fiber optic repair
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 45
Likes: 1
fiber optic repair
I need suggestions! I have a 71 Stingray with a broken passenger side fiber cable that goes to the blinker light. The cable is different than the solid versions they have in the repair kits. It's multi-strand I guess, not sure how to describe it. Is there any way to repair this cable and put a new end on it so it functions? I have tried using the manual methods. But the solid fiber cable doesn't want to transfer light to this multi-strand.
The internet seems to be devoid of this topic, which is unbelievable. Either your all just paying 200 bucks for a complete front end kit replacement or I am searching for it incorrectly.
Someone please enlighten me!
The internet seems to be devoid of this topic, which is unbelievable. Either your all just paying 200 bucks for a complete front end kit replacement or I am searching for it incorrectly.
Someone please enlighten me!
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
All of the F/O cables are many strands of glass fiber. Most of the cable is restrained in a sheath which allows it to maintain it cable-like look. And the ferrules on the ends also keep the fibers together.
To repair the cable, you need to find where the bundle is intact in its sheath. Then, you cut it (with sheath still there) with a VERY sharp instrument and in a VERY straight cut (perpendicular to the centerline of the cable. Once cut, the end needs to be smoothed and polished so that it will transmit as much light as possible...but you can't cause the fibers to fray. In that state, you can 'marry' it to another prepared cable. I believe that some joints do not use adhesive; some suggested fixes use something like super-glue to bond the ends. Go with the instructions in your repair kit.
To repair the cable, you need to find where the bundle is intact in its sheath. Then, you cut it (with sheath still there) with a VERY sharp instrument and in a VERY straight cut (perpendicular to the centerline of the cable. Once cut, the end needs to be smoothed and polished so that it will transmit as much light as possible...but you can't cause the fibers to fray. In that state, you can 'marry' it to another prepared cable. I believe that some joints do not use adhesive; some suggested fixes use something like super-glue to bond the ends. Go with the instructions in your repair kit.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 45
Likes: 1
All of the F/O cables are many strands of glass fiber. Most of the cable is restrained in a sheath which allows it to maintain it cable-like look. And the ferrules on the ends also keep the fibers together.
To repair the cable, you need to find where the bundle is intact in its sheath. Then, you cut it (with sheath still there) with a VERY sharp instrument and in a VERY straight cut (perpendicular to the centerline of the cable. Once cut, the end needs to be smoothed and polished so that it will transmit as much light as possible...but you can't cause the fibers to fray. In that state, you can 'marry' it to another prepared cable. I believe that some joints do not use adhesive; some suggested fixes use something like super-glue to bond the ends. Go with the instructions in your repair kit.
To repair the cable, you need to find where the bundle is intact in its sheath. Then, you cut it (with sheath still there) with a VERY sharp instrument and in a VERY straight cut (perpendicular to the centerline of the cable. Once cut, the end needs to be smoothed and polished so that it will transmit as much light as possible...but you can't cause the fibers to fray. In that state, you can 'marry' it to another prepared cable. I believe that some joints do not use adhesive; some suggested fixes use something like super-glue to bond the ends. Go with the instructions in your repair kit.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 84
Likes: 2
From: whiting NJ
I use to repair these fiber optics when I worked for GM. You need to get a good clean square cut on both ends. Then then we would use a piece of rubber hose 2" should do it with an ID size of the OD size of the fiber optic. The tighter the fit the better, butt the two ends together.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I think heat-shrink tubing would be a good candidate for binding the two ends together. But that joint would need more support than heat-shrink can provide. Maybe heat-shrink AND rubber hose would do the trick.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 45
Likes: 1
Well it was going well until I tried to connect the smaller single strand to the older multistrand. No matter how I did it, I could not get light to transfer. There just isn't enough coming through that small stuff to the multistrand. I will live without it. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 925
Likes: 200
From: TX
Well it was going well until I tried to connect the smaller single strand to the older multistrand. No matter how I did it, I could not get light to transfer. There just isn't enough coming through that small stuff to the multistrand. I will live without it. Thanks for all the suggestions.
I hate to see you give up on this unique feature of our cars. I was not ready to go for lectric limited's $200 answer but I wanted my right running light to at least glimmer on the shift plate. I found a place I believe is called Apex Electric. Cant find my receipt, but it was about 6 bucks for some small brass ferrules, some hard plastic tubing and 2' of fiber optic cable.
Make a clean vertical cut with a razor blade of the old cable and jam that into the brass ferrule, then jam the new cable into the ferule until it meets the old cable. The new cable is slightly smaller. Slide the plastic tubing over the ferrule and gently heat. This will give you a stable splice. Each splice will cut your light transfer by about 50%. I had two splices. The picture attached shows what it looks like at night. When you have the blinker on it is very bright!!
Maybe take another shot at it!!
VS
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 45
Likes: 1
I did try the super glue method with the rubber hose joint method. I used a brand new flat razor to cut the cables clean and a diamond nail file to polish them flat and even. Individually that work well against a light source but not when butted together.
So, I have a 2-3mm fiber cable in the harness and like a 0.7 - 0.9mm patch cable. This clearly is a deficiency in the amount of light. I tried to find Apex but there wasn't anything under that name that sold fiber cables or splices etc.
So I broadened the search to try and find: 1) a wider fiber optic cable, 2) a real connector for these things. I found a few sources of both but...
The issue is I don't know all the connector jargon so I need to read more on this. If anyone understands this field and can help me get the correct cable matched with the correct connectors (male and Female) I would really appreciate that.https://www.civillaser.com/index.php...roducts_id=683
So, I have a 2-3mm fiber cable in the harness and like a 0.7 - 0.9mm patch cable. This clearly is a deficiency in the amount of light. I tried to find Apex but there wasn't anything under that name that sold fiber cables or splices etc.
So I broadened the search to try and find: 1) a wider fiber optic cable, 2) a real connector for these things. I found a few sources of both but...
The issue is I don't know all the connector jargon so I need to read more on this. If anyone understands this field and can help me get the correct cable matched with the correct connectors (male and Female) I would really appreciate that.https://www.civillaser.com/index.php...roducts_id=683
Last edited by Beltran; Feb 7, 2019 at 08:20 PM. Reason: added url
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Sounds like you have tried all the available options. With all the fiber optic data lines/systems these days, there have to be ways to effectively join damaged lines. Surely, they don't just scrap what is in place and run a new line every time one needs repair!?
Isn't there some F/O cable repair guy out there who owns an early C3 Corvette??
Isn't there some F/O cable repair guy out there who owns an early C3 Corvette??
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 925
Likes: 200
From: TX
Beltran
Sorry to leave you hanging.
I finally found my receipt for products I bought to make my fiber optic splices.
Go to fiberopticproducts website
Buy some fiber optic simplex cable, Product #E1000. Its 55 cents a foot so buy all you think you might possibly need. Its OD is 3/32".
Buy some splice tubes, Product 51-1. They are plastic and designed to work with simplex E1000 cable. 25 cents. They are a tight fit on the cable in your vette once you get the retention clip on.
Buy a bunch of retention clips, Product 46-1. 25cents apiece I think. They are just little brass ferrules you use to firmly hold the butt splice together. They fit the E1000 great but you will need to expand them a bit to get the vette cable inside.
Remember to put the splice tube on the cable before you make the splice. The tube keeps the cables perfectly straight looking into each other.
This worked to my satisfaction and wasn't too much effort. Not bad for six bucks. Cheapest thing I have done on the vette. :-)
VERYSOON
Sorry to leave you hanging.
I finally found my receipt for products I bought to make my fiber optic splices.
Go to fiberopticproducts website
Buy some fiber optic simplex cable, Product #E1000. Its 55 cents a foot so buy all you think you might possibly need. Its OD is 3/32".
Buy some splice tubes, Product 51-1. They are plastic and designed to work with simplex E1000 cable. 25 cents. They are a tight fit on the cable in your vette once you get the retention clip on.
Buy a bunch of retention clips, Product 46-1. 25cents apiece I think. They are just little brass ferrules you use to firmly hold the butt splice together. They fit the E1000 great but you will need to expand them a bit to get the vette cable inside.
Remember to put the splice tube on the cable before you make the splice. The tube keeps the cables perfectly straight looking into each other.
This worked to my satisfaction and wasn't too much effort. Not bad for six bucks. Cheapest thing I have done on the vette. :-)
VERYSOON
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 17
From: Georgia
Speaking from experience in the telephone industry ....it takes meticulous preparation to achieve a proper fiber splice. The guys that do this have a special cleaver that chops the end of the fiber as square and clean as possible to prevent fracturing of the glass. This is done under a microscope and to achieve maximum light transfer. An isometric splice is then installed to hold the butted ends together along with special adhesive. I know this is totally impracticable when it applies to a vette but the point I want to make is that preparation is the key. Don't try to file the end of the fiber, it will only cause more light loss. A clean..square cut is all you need with the ends butted close...square. ..and tight. Use a fresh blade for each cut....you want to minimize fracturing. If you see a telephone guy in the neighborhood. .he might have some of the isometric splices on his truck that he would "lend" to you .
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 925
Likes: 200
From: TX
After you make your first splice check it with a flashlight, as described above. Light? Yes? Good. Finish the patch with the second splice. The running light will be bright enough to see at night. The blinker will be very visible even in daytime!
Good luck, bon champs!!
VS
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