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the rear of it fits underneath the leading edge of the sill plate.
there is one long screw on the forward edge of the kick panel that screws into the body.
the rear of it fits underneath the leading edge of the sill plate.
there is one long screw on the forward edge of the kick panel that screws into the body.
Thanks very much...dont suppose you can point to where the screw is? I do understand about the sill plate...
FWIW: check the factory AC section of the AIM (C60). Factory air required the RH kick panel to be trimmed and that may have changed the position of the trim screw.
That kick panel piece is from a car with medium blue interior. Your other parts are Bright Blue. Find some Bright Blue interior vinyl day and recolor that kickpanel to match as you are finishing up the carpet work. Good luck!
That kick panel piece is from a car with medium blue interior. Your other parts are Bright Blue. Find some Bright Blue interior vinyl day and recolor that kickpanel to match as you are finishing up the carpet work. Good luck!
My plan (now that I have them removed) is to take a bunch of interior parts and have them all dyed the same color blue. Also thought about buying those kick panels are re-pop and seeing what that blue looks like compared to my current door panel. Seems to be chasing a perfection that won't ever be achieved but it sure is fun to learn and to do!
You guys on this forum are amazing and your info for a true rookie like me has been VERY much appreciated!
That kickpanel is a GM stock part, but came from a car with medium blue interior. It may have been swapped when a PO installed the Vintage Air A/C unit. Just recolor it.
That kickpanel is a GM stock part, but came from a car with medium blue interior. It may have been swapped when a PO installed the Vintage Air A/C unit. Just recolor it.
Yes! That would be my guess...the previous owner did in fact install a vintage air A/C unit about ten years ago. Anyone recommend a dyeing company here in DFW? I’ve never dyed pieces and from what I have read, it doesn’t appear to be the easiest prep and task ever (I’m not lazy, just don’t have the equipment and don’t want to screw it all up).
Recoloring [or dyeing] an interior part is one of the easiest projects a person can have on these old C3's. Personally, I would not use 'rattle can' dyes; but if you find one with the correct 'Bright Blue' [metallic] color, go for it. I get liquid vinyl dye mixed to order at a professional auto body paint supply store. If you don't have spray equipment, purchase a simple 'gas/bottle' sprayer for about $10 (Pre-Val brand). You can also find them at regular paint supply stores (Sherwin-Williams, etc). Put some dye in the bottle, screw on the gas canister and SHOOT!
Easy as that. You do need to clean the part WELL to get rid of all old dirt, grease, Armor-All , but you don't need to shoot any kind of prep stuff on the part if it has been cleaned and dried well and if you purchase decent quality vinyl dye. If you have dye left in the bottle when you get done, just pour it back into the can and clean the bottle and sprayer by putting some lacquer thinner in the bottle, swirling it around and shooting it on a piece of cardboard until it shoots almost clear. You can reuse the gas canister until it runs out of gas. Additional gas canisters are inexpensive. Using this method, the total cost of recoloring your entire interior would be no more than a quart of mixed vinyl dye, a Pre-Val kit, some lacquer thinner, and maybe 6 gas canisters: less than $100. And you still have lots of dye left for occasional surface damage repair.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 19, 2019 at 11:54 AM.
Recoloring [or dyeing] an interior part is one of the easiest projects a person can have on these old C3's. Personally, I would not use 'rattle can' dyes; but if you find one with the correct 'Bright Blue' [metallic] color, go for it. I get liquid vinyl dye mixed to order at a professional auto body paint supply store. If you don't have spray equipment, purchase a simple 'gas/bottle' sprayer for about $10 (Pre-Val brand). You can also find them at regular paint supply stores (Sherwin-Williams, etc). Put some dye in the bottle, screw on the gas canister and SHOOT!
Easy as that. You do need to clean the part WELL to get rid of all old dirt, grease, Armor-All , but you don't need to shoot any kind of prep stuff on the part if it has been cleaned and dried well and if you purchase decent quality vinyl dye. If you have dye left in the bottle when you get done, just pour it back into the can and clean the bottle and sprayer by putting some lacquer thinner in the bottle, swirling it around and shooting it on a piece of cardboard until it shoots almost clear. You can reuse the gas canister until it runs out of gas. Additional gas canisters are inexpensive. Using this method, the total cost of recoloring your entire interior would be no more than a quart of mixed vinyl dye, a Pre-Val kit, some lacquer thinner, and maybe 6 gas canisters: less than $100. And you still have lots of dye left for occasional surface damage repair.
Wow...is there any requirements for curing (time, temperature)? From everything I read and watched on youtube, I guess I assumed it was going to be very difficult with the prep, the equipment (which I obviously don't yet own), spraying etc. I think I will do exactly as you describe and try it on a few smaller (and less noticeable) parts like the kickplate mentioned originally. THANK YOU!!
I prefer to use SEM liquid dye. It is very thin...almost the consistency of water..., but with very dense pigment. It sprays on easily and covers well. If you spray too heavy, it can run. If so, don't try to wipe it; just let it dry. Most likely you will not see any image of a run when it dries. Dry time is in minutes (less than 10) and you can shoot another coat after that amount of time. Two coats is plenty to recolor any interior part....regardless of what color the part it now and what you want it to be (black-to white, ie).
Your idea of practicing on another 'scrap' vinyl part is a good one. A bit of practice to familiarize yourself with the process is all you need. Good luck.
Recoloring [or dyeing] an interior part is one of the easiest projects a person can have on these old C3's. Personally, I would not use 'rattle can' dyes; but if you find one with the correct 'Bright Blue' [metallic] color, go for it. I get liquid vinyl dye mixed to order at a professional auto body paint supply store. If you don't have spray equipment, purchase a simple 'gas/bottle' sprayer for about $10 (Pre-Val brand). You can also find them at regular paint supply stores (Sherwin-Williams, etc). Put some dye in the bottle, screw on the gas canister and SHOOT!
Easy as that. You do need to clean the part WELL to get rid of all old dirt, grease, Armor-All , but you don't need to shoot any kind of prep stuff on the part if it has been cleaned and dried well and if you purchase decent quality vinyl dye. If you have dye left in the bottle when you get done, just pour it back into the can and clean the bottle and sprayer by putting some lacquer thinner in the bottle, swirling it around and shooting it on a piece of cardboard until it shoots almost clear. You can reuse the gas canister until it runs out of gas. Additional gas canisters are inexpensive. Using this method, the total cost of recoloring your entire interior would be no more than a quart of mixed vinyl dye, a Pre-Val kit, some lacquer thinner, and maybe 6 gas canisters: less than $100. And you still have lots of dye left for occasional surface damage repair.
Has anyone had any luck with the Corvette America (or Ecklers or Zip or whomever) dye and prep products?