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Does that tire stay inside the fender on suspension compression? That’s impressive if it does with a 295. Was going to try it myself. Is the tire hitting the frame sitting still or just while driving? Looks great!
I just did a bit of work to relocate my 295 55 15 MT drag radials inboard. The wheels I have are Weld Draglites, and they are 15x9 with 5 1/2 inch backset. Of course they would not clear the calipers, so for years I ran a VB&P wheel adaptor that was 1 1/4 inch thick, but the tire stuck out one inch. Drove me crazy.
So my newest rendition is the same wheels, but using a custom .710 inch thick wheel adaptor. This brought my tire in 1/2 inch. While this was a good thing,....it required a shortened rear spring and removal of the rear sway bar. I had Van Steel make a 440 lb shortened spring to compensate for the loss of rear sway bar, and allow for the tire clearance. The ultimate goal will be a 15x10 wheel that sits like my 9 inch wheel sits now. Current backset is 4.79 inches, so the 15x10 would be about 5.25 inches, or 1/4 inch less than you see with wcmachine's set up.
I only took a short ride around the block as there was still snow on the roads the day I had it out, but there was no evidence of tire contact with the frame, or anywhere.
Here are a few pics I took while the car was still on jacks, and up against my bump stop.
I did test mine while the spring was out and under full compression the tire will not hit anywhere. I did modify my bump stop, and still need to drive the car a bit to see if I need to trim it some.
wcmachine,
I would try a 1/4 inch spacer and see if that will eliminate the need for frame bashing.
This last pic was taken before I started to move the tires in. Doesn't look bad in my opinion, but I felt it would look better if the tires were tucked in a bit more. Also I do want to go with 15x10 to get rid of the tire pinched look.
Last edited by The Money Pit; Jan 31, 2019 at 09:07 AM.
I run an 18x10 with 5.54" backspace and a 295/30R18 or 295/35R18 on my car when on the track. It doesn't rub anywhere at rest, or cycling the suspension up and down, but it has polished the paint off the chassis in the area indicated so must touch lightly under cornering loads. It has never rubbed hard enough to even make a mark on the tyre though.
Last edited by Metalhead140; Jan 30, 2019 at 11:28 PM.
I have 18x10 with 5.75 bs, tire is 295/40-18, we had to "nudge" the frame in a couple spots. doesn't rub and inside the stock wheel well. Also had to modify trailing arm, sway bar, and shorten rear monospring
I have 18x10 with 5.75 bs, tire is 295/40-18, we had to "nudge" the frame in a couple spots. doesn't rub and inside the stock wheel well. Also had to modify trailing arm, sway bar, and shorten rear monospring
Intriguing, must be basically the same wheels as mine? I run a 0.2" spacer, and I have done the same modifications. Without the spacer I hit the chassis and swaybar (though I could probably bend the swaybar more for additional clearance). I wonder if it's a function of toe? I do run a fair bit of toe in on the rear to counter the rear suspension toeing out in bump, and I run a bit of neg camber on the rear which may reduce my clearance also. My wheels sit comfortably within the arch, even with the spacer that changes the effective backspace from 5.74" to 5.54".
Last edited by Metalhead140; Jan 31, 2019 at 01:09 AM.
Stock suspension travels with the tire in an arc. A product called Smart Struts or even better the 6 link setups eliminate negative camber gains on vertical wheel travel
tire diameter, rear spring rate, and the use of adapters or wheel spacer all work
I had 11 X 17 rear wheels for many years that stuck out like money pits until I installed rear flares
