LS conversion engine position tradeoffs
I will start by quoting one of my favorite writers, Thomas Sowell - “There are no solutions. There are only trade-offs.”
I have a 2013 Camaro LS3/TR6060 en-route and will be making the center frame cross-member removable in the next few days. I plan on using the multi-position motor mounts and I am wondering what considerations are to be made when figuring out how to position the engine front-to-back. I plan on using the Camaro accessories, will not be using the AC, and would not mind keeping the alternator low. If there is some range in where the engine can be placed, is it better to have it farther forward or back, and why? I know if it is back to far there may not be clearance to the firewall, if it is too far forward the accessories may not fit.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Scott
Engine further back pros:
- Better weight distribution
- More clearance in front of the engine for things like water pump to passenger A-Arm, accessories and air intake plenum.
- Firewall clearance. I ended up being ok, but I am VERY close. I have poly mounts so I don't end up with an issue, but if I had rubber engine mounts I'd be worried of hitting the heater core housing. Also, one of my bell housing bolts requires me to lift/lower the engine off the mounts to get the bolt out all the way.
- Trans tunnel clearance. This ended up being a bigger problem for me. The trans tunnel narrows as it goes back. I had to cut a decent amount of fiber glass out to clear the top of the transmission.
- Shifter placement ends up further back.
For me, the benefits of being further back (weight distribution, my car is exactly 50/50, 3,020 lbs full tank, full stock interior) was the biggest thing. If you don't care about that, I would maybe move the engine one spot forward.
I don't have the best photos to describe the above. If there's something specifically you'd like let me know, happy to help!
iam also using the ict plate and iam using the most forward holes, which will put engine in its factory postion, which will work well for the fbody accessorys - if you try to go back with engine, that alternator will hit the chassis engine mount, my alternator is already very close to chassis engine mount, so sorry only is one postion
Last edited by corvettedave383; Nov 14, 2018 at 05:06 PM.
Engine further back pros:
- Better weight distribution
- More clearance in front of the engine for things like water pump to passenger A-Arm, accessories and air intake plenum.
- Firewall clearance. I ended up being ok, but I am VERY close. I have poly mounts so I don't end up with an issue, but if I had rubber engine mounts I'd be worried of hitting the heater core housing. Also, one of my bell housing bolts requires me to lift/lower the engine off the mounts to get the bolt out all the way.
- Trans tunnel clearance. This ended up being a bigger problem for me. The trans tunnel narrows as it goes back. I had to cut a decent amount of fiber glass out to clear the top of the transmission.
- Shifter placement ends up further back.
For me, the benefits of being further back (weight distribution, my car is exactly 50/50, 3,020 lbs full tank, full stock interior) was the biggest thing. If you don't care about that, I would maybe move the engine one spot forward.
I don't have the best photos to describe the above. If there's something specifically you'd like let me know, happy to help!
iam also using the ict plate and iam using the most forward holes, which will put engine in its factory postion, which will work well for the fbody accessorys - if you try to go back with engine, that alternator will hit the chassis engine mount, my alternator is already very close to chassis engine mount, so sorry only is one postion
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iam running with tremec t56 magnum
as discussed by me and another member on this thread, the front drive accessorys using the alt in upper left and power steering in mid/bottom left, it will hit the top bar of your a arm - is that upper left when looking at front of car or when your sitting in the drivers seat??
so your pretty much stuck with the fbody/cts-v accessorys system, which means you have own one postion of engine placement, becuase of the alternator been in that lower postion
your best option is get engine mounted up and try the differnt holes and you will then see what we are talking about alot easier
Last edited by corvettedave383; Nov 15, 2018 at 07:08 PM.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rame-pics.html
More details here
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...part-list.html
My LSX Innovation adjustable bracket location. In its furthest position forward so engine sits closest to the back of firewall.
This is what how much space the alternator has with this position.
This is the section of the alternator thats close to frame
gives you an idea on how close
I cut the tab to give more clearance
Water pump mod
ill take better pic but it easily clears the stock upper A arm. The original ports were blocked off. And i made a mistake with the hole in the front. Dont put one there. Put both underneath.
Last edited by R6n350GT; Dec 11, 2018 at 07:18 AM.
Good pic on the water pump mod, I was thinking of doing it that way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good pic on the water pump mod, I was thinking of doing it that way.
More details here
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...part-list.html
My LSX Innovation adjustable bracket location. In its furthest position forward so engine sits closest to the back of firewall.
This is what how much space the alternator has with this position.
This is the section of the alternator thats close to frame
gives you an idea on how close
I cut the tab to give more clearance
Water pump mod
ill take better pic but it easily clears the stock upper A arm. The original ports were blocked off. And i made a mistake with the hole in the front. Dont put one there. Put both underneath.
Scott
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good pic on the water pump mod, I was thinking of doing it that way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good pic on the water pump mod, I was thinking of doing it that way.
Yeah, that driveshaft won't work, should have done more homework. Wasn't that familiar with cardan joints, the flange plate at the end can't be simply replaced with the flange yoke that I bought.
But..it looks like this one is a better alternative; . It's the right length, only issue is to adapt the 1310 to 1330 ujoint.
I'm not converting the TR6060 to a slip yoke, so it has to be in the driveshaft. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-geometry.html
Last edited by squared; Dec 17, 2018 at 10:41 AM.
Thanks
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...aft-angle.html













