Have to take off my dual plane edelbrock performer manifold to change the gasket, have a slight leak....

Was thinking since I had it off, I was wondering if an air gap dual plane is better...

Basically its a 350 .040 over with heads, cam, headers, 750 CFM etc etc...

Correct me if I'm wrong, is there an rpm air gap manifold and a performer rpm air gap manifold ? Or, are they one in the same?

If there's two, which I believe there are, which one would make more power? I'm sure if one does as opposed to the other , most likely would be slight...Yet, slight is better than less...

My car is not a track car just a basic muscle car for the street....Is it worth changing over....My old manifold has been in my Vette for ten years now so its really weathered ...Was thinking of cleaning up and painting because it would clean up well but started reading about the air gap manifolds dual plane..
I guess a changeover couldn't hurt..Is it worth it?

 

I dont think the airgap really makes a difference. It will make a little more upstairs than your performer
Weiand, Dart make some nice dual planes. Avoid the chinese stuff...some are known to have smaller runners

 

Is a couple of HP (that you probably won't feel) worth $286.95?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7501/overview/

Don't forget hood clearance with our cars. The Performer fits. The Performer RPM and RPM Air Gap are the same height and you have to either use a seriously short air cleaner or drop base air cleaner to fit. So, what you gain with the manifold, you may lose with the air cleaner.

There is a Performer Air Gap but like you said, what do you give up with the shorter manifold. And, it may still be taller than the Performer and you end up with clearance issues..

If I needed a manifold, I would probably spring for the Air Gap RPM and use a Moroso Drop Base Racing Aircleaner. That air cleaner worked with an RPM manifold and stock hood on my '75. Your call.

 

I just switched intakes from a performer 2101 to a Performer RPM air gap. I'm running a mild 350 with AFR heads and Comp XR274HR cam and it made a noticeable difference in power in my car. However the factory 1970 drop base air cleaner barely fits under the hood with a 3 inch filter.

 

I went from an early version of the Edelbrock Torker to the Perfomer RPM Air Gap, there is also a Performer RPM no air gap and a Performer Air Gap. I think it is a great intake but I have an L88 hood with the factory open element drop base air cleaner with a 4" filter. You ask whether it is worth it depends on what has already been done to your engine. Your current intake is designed for the rpm range idle to 5,500. The RPM manifolds are designed for 1,500 to 6,500 rpm so can you take advantage of the higher rpm capability and except a minor loss between idle and 1,500?

 

Hmm.....I'm already running a drop base with my 3 inch K&N....I'm more interested in seat of the pants feel than numbers....

I'm pretty sure the air gap manifold is half an inch taller than my performer..Would have to check clearance before anything....

Tried using a regular base for my air cleaner and that did not work...

 

 

Please note when looking at the numbers in the above article the Air Gap is the Performer Air Gap not the Performer RPM Air Gap.

 

You need to do a lot of homework on manifold heights. If you visit Edelbrocks web site, you can find the Carb Pad height of any model for comparison.
I believe the 2101 is close to stock height. So, you will need to write down that carb pad height. Then check on the Air Gap 7501 and so on.

Your best bet is a Drop-base air cleaner. Those bottom parts are usually 1 1/2" lower than stock. And if push comes to shove, there are 2.5" tall filter cartridges.

The Air Gap has shown between 22 -25 horse gains on a dyno. But what's important here is not just the power gain but rather getting the carb and fuel line up and away from the heat. As all C3s owners know, fuel percolation has always been a thorn in your side. The Air Gap reduces carb base temps and is worth every penny to isolate the vapor lock issue.

And don't get scared off by Edelbrocks statements of: Will Not Fit Under Corvette Hood.
This is to cover their *** if customers are trying to use stock / snorkel cleaners.

And as with all intake / air cleaners mods, before slamming the hood, remove the air cleaner stud and lid. Close hood gently. Then add lid, repeat. Then add stud / wingnut and place a gob of Silly Putty on the wingnut, close hood.

 

I'm going to put a half inch disc on top of my set up now and see if hood closes...The air gap is taller than the regular performer...

20-25 HP than a regular performer RPM ? Don't know about that..Would be nice..

 

 

I started with 400 HP on the dyno, added the special manifold +25hp, added the headers +35hp, added the 6AL2 +25hp , added the magic oil +15hp, special Air Filter +25 hp, new special water pump +25hp, now I should have over 525 hp... wow.... just need to change the wiper fluid for an extra 20hp.

Nope still 400 hp.... Weiand street warrior / 160 stat - no issues and car runs great... 3000 miles last summer. These test results are pretty good as posted in the pictures. They give the true readings, on the street torque will be your friend.

Vapor lock will come from not having a return line on the fuel pump. The fuel in the line between the pump and carb will boil - causing vapor to be there, and not fill the carb..

 

The 2101 shows 456 H.P. (and that's a little better that the GM)
The 7501 shows 474.
So there's +18 more.
With the right combo, the 7501 will vetch 20-25.

 

Just remember that they got these HP gains or losses with dyno tuning and ideal A/F. If you don't dyno and tweak the tune you may likely not make the same gains.

 

[QUOTE=HeadsU.P.;1598975778]The 2101 shows 456 H.P. (and that's a little better that the GM)
The 7501 shows 474.
So there's +18 more.
With the right combo, the 7501 will vetch 20-25.[/QUO

Yeah and which motors are they checking these on? A 350 making almost 500 HP? In what world?

 

[QUOTE=zrc3john;1598975810]Easily! Its more common than you think.
Just sayin' the 2101 is basically a stock intake copy. The 7501 is a superior design intake.

 

You know I have to double check if the manifold I have on it is a performer or performer RPM...I know one part # is 2101 while the other is 7101...

You think I would remember ...Right now the car has been in storage for the past two months and its not at my residence..

I would imagine the performer rpm manifold. # 7101 is a better design than the performer # 2101....

Question than - is performer rpm air gap better than both? From the info I have seen it appears to be a more advanced design...
So since I have to change the gasket on my manifold I will see if I make the switch...
I can always sell the one that's on my car now....Just needs to be cleaned up..

 

Test engine was a 406 SBC as per the article.

 

The highest HP intake on the short list is a ZZ4 take-off. Easy to find on eBay. Is there anything wrong with that as a solution? It even has a Chevy bowtie on it.

 

I don't know about a used one, but the new ZZ4 are $300 now days. (Air Gap $275)
It also has the Spreadbore flange. Which is ok for Quad-Js but not favorable for Holley.