided or FI hose for the connections.

One more question, do I need to be running a different spark plug/gap with EFI? My heads (Brodix IK200) recommend Champion RN12yc . Does EFI want a different heat range or plug gap, or do I just run what I have been running?

 

My responses in red below. I'm running EZ-EFI 2.0 to control a Ramjet 350.

 

You could get a $50 tank off Ebay and run it as a surge tank with the external pump feeding from it and the return line going back to it. Cap the return port on the existing mechanical fuel pump. Feed the mechanical pump into this tank and take a line off the top back to the return line. You might be able to leave the return port on the pump connected and just T into it, but I'm not sure if that would work or not. The idea is to push any air out of the top of the surge tank and back to the main tank and the pump may put pressure there that stops the air being purged.

or

Use copper-nickel tubing to make a new return line since it's easy to work with.

 

Good thoughts! I'd like to avoid the surge tank setup.

Is the copper nickel tubing significantly different than normal brake line tubing?

 

It's DOT approved for brake line use. It's just much easier to work with compared to steel and won't rust.

 

Yup no more charcoal can ,was long gone when I bought the car.I have the CD box in that location and the surge tank on the pass side.Installed a new tank & sending unit a couple years back so I didn't want to mess with it again.Went with the surge tank to eliminate any possibility of fuel starvation at low tank levels and spirited driving on those curvy roads we have here, just have to dodge those pesky mongoose and dumb *** Turkeys! ...Next project is to install the AC system sitting in the box here at home, just need the Time! Alohas...

 

I like the idea of using a stand-alone AFR gauge in place of the crappy clock for dual bank readings... I've been annoyed by Holley not supporting reading from 2 O2 sensors, even in the HP series and this is an interesting workaround I hadn't considered...

Adam

 

Did you mean DOT approved for FUEL LINE use? I might have phrased my question wrong. I see some people use 3/8 brake line for fuel injection hardline, is the reason to use copper nickel tubing instead of steel brake line just because it is corrosion resistant?

And on that note, where do you buy it and does it just use normal brake compression fittings? As in, do you use a tubing bender and compression tool to make flares and then use a threaded compression fitting to connect it?

 

You can use it just like steel line. For fuel use, you could use flared fittings or compression fittings. You could also just use a single flare instead of double flaring it. I tend to use compression fittings for fuel lines since they are simpler and quicker to use, just put over the cut end and tighten the nut.

I did mean DOT approved for brake line use, which is a more difficult application then fuel lines. You'd use it because it is easier to bend and route and terminate. You can get it online (Amazon) or at any decent parts store.

 

Sweet, so I'm thinking I'll use that hardline for as much as possible. My other question is what do you use to transition from the hardline to a FI hose or AN fitting? My plan would be to run hardline along the frame and then use a flexible SS braided hose or FI hose for the connection to the Throttle body. I'm guessing they make an adapter that goes from 3/8 hardline compression fitting to AN -6 or to a hose barb, but I'm not sure what to search for (sorry for the novice question).

 

I tend to scrounge GM parts and use them, so I would be using the GM quick connect fittings. But yes, they do make fittings you just have to find them. Try "3/8" hardline to AN adapter" as the Google search term.

Edit - personally, I wouldn't use hose barbs and rubber hose for high pressure fuel line. Don't use rubber braided hose either, stick with teflon or something else similar.