When hot, the starter sometimes won't crank from the key switch.
It isn't the solenoid, as a jumper wire to the solenoid will crank it over fine when the key switch won't.
It isn't the ignition switch, as it was replaced for another reason and the problem still exists.

This seems to leave either the neutral safety switch, or

The bulk head connector as the most likely culprits.

Being intermittent, it is kind of hard to track down. The car will crank a dozen times hot, then one time it won't.There has never been a problem when cold.

Questions:

1) Is there a known problem with bulk head connectors being flaky after several decades? This is original, but in good shape, wiring.

2) The connectors are not real easy to get to, but look like they can be accessed from below with enough leverage to get them loose, do the connector just need to be muscled out, or are there latches/tabs that need to be manipulated to get the connectors loose?

3) does the inner or outer connector contain the starter wires? The wiring diagram suggests the inner connector?

4) is there a greater chance of this being a neutral safety switch issue? Neither connectors or the switch are real easy to get to. The NSS is subject to less heat than the bulkhead junction, but it does get warm inside the console.

Thanks,
Doug

 

The engine side of the bulkhead connector has a bolt in the center that secures it to the back of the fuse panel. And the engine side is split into the engine harness and the forward light harness. I've seen the goo the factory put on there to keep out water dry out and allow some water in and cause some corrosion. On the fuse panel side, the purple 10ga wires go to the NSS or clutch switch from the ignition switch. Both 10ga, one is purple and the other is purple with a white stripe. That said, from the ignition switch, that wire goes to both the NSS and clutch- the connectors are there, they just used the one that is required.

 

Had the same issue, even a new starter did not cure it completely.
Do you hear the solenoid click when trying to start ?
Then the reason might be a voltage drop so that the solenoid is just able to engage the starter wheel to the flywheel (the clicking sound) but not enough to close the electrical contacts which drive the starter motor.

In the end I just inserted a relais (same logic as with the front lights); did this start of this year and never had a non-start since then.
Hope this helps.
Robert

 

 

There is NO click when it doesn't want to start, it either starts great, or nothing, via the key.

That 4 pin connector you show, is it part of the starter circuit, or something else completely?

Bad connectors connections is a real possibility, I had to clean both the horn and blower motor connectors when both of those stopped working, cleaning them solved the problems on those.

Thanks,
Doug

 

 

What year is your car? I don't see any connector like that, that jumps right out at me on my '72 car to the right side of the engine.

I DID see some a lump of non standard cloth friction tape around the starter wires about 8" back from the solenoid at the firewall wire clip. Maybe the PO did one of his bubba repairs there with a wire nut or similar connector and that is causing my problem. I will get it up on a lift when it stops raining and unwrap that little package and see what is there, and solder the joint if it isn't soldered.

Doug

 

I think the starter harness shown in the pictures started around 77. Dito on the rest of the advise though. Heat is the enemy of electricity, so it make sense that it would be more likely to happen warm. If you can find the clutch switch plug under the dash and put a jumper in it( cause it's easier to get at then the nss) as a test for awhile it would tell you that if it doesn't have the start issue, then the nss is probably the culprit. The jumper will complete the circuit in parallel with the nss, but be aware it will start in any gear.