Window anti-rattle brackets
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Window anti-rattle brackets
Hey All,
Looking at my door glass. There are two brackets with felt that press the glass against the outside wiper. Am I missing a third one?
Is there a felted bracket missing here ?
Also, are the ends of the wiper screwed to the door? It seems like they should be.
Looking at my door glass. There are two brackets with felt that press the glass against the outside wiper. Am I missing a third one?
Is there a felted bracket missing here ?
Also, are the ends of the wiper screwed to the door? It seems like they should be.
Last edited by DorianC3; 11-08-2018 at 04:10 AM.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks Gents,
Something must be wrong... the glass rattles a bit in there despite drawing the brackets snug.
Hmmmmm
Something must be wrong... the glass rattles a bit in there despite drawing the brackets snug.
Hmmmmm
#5
Drifting
#7
Le Mans Master
#8
Race Director
Keep in mind that the idea here is to NOT always push the felt adjusters all the way towards the glass. IF you do that...you can effect how the glass actually goes up and down. These felt adjusters are to aid in guiding the glass if needed when it is going up and down due to you are forgetting about teh felt on the door panel also when it is installed.
DUB
DUB
#10
Race Director
YES...there is no way to stop the glass from moving in and out...BUT...the KEY THING is to make sure that when the window is all the way UP....and regardless if the door panel is on or not..the glass does not move in and out a lot.
IF it does...then that is telling me you have worn out rollers and it will be hard for the door glass to seal well against the w/strip if it is not solid when all the way UP.
Which then leads to the quality of your pillar post w/strip and rear vertical w/strip. IF it is too dense..then it will begin to wear out your new rollers due to the original pillar post w/strip was really soft....and the rear vertical w/strip on 1978-1982 thus allowing the door glass to press into it and easily compress it...instead of the other way around.
DUB
IF it does...then that is telling me you have worn out rollers and it will be hard for the door glass to seal well against the w/strip if it is not solid when all the way UP.
Which then leads to the quality of your pillar post w/strip and rear vertical w/strip. IF it is too dense..then it will begin to wear out your new rollers due to the original pillar post w/strip was really soft....and the rear vertical w/strip on 1978-1982 thus allowing the door glass to press into it and easily compress it...instead of the other way around.
DUB
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Fantastic, gents... you are fantastic.
The two top screws are missing in the door panel... they were never installed. This leads me to believe that rattle comes from here as the whisker was never truly brushing it up as it should.
Goodness the outer skin sounds like a drum !!!! Fortunately, I have some left over FatMat. That should make a huge difference
The two top screws are missing in the door panel... they were never installed. This leads me to believe that rattle comes from here as the whisker was never truly brushing it up as it should.
Goodness the outer skin sounds like a drum !!!! Fortunately, I have some left over FatMat. That should make a huge difference
#12
Melting Slicks
My doors never rattled, but when I closed my driver's side door, it made a metal-to-metal sound that sounded like something was loose in there, as opposed to the passenger's side door which was a nice solid sound when closed. All the normal anti-rattle Rod Grommets were doing their job.
The metal-to-metal sound was the interior latch rod contacting the door's metal frame, right where the access hole for the post latch is.
Had to tweak the hole's edge out a bit, then protected that edge with a tiny length of split vacuum tube RTV'd into place. Now silent when slammed.
Steve
The metal-to-metal sound was the interior latch rod contacting the door's metal frame, right where the access hole for the post latch is.
Had to tweak the hole's edge out a bit, then protected that edge with a tiny length of split vacuum tube RTV'd into place. Now silent when slammed.
Steve
#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: perth western australia
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here's the anti rattle rod grommets if the O.P is interested
https://www.zip-corvette.com/68-77-d...d-grommet.html
https://www.zip-corvette.com/68-77-d...d-grommet.html
#14
5th Gear
Member Since: Feb 2021
Location: Rhode Island
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On that theme, last year I had the doors apart in my 81, replaced the actuators, sockets, and switches on the power door locks, and replaced the anti rattle bumpers along with few other minor things. On the passenger side the window still rattles and sounds like it it is pivoting on the bumpers and banging inside the door. With the window up it wobbles in and out when the door is open and the window not held firmly in place by weatherstripping. That door also lowers faster than the driver side. When I had it apart last winter it didn't look easy to figure out what was going on inside. Any thoughts or advice before I dive back in?
#15
Melting Slicks
Could the padded window stabilizers be out of adjustment or worn already? There's step by step instructions on window adjustments in the Assembly Manual of my '73. You probably know that though in your years model. Check all brackets, channels, screws & nuts within the door and you might find your solution.
Steve
Steve