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Only one. Remove the cap. Rotate the engine until 0 comes up on the balancer and timing tab. The rotor should be pointing toward #1 spark plug wire on the cap. If not, turn the crank over one revolution. Mark the orientation of the rotor to the distributor housing.....and the housing/shaft to the intake. Remove the distributor and now you can put it back the way you found it when you are done doing what you are doing.
Why is the Harmonic Balancer so hard to turn clocklwise? Never had this problem in the past.
Way too many answers to tell you for sure without being there.........I just bump it with the starter via a friend
Then use a socket on a breaker bar to get it close.......
"clocking" is a term used to describe dist positions.
you have gears that must align.
if you don't plan on moving crank position then
just note where dist housing (vac can) points and where the rotor\points and
put dist back in those positions.
"clocking" is a term used to describe dist positions.
you have gears that must align.
if you don't plan on moving crank position then
just note where dist housing (vac can) points and where the rotor\points and
put dist back in those positions.
True, but if you put it on 0 on the tab.......you will know if the engine got bumped or moved from position very easily........this is important if you walk away from the job for days or weeks before it can be reassembled.
True, but if you put it on 0 on the tab.......you will know if the engine got bumped or moved from position very easily........this is important if you walk away from the job for days or weeks before it can be reassembled.
I cringe when someone tries to turn the crank over with a breaker bar / socket, and the all plugs are still in. There is another post on this forum right now: How to remove a broken harmonic balancer bolt. Hint-hint.
A better, safer way is to just use the IGN key and jog it. If you go past your timing marks, go around try again. Not that big of deal. A whole lot safer than the above method.
Here's what I do every time. Doing it the same every time saves me from remembering. I rotate the engine so the rotor faces forward on v8's or toward the block on inlines. A paint stripe on the engine to show what direction the vacuum advance points to. Then a paint mark on the distributor body where the rotor points after removing it from the engine. To install, point the rotor to the mark on the distributor body and drop in and the rotor will point forward, turn the body so the vacuum advance points to the paint mark on the engine. This will get you very close to start and time it. As said previously, it is easier to rotate the engine with the plugs out.