Oil Question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,855
Likes: 0
From: Cocoa Beach FL
Oil Question
I just spent 30 minutes searching the archives for anything about oil choices and found a ton of great info but I still have a question:
Some people said using "normal" oil during engine break-in was best then switching to synthetic (I have as new ZZ4 with 550 miles on it) but other said to stick with the "normal" stuff. I am thinking the synthetic is probably better overall but I thought I'd see if anyone had any last minute opinions that might help me.
BTW - I haven't changed my own oil in 5 years but I don't think I trust the quick lube joint to do my new vette!
Thanks!
Some people said using "normal" oil during engine break-in was best then switching to synthetic (I have as new ZZ4 with 550 miles on it) but other said to stick with the "normal" stuff. I am thinking the synthetic is probably better overall but I thought I'd see if anyone had any last minute opinions that might help me.
BTW - I haven't changed my own oil in 5 years but I don't think I trust the quick lube joint to do my new vette!
Thanks!
Racer
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: Niedernhausen, Germany
Re: Oil Question (Mystery Machine)
I would use 15W40 (which normally is non-synthetic) for break in (first 1000 miles) and then switch to 10W40 (which usually is available partly synthetic or full-synthetic). 5W or 0W (which normally is available full-synthetic only) is too thin for the seals of a production small block.
If you rebuild an engine with great care, you might be able to use 5W also without any leaking. Also the thinner oil will reduce maximum oil pressure a bit.
BTW: I would change oil EVERY year. Our big engines do have very little (compared to their size) oil anyway. Over the time, a lot of accids and water will build up in the oil, which leads to internal corrosion (which is even worse if you do not drive the car a lot). Of course the lubrication is being reduced quicker if an engine has a small amount of oil.
Changing oil is so simple (DO NOT use a pump to change the oil, DRAIN it at the pan to get all residue from the bottom of the pan OUT) and cheap considering the cost of a new engine... any garage should be capable to do it. Just have an eye on the oil they are using - chose a good grade.
If you do it yourself, the oil is usually a lot cheaper and you know what you are buying.
[Modified by V8yunkie, 5:40 AM 10/31/2002]
If you rebuild an engine with great care, you might be able to use 5W also without any leaking. Also the thinner oil will reduce maximum oil pressure a bit.
BTW: I would change oil EVERY year. Our big engines do have very little (compared to their size) oil anyway. Over the time, a lot of accids and water will build up in the oil, which leads to internal corrosion (which is even worse if you do not drive the car a lot). Of course the lubrication is being reduced quicker if an engine has a small amount of oil.
Changing oil is so simple (DO NOT use a pump to change the oil, DRAIN it at the pan to get all residue from the bottom of the pan OUT) and cheap considering the cost of a new engine... any garage should be capable to do it. Just have an eye on the oil they are using - chose a good grade.
If you do it yourself, the oil is usually a lot cheaper and you know what you are buying.
[Modified by V8yunkie, 5:40 AM 10/31/2002]
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,855
Likes: 0
From: Cocoa Beach FL
Re: Oil Question (V8yunkie)
Thanks very much. I was in the store last night looking at the oils that are available and it's very overwhelming! I know people that always use the same oil and never even think aboutt it but since it has been so long since I did it myself that I figured I'd find out what everyone here thought.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
