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Need some input with photos please. VERY low mile (500 or so) rebuilt 454 Car in storage many years but motor is clean no sludge. Tried to install new stock fuel pump 2 times, but the pump rod is stuck(I've most likely jammed the pump against the rod and bent or galled it) It does move with force but will never be right without removal at least. Tried many ways to remove but no luck. I'm going to go electric to GET THE CAR RUNNING! for now Photos and descriptions of installs would be appreciated I've seen some pretty clean jobs (fabricating brackets even)mounting at the rear of the gas tank on the frame.Also what type of pump and some wiring tips as to safety shut off and such.
Thanks for any help,
SW
holley red or equiv is self regulating to about 6 psi. take off the fuel pump and put a plate over it or cut off the arm that rides on the cam and reinstall pump for a block-off plate. they push better than they pull fuel. at the tank is preferable. make sure pump is not mounted above the exhaust. if it leaks you want to make a mess on the road, not the 6 O:Clock news...
... they push better than they pull fuel. at the tank is preferable. make sure pump is not mounted above the exhaust. if it leaks you want to make a mess on the road, not the 6 O:Clock news...
agree, but if you are just trying to get it running, as I once did, you can mount it anywhere convenient in the engine compartment and it should work good enough to move the car around. Definitely will be noisy. do not remember quite where I hooked it up electrically but for safety's sake try to tie it to the ignition switch through a relay.
There have been a couple nice diagrams posted here bet they are posted again.
Not hip to all the new stuff but never had a failure with Carter. The Holleys make a little noise...actually they all do but was completely annoyed with mine.
There is a little 50 buck carb vane pump like a mini Holley available at big chain auto parts stores. But unless you are gonna pull the cam and find a way to force the rod down enough to remove then hone the hole it came out of, this is a long-term fix. So rig it right. Look into wiring it with a relay powered by an oil pressure switch.
Most people mount the electric pump at the back near the gas tank. I mounted a Holley red electric pump on the front of the metal radiator support on my 68 convert. This is even lower than any place on the back of the car to allow gravity feed to the inlet on the pump. I drilled holes for the inlet and outlet hoses thru the rad support and installed rubber grommets to prevent damage from rubbing. Inlet connects to the large supply line that goes from the metal gas line to the mechanical pump. Outlet goes to a pressure regulator mounted on the engine side of the radiator support (6 psi) that also has a return port for the stock return line to the gas tank. outlet from the pressure regulator goes to the carburetor. Electrical hookup is simple. Ground wire on pump goes to any metal area on the fan support. positive wire on pump goes to any circuit that has power when the ignition key is on. On my 68 there are a couple spare male connectors on the fuse block. I have a 20 amp inline fuse on this wire.
Most people mount the electric pump at the back near the gas tank. I mounted a Holley red electric pump on the front of the metal radiator support on my 68 convert. This is even lower than any place on the back of the car to allow gravity feed to the inlet on the pump. I drilled holes for the inlet and outlet hoses thru the rad support and installed rubber grommets to prevent damage from rubbing. Inlet connects to the large supply line that goes from the metal gas line to the mechanical pump. Outlet goes to a pressure regulator mounted on the engine side of the radiator support (6 psi) that also has a return port for the stock return line to the gas tank. outlet from the pressure regulator goes to the carburetor. Electrical hookup is simple. Ground wire on pump goes to any metal area on the fan support. positive wire on pump goes to any circuit that has power when the ignition key is on. On my 68 there are a couple spare male connectors on the fuse block. I have a 20 amp inline fuse on this wire.
Thanks,
That clears it up a lot What about a safety switch as some have noted in case of an accident Oil Pressure shut off? From some members photos I'll be mounting my pump ( fabricate angle iron bracket) on the center of the rear frame rail where tank straps bolt through . Lower than the tank and not over the mufflers. Tank supply and return lines are right there too. Can the pressure regulator be mounted there as well? Is it separate from the pump.the pump? what type of pump? I'll have to run a positive wire back to the fuse block right? Car has been storage many years.(replaced tank and trashed sending unit, correct formed steel line mech pump to rebuilt correct carb.too. Fresh total rebuild on motor less than 500 miles total before storage. Best weather in the Seattle area Sept &Oct.for a road trip/cruise. Hope to just get it running. A stuck fuel pump rod is sure BIG PITA.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Bronze85
An oil pressure shut off sw. effect may be nil since a carb engine will run until the float bowls are empty. Plenty of time to cause damage.
The purpose of the pressure switch is not to kill the engine or to save the engine - it's to shut the pump off if the engine dies (like in a head-on accident), thus preventing the pump from pumping fuel onto the ground and burning the unconscious driver to death when he can't turn off the ignition switch.
Originally Posted by woodlawnmill
Also some wiring tips as to safety shut off and such.
The oil pressure safety switch is Holley part number 12-810. Use it in conjunction with Summit Racing part number SUM-890023 Wiring Kit and you'll have a safe, reliable system (install the switch into the relay ground circuit).
There is space on the passenger side frame rail to mount the pump:
The purpose of the pressure switch is not to kill the engine or to save the engine - it's to shut the pump off if the engine dies (like in a head-on accident), thus preventing the pump from pumping fuel onto the ground and burning the unconscious driver to death when he can't turn off the ignition switch.
The oil pressure safety switch is Holley part number 12-810. Use it in conjunction with Summit Racing part number SUM-890023 Wiring Kit and you'll have a safe, reliable system (install the switch into the relay ground circuit).
There is space on the passenger side frame rail to mount the pump:
Lars
Holleys description for part # 12-810 is to help save your engine in the unlikely event of oil pressure loss. Perhaps an inertia switch is better suited for accidents as the engine can stay running in some instances.
.... Tried many ways to remove but no luck. I'm going to go electric to GET THE CAR RUNNING! ...
Your emphasis (BOLD) seems to have morphed into a permanent installation of an electric pump with proper mounting, safety switches, etc. etc. That is a lot of work. The mechanical factory setup is still the best (i.e. motor stops, pumping stops, etc.) I am curious if you have posted on any specifics associated with your stuck pushrod, i.e. does it move at all, does the motor run off of priming, are there really bad noises coming from somewhere up front, what did you try so far, etc. etc? Maybe there is some help here with your problem at its origin?
"What about a safety switch " Yes, a safety cut-off switch is a good idea. Lars has sent you excellent comments and some photos to help with your installation. If you get a pump with a low pre-set pressure you will not need a separate regulator. I had a high volume/high pressure pump initially installed that required a regulator. I kept the regulator when I switched to a low pressure pump.
Sorry I don’t get it lol. The idea is to just get the car running. Then at a later date properly sort out the problem with the mechanical pump and put back to stock.
A person could walk into Oreillys’s with a $50 bill and buy everything they need to plumb in an inexpensive 5-7 psi elec pump that would enable the car to run safe/fine. You might even get change back from your fifty.
All of this could happen under the hood and can be easily undone. No need to be messing around at the back with regulators and oil-pressure triggered shutoff solenoids.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Bronze85
Holleys description for part # 12-810 is to help save your engine in the unlikely event of oil pressure loss. Perhaps an inertia switch is better suited for accidents as the engine can stay running in some instances.
Not correct. Note what the switch is called. Holley's description for the switch is:
Holley Safety Fuel Pressure Switch 12-810
“Holley safety fuel pressure switches will ensure the electric pump will not work unless the engine has oil pressure. It will prevent the pump from running in a situation where the motor may stall with the ignition on.”
Originally Posted by Kie
What am I missing?
Go back and read what the OP asked for
"Photos and descriptions of installs would be appreciated I've seen some pretty clean jobs (fabricating brackets even)mounting at the rear of the gas tank on the frame.Also what type of pump and some wiring tips as to safety shut off and such."
I've been running a Carter P4070 electric fuel pump mounted at the passengers side rear near the fuel tank for the past 10 years with no complaints. The pump is inexpensive, reliable, has an internal regulator and comes with a mounting braket.
Your emphasis (BOLD) seems to have morphed into a permanent installation of an electric pump with proper mounting, safety switches, etc. etc. That is a lot of work. The mechanical factory setup is still the best (i.e. motor stops, pumping stops, etc.) I am curious if you have posted on any specifics associated with your stuck pushrod, i.e. does it move at all, does the motor run off of priming, are there really bad noises coming from somewhere up front, what did you try so far, etc. etc? Maybe there is some help here with your problem at its origin?
I've messed with it for 3 weeks now as time slips buy. Moves with force with wooden dowel and tapping Not any better but not any worse. Going electric to DRIVE the car.
thanks SW
Last edited by woodlawnmill; Sep 3, 2018 at 07:16 PM.
Holleys description for part # 12-810 is to help save your engine in the unlikely event of oil pressure loss. Perhaps an inertia switch is better suited for accidents as the engine can stay running in some instances.
Does your pump have 3 ports? 1 for return to tank. Best rout for positive wire to main fuse block?.
Great help with the photos. I see many options for mounting. Thanks
Well this is kind of a left field question because I know zip about big blocks, but small blocks have a threaded hole where a bolt can secure the pushrod from sliding out while you install the fuel pump. Big blocks, I dunno.
If the pushrod is as bad as you say, you are probably screwed anyway with a mechanical pump. Your cam could well be stripped.
Holley Safety Fuel Pressure Switch 12-810
“Holley safety fuel pressure switches will ensure the electric pump will not work unless the engine has oil pressure. It will prevent the pump from running in a situation where the motor may stall with the ignition on.”
Incorrect. This is straight from the manufacturers website---- .https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/parts/12-810 "The Holley P/N 12-810 fuel pump pressure safety switch is a good peace of mind to help save your engine in the unlikely event of oil pressure loss. The safety switch is installed in conjunction with the oil pressure switch and if a loss of pressure should occur, the switch will remove power from the electric fuel pump stalling the engine due to a loss of fuel. This safety switch can help to save your engine if it losses oil pressure. Working pressure range is 2-100psi"
Not correct. Note what the switch is called. Holley's description for the switch is:
Holley Safety Fuel Pressure Switch 12-810
“Holley safety fuel pressure switches will ensure the electric pump will not work unless the engine has oil pressure. It will prevent the pump from running in a situation where the motor may stall with the ignition on.”
Go back and read what the OP asked for
"Photos and descriptions of installs would be appreciated I've seen some pretty clean jobs (fabricating brackets even)mounting at the rear of the gas tank on the frame.Also what type of pump and some wiring tips as to safety shut off and such."
Ford had the "better idea" with the inertia switch for the fuel pump in the case of an accident.
'72 454 electric fuel pump conversion?? Help!`
