It does look well done, but the fans themselves, already have individual shrouds around them. They are not just hanging out there in free air. What I don't see are seals around the edges. Unsealed edges allow the air to be freely pulled in the sides, instead of the radiator, as that's the route of least resistance. As far as the fuel line is concerned, as long as it's SAE 30R6 rated, it should be fine. There's a whole lot of cars that run rubber fuel lines without problems, unless they're cracked or misrouted. My dual fans are a single unit and have a large square shroud around them.

 

Yup. My thought too. Wrong pump would do it.

I also do not like the fan support. Tie wraps thru the core is big no no. Radiator guys love them things.

And for safety, the rubber fuel line and glass filter need to go.

The whole package is nicely done though. I would be proud to own that car.

 

 

 

This is the proper setup from Dewitts. Pricey but they work very well. These don't mount to the fins of the radiator but the top and bottom. Much more secure ad they have shrouding to aid in airflow.

https://www.dewitts.com/collections/...l-dual-fan-kit

 

I work for a company that designed and build fan cooling packages for over twenty years.
Here is my thoughts about your car.
You indicated that you added AC in the car by adding a condensor in front of the radiator reduces the amount of air entering the radiator.
You might want to consider replacing your radiator to a 3 of 4 row with the correct fins per inch to allow the coolant more time in the rad to cool.
I noticed that the rad in not sealed to the rad support. You could be drawing hot engine bay air over the top of the rad support and back into the rad.
Also having the correct air dam mounting under the rad support serves three purposes one it force air into the rad when driving, two it creates a negative pressure behind it and helps draw air from behind the rad down and underneath the car, three is helps when using electric fans it stops re-circulation of hot air exiting the rad and going under the rad support and back in the rad again when idling.
Mounting electric fans directly to the rad is a big no no. They should be mounted in a shroud that covers the complete rad core.
We made electric fan shroud that had windows cut into the dead spaces with flex-able rubber doors. When driving a highway speeds the doors with open and allow ram air to go thru the rad. and when the fans would turn on seal up and only draw air thru the rad.
Make sure the fans are operating in the right direction, Forward swept blades are quieter but draw less air the rearward swept blades.
If this suggestion doesn't help then I would be looking at the engine.

 

A few more thoughts. Fan cooling systems is only designed for city driving or idling times. it's actually is a blockage at highway speeds and is not required at all.
If the car runs cool on the highway then it is not an engine problem. Could be a coolant flow issue or anything in my previous post. Your electric fan system only draws air thru the rad the size of the fan.
The rest of the rad does not get any cooling. That is why a shroud is used to draw air thru the whole radiator and not just at the fan.

 

Listen to Lars....not that I disagree with other suggestions, but the timing is the first and most important item to verify...

 

First thing I see is the lack of shroud on the fans this will render them almost useless. Second I see is there is no seal between the radiator and the core support, this will allow air to go around the radiator instead of through it at speed.

 

I hope you get to the bottom of your cooling issue. I still doubt it's timing causing an issue at idle. Let us all know as a learning. Thanks

 

Timing is easy to check, and if it is off, you'll get free HP and a more responsive car by following Lars' instructions. If your mechanic is setting your timing in a different way, PM Lars for a copy of his timing paper (or email). You can also do this yourself, and it's a fun thing to do, if you don't mind buying a timing light and a distributor wrench!

My guess now is the lack of a shroud on the radiator is allowing air to pass through the fan that does not pass through the radiator, especially since the overheating issue is seen at lower speeds. As posted above, the DeWitts dual-Spal fan with shroud is a great solution. You may be able to make your existing system work by mounting it on a properly sized cookie sheet with holes cut for the fan. The shroud ensures that air flows through the radiator to get to the fan, and the cookie sheet can then be mounted on the radiator support, not hung from the fins. Here's a video that shows this, and there are other examples on this forum.

Good luck, and please let us know how it works out!

 

Bikespace- While I agree with your statement about needing a shroud; it seems to me (from her comments) that she would be more likely to just buy a pre-fabricated set of fans with a built in shroud. I like the pan-pie idea but it doesn't seem cost effective if she's going to have to pay labor to get that fabricated.

I really think the following needs to be checked, and that which needs adjusting/repairing/replacing/fixing to be taken care of:
1. timing needs to be verified and adjusted as necessary,
2. the water pump verified to be for a reverse flow serpentine system, and
3. I would suggest the fans be replaced with a manufacturers dual setup with a built-in shroud.....that way she can easily repair/replace if the equipment fails. I believe Ford Focus dual fans are a favorite around here (Disclosure: I have Lincoln Mark 8 but you can't buy them new anymore, perhaps a Taurus fan...but I'd prefer to have dual fans).

 

What temp stat is installed now? What is the set point for the fan controller?

 

That's a beautiful car Is it my imagination - Or is that license plate support really wide? Or is that normal for this year?

 

Looks like the bumperetts have been removed and filled flush with the plate.

 

 

All body work was done by previous owner.

 

See post #50 above and mentioned very early in this thread...If the car runs and temps fine at speed, It is not a timing issue causing high temps at idle or stop and go traffic.

 

 

What shroud are you getting? Something with new fans? Hopefully you are not ordering a stock shroud to use with those electric fans?