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Well this is kind of a left field question because I know zip about big blocks, but small blocks have a threaded hole where a bolt can secure the pushrod from sliding out while you install the fuel pump. Big blocks, I dunno.
If the pushrod is as bad as you say, you are probably screwed anyway with a mechanical pump. Your cam could well be stripped.
No such bolt on BBs I can't make it any worse by installing electric pump. Always can go back and restore fuel pump and rod in the future.
Sorry op I’m too literal for most folks. When I read “GET THE CAR RUNNING”’ all in caps followed up by “for now” I took you at your word. Best of luck with your proper yet temporary elec fuel system install.
That is why I was saying replace pump with a block off plate or cut off the arm that rides in the pushrod. Let rod push away from the cam and stay there.
"Moves with force with wooden dowel and tapping " When I removed my mechanical pump, the pushrod moved freely enough to just pull it out when it was in the lowest position. Yours sounds like it is bent. Have you tried to pull it with a magnet? If you can get it to the down position you can pull it out and install a new pushrod and use a mechanical pump.
"Moves with force with wooden dowel and tapping " When I removed my mechanical pump, the pushrod moved freely enough to just pull it out when it was in the lowest position. Yours sounds like it is bent. Have you tried to pull it with a magnet? If you can get it to the down position you can pull it out and install a new pushrod and use a mechanical pump.
In my original post( please review) I wrote how I may have ham handedly bent or scored the rod. I've tried everything to get the rod out Magnets,tapping again and again with dowel,prying with screw drivers, Liquid wrench soaking for days. On and on with no luck. It moves with force but will never be right. So its on to electric. No loss, as install can be removed and corrected to original mech pump in the future. Perhaps just running the motor may free it up with time (heat expansion in the block) Motor is very fresh but in storage many years.
Many thanks,
I've been running a Carter P4070 electric fuel pump mounted at the passengers side rear near the fuel tank for the past 10 years with no complaints. The pump is inexpensive, reliable, has an internal regulator and comes with a mounting braket.
Great job Did you fabricate the steel bracket? How did you route the positive back to the fuse box?
Sw
Nothing wrong with going to an electric fuel pump. Just use the new style pumps that are quiet and reliable, it'll be fine. I also mushroomed a bronze fuel pump rod and could NOT get it out, that also prompted me to go electric...(that and my mechanical 172 race pump wouldn't keep up anymore)…
Anyway, here is how I did mine, this setup would likely be over kill for you but, it'll give you some ideas. This is on a 71' 454.
1/8" steel bracket welded to the factory gas tank bracket.
This is the Holley Dominator twin pump setup. One pump runs with the "key on" that I use full time. The second pump I have on a toggle switch and its just a back up incase the first pump craps out. The pump is dead quiet and does not over heat the fuel.
You could build something similar using a single pump and it would still be plenty of fuel and reliable...
I've been running a Carter P4070 electric fuel pump mounted at the passengers side rear near the fuel tank for the past 10 years with no complaints. The pump is inexpensive, reliable, has an internal regulator and comes with a mounting braket.
So where does the fuel return line go? My electric pump has 2 ports 1 in 1 out No place for a return to tank line like the original mech pump.
So that means your electric pump does not have or need a return, assuming it does not require a regulator.
just cap off the factory return line to keep trash out of it.
post up which pump you have and we can tell you for sure. A lot of inline electric pumps do not use returns.
I've been running a Carter P4070 electric fuel pump mounted at the passengers side rear near the fuel tank for the past 10 years with no complaints. The pump is inexpensive, reliable, has an internal regulator and comes with a mounting braket.
My planned install exactly,close to the tank and not over mufflers or exhaust. Any more shots of your install? fabricated bracket? Where did the original return to tank line from the mech. pump go. What size and routing for the positive wire. Yours looks like a Carter P4070 same as mine They have an internal regulator so an external reg is not needed? on a 454 as well?
Well done and thanks,
SW
Where did the original return to tank line from the mech. pump go? SW
How is it my picture didn't answer that question? I think you really meant to say "where does the original return line come from?". The return on the original cars (my 69) was essentially to allow a port back to the tank to prevent vapor lock. The factory sourced a GF432 filter with an outlet that returned vapors to the tank. It was mounted near the carb, I am sure you can find pictures of that here. I don't see any reason why you wouldn't use it rather than dead head to the carb.
So that means your electric pump does not have or need a return, assuming it does not require a regulator.
just cap off the factory return line to keep trash out of it.
post up which pump you have and we can tell you for sure. A lot of inline electric pumps do not use returns.
Carter P4070 Just a relay is needed for safety? what gauge wire for positive ? Inline filter, tank to electric pump?
Many thanks,
SW
I used 10 ga wire which is probably over kill and a Cole hersee 24059 constant duty solenoid for my relay on my 4070 Carter pump. Have used the 4070 on 2 vehicles and never a problem. Also use a Ford inertia switch for safety.
My planned install exactly,close to the tank and not over mufflers or exhaust. Any more shots of your install? fabricated bracket? Where did the original return to tank line from the mech. pump go. What size and routing for the positive wire. Yours looks like a Carter P4070 same as mine They have an internal regulator so an external reg is not needed? on a 454 as well?
Well done and thanks,
SW
The original return line is capped off and not required with the electric fuel pump. If I were to install a return line I would use the GF432 fuel filter. I'm using the Carter P4070, which has an internal regulator and no external is required. The P4070 should work just great with a 454, mine is installed on a L-46 (350ci-350hp). The mount is a flat bar with two holes drilled in it welded to the cross member support at the rear of the fuel tank, could have also done it with an angle with holes drilled and bolted it. I could probably have mounted it a dozen other ways as the mount that comes with the P4070 is pretty versatile.
Carter P4070 Just a relay is needed for safety? what gauge wire for positive ? Inline filter, tank to electric pump?
Many thanks,
SW
I don't have any additional relays or kill switches for safety.... I just have normal fuel pump relays that wire to the ignition.... I'll take my chances...
Need some input with photos please. VERY low mile (500 or so) rebuilt 454 Car in storage many years but motor is clean no sludge. Tried to install new stock fuel pump 2 times, but the pump rod is stuck(I've most likely jammed the pump against the rod and bent or galled it) It does move with force but will never be right without removal at least. Tried many ways to remove but no luck. I'm going to go electric to GET THE CAR RUNNING! for now Photos and descriptions of installs would be appreciated I've seen some pretty clean jobs (fabricating brackets even)mounting at the rear of the gas tank on the frame.Also what type of pump and some wiring tips as to safety shut off and such.
Thanks for any help,
SW
Thanks to all members for their help and esp. photos I I've got it figured out and will post pictures of my special bracket and the completed install when complete.
