IT is timed correctly, in the picture the distributor should be pointing a #6. Turn the crankshaft one complete revolution and the cam gear will be at 12 oclock and the crank gear at 12 oclock, that is when #1 is aligned to fire.

 

You are answering your own questions. I guess you should get the discount fee for that.

Will it run like that? Yes, it has been, just not very good with other issues.
Why is the cam timing marks at # 6 cyl? Because you are on # 6 TDC. Both marks should be at "NOON" for TDC #1.
Should it crank by hand with resistance? Yes, you are moving several parts, rings against the cyl walls, etc.

I don't see anything wrong with that timing set. I don't see any slack, nor did it jump a tooth.
You see, people jump to conclusions about plastic gears, jumped chain.

Now its up to you how far you want to go with this. I guess only a fool would put it all back together without swapping the set. (while I'm at it). I see you didn't drop the pan to get the cover off. That maybe an issue later when installing the cover. And it sure wouldn't hurt to put a locking tab ($5) on the cam bolts. You will find those at Jegs / Summit. You never want those bolts coming loose.

 

So that being said the timing is correct and it did not jump on the timing gear, nor is it nylon. I do plan to replace the timing set, harmonic balance and fan clutch once I put things back together. So what could be making the noise? The push rods and rocker arms all look ok, from what I know. What should be checked next? I am at a loss.

 

I don't know about the unusual noise. That's the thing about the internet: can't see a thing, can't hear a thing. Only you can.

The first post said: sounds like drums / tin can. Have you removed the dizzy cap and rotor? Look to see if the advance springs are on there. Without them the weights would fly out advancing the timing to the sound of drums & tin cans.

I take it you removed the valvecovers for a look-see? All the valvesprings appear to be ok? Try to move the rockerarms. Then rotate the crank a bit and try again. Any rockers way too loose? You are looking for a broken pushrod or broken pushrod tip. Then set the crank back to TDC for your new chain.

Hard to say on noises. Could be the torque converter as posted before. IDK. Could be main or con-rod bearings.

 

 

Ok, check two more things off your list: dizzy & torq-cvtr.

Before pulling pushrods, make note if all the rocker arm studs are showing the same amount of threads. If any rocker nut is higher on the stud than others, there is your suspect. Sometimes the nut backs off, other times press-in rocker stud tries to pull itself out of the head. A broken pushrod will show up immediately. It will be missing the top portion. A broken tip will show up as a overly loose rocker arm. Sometimes broken valve springs are hard to spot. They can be cracked and still close the valve.

But before you disassemble the valvetrain, I think a compression test like stingr69 said will help figure this out.

 

Forgive me, I didn't read thru everything, but the same thing happened to me. What you had was dieseling. I always ran a mixture of pump and avgas, then one day tried what I read on the forum using straight pump gas. Couldn't stop the dieseling because the car had a auto trans, so I turn the key back to ON and it ran again. Tried to shut it down and it dieseled again. So this time I turned on the A/C, lights and turned the steering wheel to load the engine, it stopped. Next time I drove it it had a knock. Broke a piston skirt.
If a timing chain jumps it will cause the idle to either rise or no idle at all. Did to many at Chevy back when the plastic gear was on everything.

Dom

 

 

almost looks like pieces of the thrust bearing. But I don't see how they could make it out of the oil pan if that's what it was. Is that aluminum, or steel? See if you can pick it up with a magnet.

 

Those sure look like throw out bearing parts.

 

looks almost like the outer edge of the clutch plate but I cant tell if theres grooves in the pieces from the pic, I am assuming there was not a glaring problem with the trans which would be the case if it was the throw out bearing but I woulnt rule that out either, looking at the wear marks seems like it is the clutch plate but I would want to know if the clutch has ever been replaced if it wasn't centered properly but almost correct, there wouldn't of been an issue until it wore itself out. you should try to fit the pieces together and see if the grooves align or the pieces match, that can help narrow the issue as to whether its a housing mount or internal piece that broke. racking my brains I cant see why this would cause either dieseling or backfire. as for the dieseling it sounds now like a fuel quality or a plug / wire issue as you have inspected the timing and found that ok. dieseling is caused by unburnt fuel either through bad plugs / timing or carb too rich, take your time and inspect the plugs and as u do each cylinder check the plug wires with a voltmeter im betting that its a weak plug wire or broken plug allowing fuel to pass into the exhaust. if it isn't electrical then the carb might need to be rebuilt, but I would def check the electrical first.

 

Also, by piecing it together you will get an idea of the diameter. That could very well be pieces of the throwout bearing the flange that the fork either pushes on or that is behind the fork. Also, if steal it is probably a piece of the throwout bearing. If aluminum it could well be a bigger problem.

 

did not come out of oil pan, came out when the bell housing cover was removed, but I agree could be thrust bearing

 

could be the bearing but notice the metal fragments all inside the cover, looks like a shattered clutch more then a broken piece, if possible inspect the entire clutch although they tend to shatter into a zillion pieces I have seen them fragment

 

as mentioned above the pieces that do fit together appear to be about the diameter of a thrust bearing. Looks like I have another project.

 

If it was my problem engine, I would be dropping the oil pan, removed the starter before hand to serve two purposes, to see if the starter housing has cracked, may be that is where those four pieces of, look like case iron came from, and to make it easier to get at the right pan bolts.

Once the pan is off, crank motor to the # one/two crank throw is in the low position, grab on to each rod and try to move up or down, crack the rod bolts and remove in order to check out the condition of the bearings.

Before all of that, follow what one of the earlier posters suggested about pulling the valve covers to check for loose rocker adjusting nuts, rocker studs being pulled from heads and for broken valve springs.

 

Once again. Get a magnet. If you could pick the pieces up with a magnet, it's not thrust bearing, it's not piston, most likely at that point it would be throw out bearing. Or pieces of the clutch disc or pressure plate.

 

You don't need to tear the engine down, remove the pan etc because you found a chunk of something in the BELLHOUSING! You don't need to make more work for yourself listening to bad advice. You already tore into the front for nothing with the timing chain ordeal. You don't need to remove the valve covers now.
Slow down and analyze the situation, then proceed wisely and you will save yourself a lot of grief and money.

 

nod, multiple issues going on with the housing cover off you should be able to inspect most everything with a good light and mirror nothing from the engine would make it into the bellhousing cover without a ton of oil on the floor.