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68 fuel tank replacement

Old 01-10-2019, 11:41 PM
  #1  
titanle
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Default 68 fuel tank replacement

what is everyone going with when replacing the fuel tank? I have seen some online and I noticed some say 68E and others 68L, what does that mean? My car guy suggested I drop the tank to clean it out as the car is starving for fuel and he's had to replace the fuel filter. Instead of cleaning it, I was thinking of just getting a new one.

What is everyones suggestions? I have a 68 350, new fuel lines, fuel pump, carb etc.

Thanks!
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Old 01-11-2019, 12:58 AM
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ronarndt
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titanle- 68E and 68L refer to early production and late production in the model year. Especially for the 1968 Vette, which was a new body style, Chevrolet made some changes to the car during the production year. Not sure if there is a difference in the fuel tank.
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:10 AM
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titanle
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hmmm is there a way to distinguish? I honestly don't even know if my car is an early 68 or late 68.
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:07 AM
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I would think the vin tells you production date but im
not sure how to tell.
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Old 01-11-2019, 10:55 AM
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Offhand, I'm not sure the tanks changed in 68, so there may not be an "early" or 'late". Do you have the AIM? If there was a change of tanks, there may be a change date on the AIM page.

There is no production date in the VIN unless you want to chase down the consecutive unit number and determine about when the car was produced. Time build date on the trim tag is the quickest was to determine production date. That will get you to within a day or two.

Last edited by Easy Mike; 01-11-2019 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 01-11-2019, 12:45 PM
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HUSKEE73
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Quanta makes exact fuel tanks.
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Old 01-11-2019, 12:56 PM
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titanle
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Iíll take a look at the trim tag and post a pic. I will take a look at the quanta tank as well. Thank you.
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:16 PM
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20mercury
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Default My 2cents;

IMHO, I only buy a new tank if it has pinholes and is leaking. Even if it is leaking, you can supposedly buy a product, Evercoat? maybe? that will seal the pin holes, but I am not sure I would trust that. So, I drop the old tank, clean out the inside, coat the outside with a rust convertor and then top coat with a bright nickel Rustoleom spray paint, then install a new pickup.

Hope this might help and good luck, maybe a tank sticker too will be found??
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:55 PM
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ronarndt
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Originally Posted by titanle View Post
hmmm is there a way to distinguish? I honestly don't even know if my car is an early 68 or late 68.
In the VIN, the numbers after the "S" are the sequential production numbers from 400001 thru 428566 from Sept 1967 to July 1968. Monthly production serial numbers by month, according to mcjacks corvettes are: Sep 67 400001 to 400905. Oct 67 400906-403410. Nov 67 403411-406582. Dec 67 406583-407922. Jan 68 407923-410386. Feb 68 410387-412647. Mar 68 412648-415000. Apr 68 415001-417676. May 68 417677-420928 Jun 68 420929-423978. Jul 68 423979-428566. The "code" for the VIN is (for example 194678S400001) first digit 1 means Chevrolet Motor Division. Second digit 9 means Corvette. Third digit 4 is V-8 engine. Fourth and fifth digits 67 means T-top, 37 means convertible. Sixth digit 8 is model year 1968. S is for the St. Louis assembly plant. The remaining six digits from 400001 to 428566 are the sequential numbers assigned to each car.

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Old 01-11-2019, 08:34 PM
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titanle
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Thank you for that, i'll verify the VIN. My car guy suggested dropping the tank and just cleaning it out, and IF there's leaks or any issues then to go ahead and replace it. Makes sense but at the same time a new tank would provide piece of mind as well, no idea if the tank is original or not. I think we will drop the tank and if I can get away with just replacing the filler sock i'll do that, otherwise i'll get a new tank.
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:36 PM
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I'm pretty sure that the tank did not change during the year. There are tanks with and without a return line though. What does the inside of the tank look like? Use a bright LED flashlight and inspection mirror. You can get pretty good view of most of the tank. If rusty I would replace it, but that's me. I had to add a return line fitting to mine (not original tank) so I had a local radiator shop clean it out before brazing the fitting in. If it does not look bad you may try that but a new tank is not that expensive. The sock may be clogged also and you can change that without dropping the tank. Get a new sock and o-ring to ensure a good seal.

Last edited by flyeri; 01-11-2019 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 01-12-2019, 03:31 AM
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Hey Titanle,
I went through this with my 1969. I had the original tank which had some rust on the inside that was giving me all kinds of grief as it flaked off and ended up in my carbs. I wanted to keep my original tank so I took it out to Hans Radiator in Richmond (Number 3 Road and Bridgeport) and he cleaned it out with some type of solution and and putting a chain inside to move the solution around. Cost a little less than a new tank.
Looks great inside and very happy with the results. I didn't replace it as I am trying to stay pretty much original on my build.
If you want piece of mind, Spectra makes great tanks that are sold pretty much everywhere.
Good luck, Pete

Last edited by VancouverL71; 01-12-2019 at 03:43 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 01-12-2019, 03:34 AM
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And as flyer said, for a couple bucks, you can replace the sock in the tank. It can be done from above if you find someone that can fit their hand through from above but best to just buy a new seal and take it out from below. Messy job draining the fuel but an easy job other than that.
Good luck
Pete
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Old 01-12-2019, 07:20 AM
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When I replaced the tank in the 6t8 I just ordered it from one of the big vendors [forgot which one]. I ordered a non vented one and use a vented cap. The style and dimensions are the same as the tank in my 69, so don't worry about early or late. My 6t8 was built in January of 68 and the 69 was built in December of 69. As far as finding about your car log into the 'Corvette Registry' you will find your build date and other info [the serial number is required]. T
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Old 01-12-2019, 12:34 PM
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flyeri
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Originally Posted by VancouverL71 View Post
And as flyer said, for a couple bucks, you can replace the sock in the tank. It can be done from above if you find someone that can fit their hand through from above but best to just buy a new seal and take it out from below. Messy job draining the fuel but an easy job other than that.
Good luck
Pete
Draining the fuel is not as bad as it seems at first. I tried draining from below but that was messy. What I do now is run it down to about 1/4 tank. I use an empty 5 gallon gas can and about 8-10 feet of 3/8 clear plastic tubing. Tape one end of the tubing to something stiff (straightened coat hanger, yard stick) so you can hold the tube at the bottom the tank. set the can on the ground behind the car and let a coil of the hose lay on the ground. You can suck on the other end of the hose and as soon as you see the fuel get down to the ground put the end in the gas can. You won't taste gas or get gas fumes and it will drain right down to the bottom.

I do the radiator the same way except I use a clean bucket. No messy antifreeze running everywhere.
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Old 01-13-2019, 03:40 PM
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BLUE1972
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The cost to clean and repair the tank may be equal to or more than a new tank.

If I planned on keeping the car for more than 10+ years I would just replace the tank, that's just me - one less thing to worry about.

Just be sure to replace the cork neck seal when you take the tank out. It's a lot easier to clean it while it's on the floor.

Last edited by BLUE1972; 01-13-2019 at 03:41 PM.
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Old 01-14-2019, 08:46 PM
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titanle
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Thanks for all the replies guys, tons of valuable information! I do plan on keeping the car long term at this point in time, so it may make the most sense to just buy a new tank. But i'll hold off on any definitive statements until we get the tank dropped and see exactly what we're dealing with.
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