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Front wheel/brake binding issue.

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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 04:24 PM
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From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
Default Front wheel/brake binding issue.

New to me 1968/327 4 speed manual with wheel binding issue. Looks like car has had recent replacement of the calipers and pads. Passenger wheel turns freely when rim is off. I see that the rivets were drilled out and not replaced with anything. As soon as I put the rim on it feels like the rotor has pulled out a bit and the outside pad is binding the rotor. Lug nuts have to be tight rather than just hand snug for issue to appear. I can move the wheel but it takes a really good bit of effort when the rim is on. Looks like standard rally rims....can not find any rubbing on the caliper or to the tire present. Could the rally rim center hole be not big enough? I put some washers as spacers between the rim and the rotor but no change. It seems odd that the rotor is being pulled out when the lug nuts are put on due to the way it seats to the back plate. Bearings seem OK with no noticeable play. No metal on metal noise just the sound of the pad.

Checked the driver side and it is a lot freer however found the previous owner had put a spacer between the rotor and the rim. Rivets were still in place. Not much difference with the rim on or off on that side...maybe some. Not much difference with spacer on or off either (don't like how few threads on the bolts for the lug nuts). Question...do I need to replace the rivets with something? It does not seem that there is anything threaded behind the rotor to put a flat head bolt into. Do I just need to get a bit of wear on the pads? Any other ideas?...thanks in advance for any advice!

Updated Information...

9/16/2018. Now this is starting to make sense....took two lug nuts and put them on backwards without the rim on and then tightened them down. Same issue but observed without the rim on that it is the back pad that is hitting (I had assumed incorrectly that it was the front).

Is there an easy adjustment for this? Could the pads be wrong or reversed as they are not the same? I will take off the caliper and check further what is going on.

9/19/18. Took caliper off and inspected everything. Cleaned surfaces and made measurements which were spec. OK. Found on line that pads are the same front or back. Pushed pads as far back as allowed by the calipers and reinstalled. Tightened the two caliper bolts real good. Some slight dragging but much better...will drive a bit and see how it goes.

Redvette2

Last edited by Redvette2; Sep 19, 2018 at 01:06 PM. Reason: More Updated Information...
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 04:43 PM
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did someone fit rear rotors on the front? Not sure if they would even fit on the hub. Did you remove the caliper to see how the rotor is sitting on the hub?
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 04:51 PM
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rivet replacement, not important at this time.
if the orginal person, had marked each orginal rotor to each orginal hub.
Is the important thing, rivets not required, some people like to install flat-head 1/4" bolts. to retaining the original indexing.
now all of this centers around the rotors checked for less than .006" runout.
and indexing the rotors should only be required when installing new rotors or starting from unknow status.
a good brake mechanic can check runout and adjust with shims, then mark/ or Index the rotors.
once this has been done it is important to retain the matched rotor and hubs.

Last edited by 69Vett; Sep 14, 2018 at 04:54 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 06:36 PM
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From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
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Originally Posted by MelWff
did someone fit rear rotors on the front? Not sure if they would even fit on the hub. Did you remove the caliper to see how the rotor is sitting on the hub?

Not yet...I will take a look at this stuff this weekend. The rotors were not replaced but I will measure front and back size and see if a difference. I noticed with the wheel off the outside pad backs away OK when pushed out. Thanks.

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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Redvette2
New to me 1968/327 4 speed manual with wheel binding issue. Looks like car has had recent replacement of the calipers and pads. Passenger wheel turns freely when rim is off. I see that the rivets were drilled out and not replaced with anything. As soon as I put the rim on it feels like the rotor has pulled out a bit and the outside pad is binding the rotor. Lug nuts have to be tight rather than just hand snug for issue to appear. I can move the wheel but it takes a really good bit of effort when the rim is on. Looks like standard rally rims....can not find any rubbing on the caliper or to the tire present. Could the rally rim center hole be not big enough? I put some washers as spacers between the rim and the rotor but no change. It seems odd that the rotor is being pulled out when the lug nuts are put on due to the way it seats to the back plate. Bearings seem OK with no noticeable play. No metal on metal noise just the sound of the pad.

Checked the driver side and it is a lot freer however found the previous owner had put a spacer between the rotor and the rim. Rivets were still in place. Not much difference with the rim on or off on that side...maybe some. Not much difference with spacer on or off either (don't like how few threads on the bolts for the lug nuts). Question...do I need to replace the rivets with something? It does not seem that there is anything threaded behind the rotor to put a flat head bolt into. Do I just need to get a bit of wear on the pads? Any other ideas?...thanks in advance for any advice!

Redvette2
Check that the wheel bearings are properly installed and that the rear seal is properly is in place.
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 09:22 PM
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I'm not sure what the problem is but remove the washers that you put between the rotor and rim as that's not safe.

Rotor size inside the hat is different front to rear.

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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Peterbuilt
I'm not sure what the problem is but remove the washers that you put between the rotor and rim as that's not safe.

Rotor size inside the hat is different front to rear.

Thanks for the measurements...yes washers were just temporary to see if the issue went away. Thanks!
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 09:55 PM
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Have you actually driven this car as it is ?
are these new wheels to the car or what was already there ?
when you say "as soon as I put the rim on...." are you starting to tighten one wheel nut ?

Last edited by bazza77; Sep 14, 2018 at 10:13 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2018 | 10:42 PM
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From: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
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Originally Posted by bazza77
Have you actually driven this car as it is ?
are these new wheels to the car or what was already there ?
when you say "as soon as I put the rim on...." are you starting to tighten one wheel nut ?
I have driven the car but only a few miles. When I noticed that the car did not want to move when I pushed on it I held off driving anymore until I resolve this issue. Checked each wheel and found this passenger wheel problem. Wheels came with the car, look to be older as they have some dings. Followed the normal procedure of snug tightening each lug using a opposite pattern, then tightening secure the same way. I don't think it starts with the first one but I will check. Thanks.

Edit update: Caliper was leaking...replaced it and now everything is A-OK. I suspect the wrong caliper was installed by the previous owner.

Redvette2

Last edited by Redvette2; Oct 15, 2018 at 08:51 PM. Reason: More info.
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