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I have been fighting this brake distribution block for a week now. I have all new SS brake lines. When I first put fluid in the system I had some weeping/dripping fittings on the lines going into the block. I tried tightening them but it did no good. I removed the block and inspected the block and the seats for the flares are barely there. They are pretty much flat with little cone to them. I bought another block ($90+) and tried it. Still leaks. Took it out and looked at the flares on the SS lines, they all seem to be good with no scoring on them. Bought another block (another $90+) and installed it. AND I STILL HAVE LEAKS!!!!!! I am about ready to have a small accidental fire in the garage.
I just don't know what is wrong. This is not my first rodeo with brake lines. I can't even go into the garage and look at the car now.
Are you using measured torque on the fittings? What value?
Measured torque? I have no idea what the torque value should be. I can hardly get the wrench on the fittings much less some sort of torque measuring device. My line wrench won't even fit on two of the lines given the confined space there is to work in.
Working with SS brake lines is a real patience tester!! I had a tough time with the distribution block on mine, just needed to really torque the flare nuts down! It helps to tighten/loosen them a couple of times before the "final" tightening.
Brian, what year car are you working with? Who did you purchase your lines and the distribution blocks from?
If you purchased from one of the major vendors it may be worth giving them a call and asking them for suggestions on how to get the lines to seat. I do know that some folks have expressed frustration when using stainless steel lines getting them to seal. They are harder that the standard steel lines and it can take extra effort to get them to seat well.
I haven't looked closely at a distribution block to see just how much of a seat that they have, but I've never encountered any issues with them before either.
Good luck and let us know what you discover... GUSTO
Stainless steel lines are hard to get to seal sometimes as the flare doesn’t form to the fitting as easily as softer steel or aluminum lines.
Over the years I found that a slight angle difference between the tool making the flare and the angle cut on the fitting can make them even harder to seal and it helps to purchase fittings and pre made lines from the same manufacturer, if possible.
One trick is to make sure the flare is perfectly aligned with the fitting, hold the line in place while snugging the nut.
A dab of lubricant on the nut threads will help to snug the nut on the fitting threads.
Don’t use any sealant and don’t over tighten the nut.
You will get them to seal, just be patient.
I don't have the old lines as I did not take them out. I do have the old distr block and the seats there are buggered from the old lines. When I started there was a new block installed and I have put in two ore since then. The seats look too shallow/no or little cone.
Hold that thought for one day more. I will try again tomorrow to see if I can get them to seat using the loosen/tighten method. I hate to really crank down on the fitting if it might ruin the brass seat. The bottom line I have to install and tighten blind as it is so inaccessible.
I had the same issue with stainless lines on the dist-block, one just wouldn't seal up and weeped just enough to be aggravating. Tried cleaning, tightening, polishing, cursing, etc. Ending up using a copper flare gasket (used on refrigeration lines) it'll form to any imperfection and seals.
I think mine came from summit but amazon etc will have them.
M
This may help - put a very light coat of never seize on the tube / back of the flair - nut side under the nut and on the threads - it may help allow the nut to turn on the SS line, I did this on my rear SS lines when I had a similar issue.
Sorry I did not think of this sooner but I am fighting a mild flu and it's winning.
I ordered two sizes of flare gaskets from Amazon and will try them when they get here on Saturday. The SS lines I have were all prebent and ordered from one of our sponsor vendors. Same for the distribution blocks. My car is a '72.
I know how it’s an awkward spot but I have had some luck seating stainless flares by repeatedly tightening and loosening them. I like some of the suggestions of lubing thebthreads and back of the flare too.
Originally Posted by Mooser
I had the same issue with stainless lines on the dist-block, one just wouldn't seal up and weeped just enough to be aggravating. Tried cleaning, tightening, polishing, cursing, etc. Ending up using a copper flare gasket (used on refrigeration lines) it'll form to any imperfection and seals.
I think mine came from summit but amazon etc will have them.
M
Had no idea these things even existed. Thanks for the tip!
I ordered two sizes of flare gaskets from Amazon and will try them when they get here on Saturday. The SS lines I have were all prebent and ordered from one of our sponsor vendors. Same for the distribution blocks. My car is a '72.
As were mine. Also a 72, lines from CC. Stock block
All of the lines sealed up (I usually grease the back of the nuts on all flare lines, especially the stainless as it "sticks" but the one, I think it was the one on the top of the block, just wouldn't seal, everything looked fine, no scratches, etc just couldn't get it to seal. Seriously considered ripping the lines back out and going back to steel (or nicopp) but we used these in hydraulic systems before so I ordered a few, (3/16 I think but could be wrong) and it worked first go, couple of years now (hydroboost)
M
There is a specified min and max torque for tightening flared hydraulic fittings. You should be able to get a torque wrench on just about any application with a common crows foot. The max torque is low enough that it shouldn't require a specialized flared fitting type crows foot. If you can't still can't get to the fitting, you can get a good estimated torque using the 'flats method'. If you are not adhering to the proper torque specifications, you're shooting in the dark.
I had the same issue with stainless lines on the dist-block, one just wouldn't seal up and weeped just enough to be aggravating. Tried cleaning, tightening, polishing, cursing, etc. Ending up using a copper flare gasket (used on refrigeration lines) it'll form to any imperfection and seals.
I think mine came from summit but amazon etc will have them.
M
Wow. Thanks. I do learn something just about every time I read here. Thank you.
I ordered two sizes of flare gaskets from Amazon and will try them when they get here on Saturday. The SS lines I have were all prebent and ordered from one of our sponsor vendors. Same for the distribution blocks. My car is a '72.
I gather that you are using the correct wrench, but if I was having problems with tightening, then I would be willing to sacrifice the "closed end" of the the end-wrench such that I could slip if over the tube and have multiple positions available for tightening. The "tube wrenches" I have seem to be like 6-point, or one side per flat, ...... Whereas a regular end-wrench is like 12-point and might you better/more options for positioning and tightening.
Brake Distribution Block **FRUSTRATION**
