When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I asked my glass guy when he installed mine and said it was not needed, he just put a thick triangle like bead around the frame and gently pushed the glass down. Turned out great, I did all the work of getting it ready, he just put some primer around the frame for the adhesive and I helped him set the glass in, all for $275.
IT IS NEEDED for a correct restoration, which is about the only reason to go through the trouble... I use them when I install glass in restorations which originally had them.
I just have finished replacing my 1971 windshield, and this stuff was perfect. it is very dense foam, and held the windshield at the perfect height while the urethane cured. All the trim fit the glass perfectly.
Really made a difference for me. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CRL-Single-...97.m4902.l9144
it also sets the windshield height above the frame. much like the butyl rope used to do. a squirted bead can be pushed flat and/or put on too thin and glass will be below the trim.
it also sets the windshield height above the frame. much like the butyl rope used to do. a squirted bead can be pushed flat and/or put on too thin and glass will be below the trim.
Derek,
The butyl rope or windshield sealer and the dam are two different things. The Dam, and the part that Pilkington says costs near $400 is a lightweight foam tape not unlike foam weatherstrip from Lowes.
Look here, post 182
Edit: Ok wait, I stand corrected, Derek is right. I did use a generic windshield dam off eBay. I bought two different thicknesses and I can't remember which I used but it's prob in the link I posted. It does serve to hide the metal frame from view around the dash and interior trim. But it also helps to set the height that glass is set at. Also be careful not to let the glass settle too far down towards the cowl or you can run into a clearance problem with the wiper crank!!! Only takes once for it to come around and destroy the nice windshield job. Better too high by 1/8 than too low by 1/64th. I used plastic shims on the bottom windshield stops.
i dunno if 1/4 wide or 1/4 tall. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Ki...25BK/202844545 maybe try the ebay stuff. high density foam may stand up to being squished flatter better than the standard stuff. plus you need to figure out what depth you need. i had my windshield done by a regular windshield guy and he squirted on a bead and dropped the windshield. 1/4 too low. i am gonna have to figure out a way to fudge the windshield trim. here is hi density ebay stuff. 3/8 thick. you may have to find the right thickness and cut it thinner either before or after sticking it to the car. https://www.ebay.com/itm/28415710221...QAAOSwpTtgCxIi
another thought. butyl rope. use it as dam. dam sticky dam. put the urethane bead around it and hope you never hafta pull the windshield again. another thought. there is another school of thought that feels the butyl rope is good enough by itself. GM actually said so for years. dam. i recall the numbers 3/8 with modern glass. 5/16 with orig glass. new glass is thinner.
Last edited by derekderek; Jul 21, 2021 at 04:31 PM.
Derek is correct. 3/8” and 5/16” diameter butyl tape are both available. Try your local paint supply store that does automotive paints and supplies. You don’t have much room for tape and urethane on the A-pillars. Don’t worry about cutting the glass out from the butyl, that isn’t very strong. But the urethane beside it will have a good grip.