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In the process of removing my rear suspension/ trailing arms I noticed this rust on the edge of the frame pocket for the trailing arms and am trying to figure out the best way to neutralize it before it can cause more damage to the frame. Thanks for any advice!
Go here, use this stuff: https://www.por15.com/ word of warning, there is *no* chemical cleaner that will remove it once it's dried. It's extremely tough, easy to brush on if you don't want to spray.
I would start with a wire wheel with a drill 1st to clean it up. Spay it with Ospho to convert the rust, then apply an rust encapsulator.
Then top coat it with VHT Chassis paint.
X2!!
If you don't clean the area to bare metal as best possible, convert the rust that remains to stop it and then encapsulate it, the metal will continue to rust no matter what you top coat it with.
looks like that rust is "growing" between two overlapping steel plates , wire brushing or chemicals wont get to 98% of it so it will just keep growing.
Looks like I've got lots of good options to go with. I've heard of por15 so it looks like I'll clean and treat the rust the best I can and then paint over it with something like por15. Thanks for all the good suggestion everyone!
looks like that rust is "growing" between two overlapping steel plates , wire brushing or chemicals wont get to 98% of it so it will just keep growing.
Since you can't get the areas between the plates, using some ingenuity (and some plastic containers, glazing compound caulking etc) you can create a cofferdam to hold the liquid (evapo-rust or what ever else) you use to neutralize the rust to allow the liquid to seep in to the joint. Use the putty and/or caulking (I like pheno-seal) to seal the joint between the container and the frame. The putty can also be shaped to create a dam or lip if you need one. Keep the container/dammed area full (so the rust area is covered )until the level stops dropping or it runs out (if you can reach where it leaks use some putty to stop it so the liquid can be absorbed in to the joint to allow as much liquid as possible to penetrate the joint and convert the rust. Not perfect but it should slow down some of the rusting a bit. Tim
I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix with 215,000 miles on it, owned since new, and driven in NewEngland Winters on roads loaded with salt and the rockers have been rusting for the last 10 years. I am shocked at how I have been able to considerably slow the rust just by treating the rockers externally and partially internally using POR15 or Eastwood Rust encapsulator. You can slow rust MUCH even when you cannot get to all of it....I mean a lot BTW.
Since you can't get the areas between the plates, using some ingenuity (and some plastic containers, glazing compound caulking etc) you can create a cofferdam to hold the liquid (evapo-rust or what ever else) you use to neutralize the rust to allow the liquid to seep in to the joint. Use the putty and/or caulking (I like pheno-seal) to seal the joint between the container and the frame. The putty can also be shaped to create a dam or lip if you need one. Keep the container/dammed area full (so the rust area is covered )until the level stops dropping or it runs out (if you can reach where it leaks use some putty to stop it so the liquid can be absorbed in to the joint to allow as much liquid as possible to penetrate the joint and convert the rust. Not perfect but it should slow down some of the rusting a bit. Tim
I had a similar situation on an old landruiser, I got a drill and drilled into the rust "pocket" which broke it up and then used ol d scrapers and screw drivers to chew out as much as I could out. Then treated what was left.
No rust paint will do anything to help stop rust between layers of metal like that. I'd also suggest trying to break up that rust blob and removing it. Then, I would also suggest soaking the newly exposed surfaces in a rust removing liquid to get rid of as much remaining rust before coating it.
If you really wanted it clean then setup a container (small pool) under the area with a pump to flow rush remover over the area until clean metal remains.
I've tried POR15 a number of times and found it to be next to useless. Any other paint would work about as well.
I used POR a few times mixed results, i dont find it "epic" and have seen where if it does get a nick or "hole" in it rust will grow between it and the metal and it comes off in a sheet.
Seen that on a few cases...
If i had a place that i couldnt get at all the rust i would use Ospho, it will sweep into tight places and neutralizes the rust then paint it with a good rust paint,
Likely will last longer than me....
As said before, you have to get the rust out. If you can tap on it with a hammer or chisel out the worst of it, then use a hand held sand blaster ( harbor freight $20) and blast down to good metal then rust converter and/ or whatever miracle coating would work. Rust sux, Good luck with the never ending battle.
I used POR a few times mixed results, i dont find it "epic" and have seen where if it does get a nick or "hole" in it rust will grow between it and the metal and it comes off in a sheet.
Seen that on a few cases...
If i had a place that i couldnt get at all the rust i would use Ospho, it will sweep into tight places and neutralizes the rust then paint it with a good rust paint,
Likely will last longer than me....
Same here, rusts underneath then eventually comes off in a big piece. Next to useless against rust.
Ospho works well, but it won't penetrate that glob of rust unless it soaked for quite a while.
In my example above in Post #9, I did use POR 15 as well with mixed results as reported by others BUT it did slow the rust down and I did have to apply a new coat 1X per year. I switched recently to the Eastwood Internal Chassis coating and this stuff is like Titanium on rust. I have not had any rust spread or flake off with the eastwood coating. Some Eastwood coating dripped onto my bar top driveway last year and once this material dries it will NOT come up, even on a black exposed to al kinds of temperatures and weather.......
Go here, use this stuff: https://www.por15.com/ word of warning, there is *no* chemical cleaner that will remove it once it's dried. It's extremely tough, easy to brush on if you don't want to spray.
You will be surprised at, how fast brake fluid will remove it .
How to neutralize this frame rust?
