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I was describing how car acts if clutch won't disengage. Your clutch is dead the other way. Friction surface is worn so bad it is gone. Start shopping for a flywheel or resurface yours. It will be ripped to ****. Driving using the rivets as friction surface...
I was describing how car acts if clutch won't disengage. Your clutch is dead the other way. Friction surface is worn so bad it is gone. Start shopping for a flywheel or resurface yours. It will be ripped to ****. Driving using the rivets as friction surface...
Where is a good place to buy a new flywheel from? How much would it cost for me to resurface it? Which would be preferable?
you do not need a fancy clutch ,, your first duty is to get under the car and take the inspection cover off and see if there is debris in the bell housing most of the time you will need to remove your starter first make sure your battery is disconnected you don’t need to get shocked in the process ,, once you get it off you will surly know what’s going on in there
you do not need a fancy clutch ,, your first duty is to get under the car and take the inspection cover off and see if there is debris in the bell housing most of the time you will need to remove your starter first make sure your battery is disconnected you don’t need to get shocked in the process ,, once you get it off you will surly know what’s going on in there
Anything else specific that I should be looking for while I am down there?
Yours is a 76 it may have the bolt in cross member. Jack the car up and put 4 jack stands under the frame. Now put the car in 4th gear and see if you can turn the rear wheels to see if the drive shaft is turning, if so then its in the clutch. Pull the inspection cover off - shouldn't have to remove the starter. See whats going on - have someone push the pedal in and see if the fork arm is push the pressure plate. You dont need some fancy clutch unless you are going to be hotrodding. Orielys or auto zone has descent clutch packages with a new flywheel.
Yours is a 76 it may have the bolt in cross member. Jack the car up and put 4 jack stands under the frame. Now put the car in 4th gear and see if you can turn the rear wheels to see if the drive shaft is turning, if so then its in the clutch. Pull the inspection cover off - shouldn't have to remove the starter. See whats going on - have someone push the pedal in and see if the fork arm is push the pressure plate. You dont need some fancy clutch unless you are going to be hotrodding. Orielys or auto zone has descent clutch packages with a new flywheel.
Could you post a link to one of those packages? I can't find one that includes a flywheel.
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You should look and see whats going on before spending any money. When I fried my clutch in the jeep it just disintergrated, no flywheel damage. When I burnt the clutch in my vette from too much horse and oil damage it destroyed everything but the clutch still engaged and worked. You need to find out whats n there first. Besides if you are ordering stuff on line, get it all at once and save on shipping.
for machining prices you will have to call shops local to you.
I just checked auto zone - you have to buy the flywheel separate. No biggie - or orielys can reface the old one - First and foremost need to find out whats going on.
I just checked auto zone - you have to buy the flywheel separate. No biggie - or orielys can reface the old one - First and foremost need to find out whats going on.
Hey all. I have a 1976 corvette with a 4 speed. Just recently got a hold of it. I am under the impression that the clutch will not disengage. I can shift into all gears with the engine started and without pressing the clutch pedal. Where should I start in trying to diagnose or fix this problem? Thanks
So you've never driven it? It had to be towed/flatbedded to your house? I can't believe it's just a fried clutch disc. What did the seller tell you?
I would suspect that the transmission input shaft is going to spin some with it in neutral and the pedal out even if the friction disk is fried. That said, you should feel the transmission engage when you shift from neutral to in gear, a clunk or grind. Once it's in gear, the input shaft will stop if the rest of the drivetrain is ok. Broken tranny..no clunk.
Rock Auto is the best deal going for parts when you can afford to wait, prices are half that of AutoZone or Advance. I used to sell auto parts, and Rock Auto seems to sell at jobber prices which is what a store pays for them.
I'll be interested to see if it even has a clutch disc in it.....seems weird that you can shift through the gears with no noise occurring at all.....waiting for Pics
You don't have to drive this car to work tomorrow, I assume? Then don't buy anything. Get the trans and clutch out. Then we will all sit down and do the autopsy together.
Stop! Slow down! Half you guys are ordering parts before the OP even has a prognosis.
O.P. Does the clutch pedal return to the engaged position or "pedal-up" position? Or does it stay on the floor?
I have seen throwout bearing act weird like this and sometimes the clutch fork or pivot ball or even a missing adjustment rod.
Hey guys, sorry I have been super busy with the holidays and family stuff going on. Have not gotten a chance to pull anything yet. Here in a week or two I should be able to take some time to get under her and start pulling and inspecting. I will be posting pictures as I go along. Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far!
Stop! Slow down! Half you guys are ordering parts before the OP even has a prognosis.
O.P. Does the clutch pedal return to the engaged position or "pedal-up" position? Or does it stay on the floor?
I have seen throwout bearing act weird like this and sometimes the clutch fork or pivot ball or even a missing adjustment rod.