Painless Harness 101
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Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 64
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From: Huffman, TX
Painless Harness 101
To those of you who have used a painless kit in your C3, can you share some information?
I am asking because I am performing a frame-off restoration and LS/T-56 swap on my car (1980, factory 4 speed). My stock harness is in what I would consider to be average shape for its age. With the LS Swap, I am running Holley HP EFI and Holley's digital dash, so much of the dash wiring will not be used in my application. My car is a factory A/C and Defrost with Power Windows and Door Locks. I will be retaining all of that functionality. I know I can go purchase new factory harnesses from Lectric Limited, but they are expensive, and I feel like I would be immediately cutting up most of what I payed for, so if there is an option out there that will work and let me just wire what I need, I think I'd be better off.
I did call Painless's tech support and was told they don't have anything for these cars. I know others have installed painless kits in the past - hence my question.
I was looking at Painless's Pro-kit p/n 10413 as it uses a GM style bulkhead connector fuse block and comes with many GM-type connectors.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Evan
- What kit did you use?
- Did the fuse panel fit in the stock location?
- What are your car specifics?
- Year?
- Engine?
- Transmission?
I am asking because I am performing a frame-off restoration and LS/T-56 swap on my car (1980, factory 4 speed). My stock harness is in what I would consider to be average shape for its age. With the LS Swap, I am running Holley HP EFI and Holley's digital dash, so much of the dash wiring will not be used in my application. My car is a factory A/C and Defrost with Power Windows and Door Locks. I will be retaining all of that functionality. I know I can go purchase new factory harnesses from Lectric Limited, but they are expensive, and I feel like I would be immediately cutting up most of what I payed for, so if there is an option out there that will work and let me just wire what I need, I think I'd be better off.
I did call Painless's tech support and was told they don't have anything for these cars. I know others have installed painless kits in the past - hence my question.
I was looking at Painless's Pro-kit p/n 10413 as it uses a GM style bulkhead connector fuse block and comes with many GM-type connectors.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Evan
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,279
Likes: 687
I've used the 22 circuit universal wiring kit from Painless. Installed three or four times. The last one I used was in my 68 C10 LS/T56 swap.The universal kits have really dated instructions. Same one for the last 15? years. I found them a bit confusing.
With the kit you are considering the instructions have been updated. I haven.t used one yet but over on the Pro-Touring forums Painless responded to questions and said that kit was up dated.
I typically throw away all the blue crimp connectors they include and use the heat shrink crimp connectors. I buy them in bulk at Fastenal. I think those blue crimp connectors look cheesy.
I like to use the plastic braided wire covering. I think I looks better than the plastic convoluted stuff.
I would suggest a stock C3 wiring diagram so you can figure out the grounds and 12 volt connections. Save all the stock connectors for reuse.
Painless does have a very good tech staff. They were very helpful.
Once installed it worked well.
With the kit you are considering the instructions have been updated. I haven.t used one yet but over on the Pro-Touring forums Painless responded to questions and said that kit was up dated.
I typically throw away all the blue crimp connectors they include and use the heat shrink crimp connectors. I buy them in bulk at Fastenal. I think those blue crimp connectors look cheesy.
I like to use the plastic braided wire covering. I think I looks better than the plastic convoluted stuff.
I would suggest a stock C3 wiring diagram so you can figure out the grounds and 12 volt connections. Save all the stock connectors for reuse.
Painless does have a very good tech staff. They were very helpful.
Once installed it worked well.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 64
Likes: 18
From: Huffman, TX
Thanks for the information. I agree, the Painless kit appears well made, and the instructions are very thorough.
I agree with you, the blue crimp connectors do look tacky. I wired a 56 Bel Air station wagon from scratch many years ago. It was a simple car - no PW, PDL, A/C, or even Heater, so all I basically had to do was lights, gauges, and ignition/starter. I used the blue crimp connectors, but pulled the blue plastic off, crimped the wire, then soldered, and used heat shrink. It actually looked ok done like that - probably about like using the Fastenal connectors.
I am still hoping to hear from someone who has installed one on a C3. When I spoke with Painless's tech support they said that none of their fuse blocks physically fit in the car. I am assuming they do since some people have used them in the past, I am just trying to find out which one.
I agree with you, the blue crimp connectors do look tacky. I wired a 56 Bel Air station wagon from scratch many years ago. It was a simple car - no PW, PDL, A/C, or even Heater, so all I basically had to do was lights, gauges, and ignition/starter. I used the blue crimp connectors, but pulled the blue plastic off, crimped the wire, then soldered, and used heat shrink. It actually looked ok done like that - probably about like using the Fastenal connectors.
I am still hoping to hear from someone who has installed one on a C3. When I spoke with Painless's tech support they said that none of their fuse blocks physically fit in the car. I am assuming they do since some people have used them in the past, I am just trying to find out which one.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 86
From: Rotonda FL
I used Painless's 20102 on my 77. This was intended for late 60's GM muscle cars (not Corvette specific), but color codes were correct, column connections were correct, and fuse panel fit perfectly in place of the original. The only challenge was interference between the fuse box and the cable through the firewall to open the hood.
FWIW, I had replaced the HVAC with Vintage Air and the headlights (electric open/close) had been rewired with relays to provide them with more current and there was a Mark VII high amp electric fan in place.
FWIW, I had replaced the HVAC with Vintage Air and the headlights (electric open/close) had been rewired with relays to provide them with more current and there was a Mark VII high amp electric fan in place.
Last edited by Rotonda; Feb 22, 2019 at 06:02 AM. Reason: Addition
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 64
Likes: 18
From: Huffman, TX
I used Painless's 20102 on my 77. This was intended for late 60's GM muscle cars (not Corvette specific), but color codes were correct, column connections were correct, and fuse panel fit perfectly in place of the original. The only challenge was interference between the fuse box and the cable through the firewall to open the hood.
FWIW, I had replaced the HVAC with Vintage Air and the headlights (electric open/close) had been rewired with relays to provide them with more current and there was a Mark VII high amp electric fan in place.
FWIW, I had replaced the HVAC with Vintage Air and the headlights (electric open/close) had been rewired with relays to provide them with more current and there was a Mark VII high amp electric fan in place.
Thanks for the information! That is exactly what I was looking for.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 183
From: Port St. Lucie Fl
Unless you buy a kit for a specific car you are buying a universal kit that only supplies the power for each circuit, any additional wires or harnesses needed to make your pw pl wipers work correctly will either need to be added by you or reuse the original. I replaced the entire harness in my 79 with a universal kit from another manufacturer, very similar to painless. Unless you get a kit that bulk head connector splits you will need to find a way to seal the firewall where the harness comes through. I used this kit along with the harness for my Holley EFI and a pigtail for the 7004r lockup.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,071
Likes: 86
From: Rotonda FL
Thanks! Interesting, when I type in 20102 on their website, it pulls up the 10413 kit that I had been looking at. When I look up the 60 muscle car pro kit, it says this: This harness supercedes p/n 20102 - giving you an updated nicer harness at a lower cost!
Thanks for the information! That is exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks for the information! That is exactly what I was looking for.
This 25 circuit harness was designed to fit 1969-1974 GM muscle cars. This
harness features a pre-wired factory style bulkhead connector that plugs
directly into the back of the fuse block in the factory location. Factory original
quick connect terminals are included for the in dash printed circuit board.
Pre-terminated plugs for a column mounted ignition switch, dimmer switch,
headlights & headlight switch, blower motor, wiper motor, and turn signal
switch. Included with this harness you’ll also find a detailed manual and each
wire is custom printed with the circuit identification as well as using GM color
codes for easy installation.
20102 - 25 Circuit Classic-Plus Customizable
Above is the description and photo of the Painless 20102 1969-74 GM Muscle Car Chassis Harness and fuse box I used in my 77. This appears SIMILAR!!! to the Painless 10413 25 circuit fuse box/kit as described by painless.
I have a downloaded Painless catalog with all of the 20102 info in it. I would be happy to sent it to you if you PM me your email. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to PM me.
Last edited by Rotonda; Feb 23, 2019 at 07:45 AM. Reason: addition
