Brake Distribution Block **FRUSTRATION**
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,406
Likes: 8,212
From: Napa Valley California
I’ve cut several box end wrenches to use for tightening flare nuts.
Remember to look at the angle of the opening of the cut so you remove as little material as necessary from the box end and make the opening just wide enough to slip over the tubing.
You don't need very much torque so I always use 12 point box ends and have cut the open end off several to allow movement in tight places.
Use a narrow wrench, thick wrenches are harder to get into tight places.
Inspect your tubing just behind the flare.
If it has been overtorqued, you can see where the tubing has twisted, or the flare is no longer at a 90 degree angle to the tubing.
Make sure the tubing flare is square to the tubing.
If the angle of the flare is off, even the slightest, the mating surface between the flare and fitting won’t make a good seal.
If the flare is not right, you can cut the tube, using a tubing cutter and re flare the tubing.
Remember to look at the angle of the opening of the cut so you remove as little material as necessary from the box end and make the opening just wide enough to slip over the tubing.
You don't need very much torque so I always use 12 point box ends and have cut the open end off several to allow movement in tight places.
Use a narrow wrench, thick wrenches are harder to get into tight places.
Inspect your tubing just behind the flare.
If it has been overtorqued, you can see where the tubing has twisted, or the flare is no longer at a 90 degree angle to the tubing.
Make sure the tubing flare is square to the tubing.
If the angle of the flare is off, even the slightest, the mating surface between the flare and fitting won’t make a good seal.
If the flare is not right, you can cut the tube, using a tubing cutter and re flare the tubing.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Dec 27, 2018 at 12:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 705
Likes: 96
From: Ventura County CA
I’ve cut several box end wrenches to use for tightening flare nuts.
Remember to look at the angle of the opening of the cut so you remove a little material as necessary from the box end and make the opening just wide enough to slip over the tubing.
You don't need very much torque so I always use 12 point box ends and have cut the open end off several to allow movement in tight places.
Use a narrow wrench, thick wrenches are harder to get into tight places.
I will probably end up doing exactly this to at least one of the wrenches I use for these fittings. The location of the block makes accessibility extremely hard. I also have a remote power steering reservoir and several AN lines mounted above the block to reach around. If I had not just filled the reservoir I could have removed it.
Inspect your tubing just behind the flare.
If it has been overtorqued, you can see where the tubing has twisted or the flare is no longer at a 90 degree angle to the tubing.
Make sure the tubing flare is square to the tubing.
This is probably one of the problems I am having. The lines do not allow any movement to help align the flare to the seat. It is hard enough just to get my fingertips on the fittings to get the threads started.
If the angle of the flare is off, even the slightest, the mating surface between the flare and fitting won’t make a good seal.
This is the reason some have had success by tightening and loosening the fitting until it finally aligns and seats.
If the flare is not right, you can cut the tube, using a tubing cutter and re flare the tubing.
Remember to look at the angle of the opening of the cut so you remove a little material as necessary from the box end and make the opening just wide enough to slip over the tubing.
You don't need very much torque so I always use 12 point box ends and have cut the open end off several to allow movement in tight places.
Use a narrow wrench, thick wrenches are harder to get into tight places.
I will probably end up doing exactly this to at least one of the wrenches I use for these fittings. The location of the block makes accessibility extremely hard. I also have a remote power steering reservoir and several AN lines mounted above the block to reach around. If I had not just filled the reservoir I could have removed it.
Inspect your tubing just behind the flare.
If it has been overtorqued, you can see where the tubing has twisted or the flare is no longer at a 90 degree angle to the tubing.
Make sure the tubing flare is square to the tubing.
This is probably one of the problems I am having. The lines do not allow any movement to help align the flare to the seat. It is hard enough just to get my fingertips on the fittings to get the threads started.
If the angle of the flare is off, even the slightest, the mating surface between the flare and fitting won’t make a good seal.
This is the reason some have had success by tightening and loosening the fitting until it finally aligns and seats.
If the flare is not right, you can cut the tube, using a tubing cutter and re flare the tubing.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 169
Likes: 39
From: Savannagh, Ga
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,877
Likes: 3,556
From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...5-Lapping-Tool
Brakes are 45º
AN (Army Navy) type fittings are 37 deg flare also called JIC (joint industrial conference) developed by the SAE for military applications.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
I had the same issue with stainless lines on the dist-block, one just wouldn't seal up and weeped just enough to be aggravating. Tried cleaning, tightening, polishing, cursing, etc. Ending up using a copper flare gasket (used on refrigeration lines) it'll form to any imperfection and seals.
I think mine came from summit but amazon etc will have them.
M
I think mine came from summit but amazon etc will have them.
M
I used the copper sealing washers also. It was my combination valve also. Two of those on two new lines. Sealed them right up.
Last edited by Street Rat; Dec 27, 2018 at 05:27 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 23,375
Likes: 1,067
From: Virginia USA
Sounds like the flare and the seat are slightly different angles. Try the copper gasket but I'm with Greengear, every time I've tried to install SS brake lines they always are a bitch to get to seal. Steel should be good for another 40 years.