Replace Fusable link- still no interior power
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 106
From: laingsburg MI
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Replace Fusable link- still no interior power
Idiot moment and hooked the battery charger up backwards. Fusable links by fire wall didn’t last too long- engine died. I replaced the link. Starter works and cranks engine, but there is no power to the interior/ fuse panel. What am I missing?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 106
From: laingsburg MI
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Replaced this Fusable link and a 100 amp fuse I have for a terminal that I run accessories off from. Everything worked for a minute, then smoked something along the fire wall/ bell housing. What does power supply via Fusable link? Pics below
Pro
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 729
Likes: 118
From: Kelowna British Columbia
fusible link
The picture you show of the 2 red wires one comes from the solenoid and it goes to horn relay. The black wire goes to the ammeter. Fusible links can be bought at NAPA or auto store.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: South Western Ontario
The car will still work without that link.
Cut that link out for now (leave the red wires connected together) and insulate the red wires so they won't short to anything. Disconnect the black/white striped wire with the fusible link from the horn relay to completely disconnect the ammeter for now. You can fix the ammeter after you get the electrical working again.
I'd also disconnect the wires from the alternator, making sure to insulate the main red wire. Just in case the alternator is shorted.
Once the ammeter is disconnected, try connecting the battery again and see what you get. Check for voltage at the horn relay. No voltage there, check at that splice where you cut off the fusible link for the ammeter. If there is voltage there, check the fusible links coming from the horn relay.
Cut that link out for now (leave the red wires connected together) and insulate the red wires so they won't short to anything. Disconnect the black/white striped wire with the fusible link from the horn relay to completely disconnect the ammeter for now. You can fix the ammeter after you get the electrical working again.
I'd also disconnect the wires from the alternator, making sure to insulate the main red wire. Just in case the alternator is shorted.
Once the ammeter is disconnected, try connecting the battery again and see what you get. Check for voltage at the horn relay. No voltage there, check at that splice where you cut off the fusible link for the ammeter. If there is voltage there, check the fusible links coming from the horn relay.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,131
Likes: 106
From: laingsburg MI
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Thank you for the assistance! Ok what I found is: Fusable link by horn relay was fried AND an accessory “hot” wire that powers the fast idle solenoid had melted insulation and was creating a ground. This was below the area of the fried Fusable link on the fire wall, so it was hard to find. I had already replaced that Fusable link, still no power. So I removed the solenoid circuit and replaced the blown Fusable link by the horn relay, with a “blade fuse” (40 amp) I had available, everything works as it should. Question- can I leave the inline fuse instead of a Fusable link? And if so, what should the amp rating be? Again much thanks for all the help. Jim
Last edited by 73C34me; Sep 4, 2018 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Info