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and also i went with an edelbrock double roller timing gear set which said to install it dot to dot. unlike the factory gears which are 12 and 12
I can't imagine a company like that going against the grain and recommending Dot To Dot on cyl # 1. Are you sure you read the whole instruction sheet? Those instructions would really mess up procedures for future owners of that engine.
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
I can't imagine a company like that going against the grain and recommending Dot To Dot on cyl # 1. Are you sure you read the whole instruction sheet? Those instructions would really mess up procedures for future owners of that engine.
he is correct, dot to dot on edelbrock chains. ITs pretty easy to tell its not stock, 3 different keyways and 3 different shapes to line up. If you buy and engine used and dont go through it and understand whats in it. Maybe you should either rebuild it or dont mess with it. And the instructions are very clear. You should look them up. Here ya go https://www.jegs.com/InstallationIns...0/350-7800.pdf
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Jan 24, 2019 at 07:26 PM.
positive, i thought the same thing so i called edelbrock and made sure before i did it. even a picture of it in the instructions. idk why they felt the need to mark them like that.
positive, i thought the same thing so i called edelbrock and made sure before i did it. even a picture of it in the instructions. idk why they felt the need to mark them like that.
It doesn't make any difference. Its the same both ways. You could just as easily install it with the marks aligned.
My method for setting valves and you MUST start at #1, TDC on compression stroke.
#1TDC COMPRESSION:
Exhaust valves 1,3,4&8
intake valves 1,2,5&7
ROTATE 1 TURN TO #6 TDC:
Exhaust valves 2,5,6&7
intake valves 3,4,6&8
Loosen the rockers till you can jiggle the pushrod. Tighten till you can barely spin the pushrod with your fingers. Turn the rocker nut down 1 full turn (provided you are running hydraulics).
Last edited by stumpshot; Jan 24, 2019 at 11:26 PM.
It doesn't make any difference. Its the same both ways. You could just as easily install it with the marks aligned.
No, not at all. One method is for Cyl # 6 TDC. The other method is for Cyl #1 TDC. I never knew aftermarket companies have changed valve-timing methods after 60+ yrs. Without the knowledge of the brand name on the timing set, it could really mess up an unsuspecting owner.
That could explain some former questions on the forum:
My engine won't start, I saw the timing chain set with dots at . . . . . . . . . please help . . . .
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 25, 2019 at 09:57 AM.
Reminds me of the old Honda CB350 twins. The eccentric in the mechanical advance can fall out, and there are two ways to put it back in, if you put it in wrong the thing wouldn't run because the points event is out 180 degrees. Everything else was 4.0 and folks new to the engine would spend hours trying to figure out what the problem was...
But the cams were times correctly. It was the ignition that was 180 out. Just like here. You set up a Chebby chain at 12 and 12 or 12 and 6, you got the cam timed correctly. And 12 and 6 is easier to eyeball without being off a tooth. You just need to get the ignition correct.
Last edited by derekderek; Jan 25, 2019 at 09:48 AM.
But the cams were times correctly. It was the ignition that was 180 out. Just like here. You set up a Chebby chain at 12 and 12 or 12 and 6, you got the cam timed correctly. And 12 and 6 is easier to eyeball without being off a tooth. You just need to get the ignition correct.
I just did a swap a year ago and the directions I followed said to line the dots up for the install as it makes it easier to align correctly then rotate the crank 360* to be TDC on #1 then complete the rebuild.
Reminds me of the old Honda CB350 twins. The eccentric in the mechanical advance can fall out, and there are two ways to put it back in, if you put it in wrong the thing wouldn't run because the points event is out 180 degrees. Everything else was 4.0 and folks new to the engine would spend hours trying to figure out what the problem was...
Or after decades of setting the IGN timing on SBC, then your buddy brings his 289 over for a tune. #1 cyl is where? You're kidding right?
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 25, 2019 at 10:05 AM.
thanks all, ok so i spun it around 180 to fire on 1.... it sputtered and started to run for a second but rough and then quit as soon as i gave it some gas. the method i used to adjust the valves it shouldnt matter what position the motor was in, i adjusted them all to zero lash then spun the engine 90 degrees at a time and then whatever ones came loose i adjusted them all back down to zero lash for a total of 2 full rotations until all were at zero lash and then did a half a turn of preload on each one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EGlb_VpTAw this is the video i used as a guide. unfortunately i let the engine sit for about 6 days before i could start it because it was literally 2 degrees outside by me. i used the green assembly lube from lucas i think. but im thinking i let it sit too long and cranked it too much and now maybe i destroyed the cam and the valves are hanging open so it wont run. im so pissed i screwed this up. and have to tear this whole thing down again.
I used the same method to do mine and it worked after the valves were pumped up, just because you swapped the dist. 180 doesnt mean its perfectly timed.it can take a bit to get running and be really frustrating trying to get it running and time it by yourself. If you destryoed the cam the valves wouldnt be hanging open. Did you prime the oiling system before putting in the dist?
I just did a swap a year ago and the directions I followed said to line the dots up for the install as it makes it easier to align correctly then rotate the crank 360* to be TDC on #1 then complete the rebuild.
Now that makes perfect sense. I hope that's what Eddy instructions clarified.
he is correct, dot to dot on edelbrock chains. ITs pretty easy to tell its not stock, 3 different keyways and 3 different shapes to line up. If you buy and engine used and dont go through it and understand whats in it. Maybe you should either rebuild it or dont mess with it. And the instructions are very clear. You should look them up. Here ya go https://www.jegs.com/InstallationIns...0/350-7800.pdf
That is not what the instructions say.
From the instructions:
Alignment of the timing marks as shown below does not always indicate Top Dead Center (TDC) of the number 1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Many engine families (Chevrolet, Pontiac, etc.) will be at TDC of number 1 on the exhaust stroke and the crankshaft will have to be rotated one full turn before the distributor can be installed and timed.
yes i primed it for about 2 full mins with a tool and a drill. however the drivers side lifters oiled up but the passengers side didnt oil. i read that its just the nature of the oil passages in a SBC and sometimes a drill isnt powerful enough to bring the oil up to the lifters on the passengers side but its not a big deal
im really very doubtful my valves are too tight i really spent alot of time adjusting them. i took them just to the point of no play between the rocker and the push rod and you felt them catch and then id rotate the engine and only the ones that came loose i took back down to zero lash, never re tightening any that were already adjusted.... and then after they all were at zero lash after a few full rotations i set the preload which was pretty conservative. if i were to take any clearance off any of them beyond a half turn the push rods would come loose
im really very doubtful my valves are too tight i really spent alot of time adjusting them. i took them just to the point of no play between the rocker and the push rod and you felt them catch and then id rotate the engine and only the ones that came loose i took back down to zero lash, never re tightening any that were already adjusted.... and then after they all were at zero lash after a few full rotations i set the preload which was pretty conservative. if i were to take any clearance off any of them beyond a half turn the push rods would come loose
I can't say your valves aren't adjusted correctly as I've never done it that way. However it makes me a little nervous that you adjusted your valves without knowing exactly where the lifter was located on the cam. Don't get me wrong - your method kind of makes sense, but I've never heard of anyone doing it that way before. Might make sense to reset them using a more conventional method.
well guys thanks so much for the help!! mission complete. got it to run well enough (like dog poop) for the cam break in and i got the timing decent enough to tell that the cam is good and i drove it around the block. the only thing that concerned me is during cam break in the pipe just past the cat was glowing red. should i be concerned. engine temp was fine. couldnt have done it without you all.
But the cams were times correctly. It was the ignition that was 180 out. Just like here. You set up a Chebby chain at 12 and 12 or 12 and 6, you got the cam timed correctly. And 12 and 6 is easier to eyeball without being off a tooth. You just need to get the ignition correct.
Yes, that's what I was saying in a roundabout fashion.