Differential Crossmember Removal
#41
Le Mans Master
A related question.
I've never done this before and would like to know now:
Is it easier to replace the forward Differential Bushing (Snubber) with the Crossmember/Carrier attached or without the Crossmember/Carrier attached (and supported with a jack)?
Thank you in advance.
Steve
I've never done this before and would like to know now:
Is it easier to replace the forward Differential Bushing (Snubber) with the Crossmember/Carrier attached or without the Crossmember/Carrier attached (and supported with a jack)?
Thank you in advance.
Steve
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Cavu2u (02-24-2019)
#42
Race Director
A related question.
I've never done this before and would like to know now:
Is it easier to replace the forward Differential Bushing (Snubber) with the Crossmember/Carrier attached or without the Crossmember/Carrier attached (and supported with a jack)?
Thank you in advance.
Steve
I've never done this before and would like to know now:
Is it easier to replace the forward Differential Bushing (Snubber) with the Crossmember/Carrier attached or without the Crossmember/Carrier attached (and supported with a jack)?
Thank you in advance.
Steve
The following users liked this post:
Cavu2u (02-24-2019)
#43
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Snubber
Thanks very much for the advice! I'll tackle that job before proceeding with the Carrier installation.
BTW, I've been reading many threads about replacements, and it seems NO ONE, that I could find anyway, is a fan of Polyurethane for the snubber. The thread that really bothered me was the report of Universal Joint interference with a body structure because of the polyurethane bushing's shorter height than the rubber OEM's height.
I've got the information, just not the experience with it.
Steve
P.S.; I noticed #13 described as L. Washer, believing it to mean Lock Washer. I removed flat washers there. Digging deeper, found GM 446212 was superseded with GM 120395, a Flat Washer.
I'm going with new flat washers.
BTW, I've been reading many threads about replacements, and it seems NO ONE, that I could find anyway, is a fan of Polyurethane for the snubber. The thread that really bothered me was the report of Universal Joint interference with a body structure because of the polyurethane bushing's shorter height than the rubber OEM's height.
I've got the information, just not the experience with it.
Steve
P.S.; I noticed #13 described as L. Washer, believing it to mean Lock Washer. I removed flat washers there. Digging deeper, found GM 446212 was superseded with GM 120395, a Flat Washer.
I'm going with new flat washers.
Last edited by Cavu2u; 02-24-2019 at 02:46 PM.
#44
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
In removing the snubber today, found this:
It looked so good from the outside, I wasn't going to bother changing it. But I thought "Hell, I'm in it this far: I'm changing it no matter what it looks like."
The lower large one.
The top bushing.
Never heard a squeak yet using this stuff.
WHY is this sleeve so much larger than the bolt it houses? Does NOT seem right.
Steve
It looked so good from the outside, I wasn't going to bother changing it. But I thought "Hell, I'm in it this far: I'm changing it no matter what it looks like."
The lower large one.
The top bushing.
Never heard a squeak yet using this stuff.
WHY is this sleeve so much larger than the bolt it houses? Does NOT seem right.
Steve
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Cavu2u (02-25-2019)
#46
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hey, gotta bitch about sumthn.
Only thing I can think of, in their designing, is "Let the bushings disintegrate; keep the metal mounting undamaged."
I'll bitch about this too: Having a very hard time lining up that forward Differential hole with the Carrier tongue holes in order to start that mounting bolt through. Just loosened the aft bolt. I believe the bolt's unique "nose" on it's threaded end lends itself to hammerin it out. But trying to pry the Differential Nose/U-Joint down, so as to get holes even close to lining up is proving difficult. Prying down on the Differential's nose against the battery box is a poor idea. Maybe a ratcheting strap against a 2x4 placed against the car's flooring, IF there's room? Figure it out tomorrow.
Maybe.
Anyway, this may have been the source of the annoying rumble this thread is all about eliminating. But, surviving +67 years on this planet, I've learned never to be ****-sure about anything mechanical, and that things aren't always what they appear to be.
Steve
#48
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Done.
When installing the Carrier/Crossmember to the Differential, those studs couldn't work, because the clearance between the body and the crossmember was nil. Needed a second person to start a couple of bolts for installation while I held the unit up to the Differential, with the gasket glued to the cover. Once done, a jack was used to raise the unit up to engage the Crossmember's cushions to the frame. Next, oil was added. Then the Leaf Spring went in (man, that thing is heavy!). Installed Leaf End Bushings/Bolts, attached Muffler Hangers and Spare Tire Cover, Wheels, then removed the Jackstands. The 4 Leaf Retainer Bracket Bolts were then so loose, their Lock Washers could spin. Large exhaust pipes made it impossible for a torque wrench socket to fit, so had to just estimate the tightness and evenness of the 70 ft/lbs required. May have to readjust Camber. Finally, Spare Tire Tube/Tire installed.
Yup, replacement of the Carrier Cushions can be done as Ed T suggested.
If you ever mess up threads on a bolt, and they are so badly damaged that a die can't get started, try an upside down Castellated Nut for thread cleanup before giving up and buying a new bolt. For some reason it worked amazingly well for me.
Last edited by Cavu2u; 03-02-2019 at 08:22 AM.
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Cavu2u (03-02-2019)
#51
Burning Brakes
Well done, Steve!
Although I lack the skills and equipment to do this job, it was great to learn how the car was built and to apply some of your techniques to other repairs I can do.
Another 73 kept on the road!
Fran
Although I lack the skills and equipment to do this job, it was great to learn how the car was built and to apply some of your techniques to other repairs I can do.
Another 73 kept on the road!
Fran
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Cavu2u (03-02-2019)
#52
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks Fran.
Steve
#53
Burning Brakes
Hi all, does this work for a 76 to remove the cross member from the frame, as well? I already have the half shafts detached from the differential and the differential removed from the cross member. The exhaust is removed from underneath the car. The spring and strut arms are still attached to the differential but I believe I have the differential moved low enough to get the cross member out once I figure out how got get it removed from the frame.
Last edited by hgoodwiniii; 01-22-2020 at 02:07 AM.
#55
Le Mans Master
Hi all, does this work for a 76 to remove the cross member from the frame, as well? I already have the half shafts detached from the differential and the differential removed from the cross member. The exhaust is removed from underneath the car. The spring and strut arms are still attached to the differential but I believe I have the differential moved low enough to get the cross member out once I figure out how got get it removed from the frame.
Removing the differential, spring, struts and such giving you a safe/workable space is my advise as "while your at it" adage comes to mind to install a new snubber gasket and such while you're at it. May require more time but really not much (emergency room prices have gone up) cost to do this I just remember even with having the body off my car that crossmember requires workable space to do it safely.
Good Luck & Better safe than sorry
Here's a couple of diagrams for what it's worth.
#56
Burning Brakes
Thanks. Yes, I've have a new snubber gasket to install; Does the crossmember need to be pressed back on or does it just set back into place when the bolts are tighten?
#59
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2011
Location: North of Toronto - Ontario
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Is the car off the frame? I'm really wondering how you got the differential unbolted from the crossmember with it still in place?
I'm not sure what the snubber gasket is I guess
Anyway, here's a thread with some removal idea. It does cover some of the removal (two jaw puller works better than the wedges I used) and install
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ossmember.html
M
I'm not sure what the snubber gasket is I guess
Anyway, here's a thread with some removal idea. It does cover some of the removal (two jaw puller works better than the wedges I used) and install
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ossmember.html
M
#60
Burning Brakes
Is the car off the frame? I'm really wondering how you got the differential unbolted from the crossmember with it still in place?
I'm not sure what the snubber gasket is I guess
Anyway, here's a thread with some removal idea. It does cover some of the removal (two jaw puller works better than the wedges I used) and install
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ossmember.html
M
I'm not sure what the snubber gasket is I guess
Anyway, here's a thread with some removal idea. It does cover some of the removal (two jaw puller works better than the wedges I used) and install
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ossmember.html
M
The snubber gasket is actual a rubber seal that mounts the front of the differential to the frame of the car. The part number is 25-103084-1; I believe I got mine from Mid America. Mine was toast.
Last edited by hgoodwiniii; 01-23-2020 at 07:26 AM.