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Old 03-10-2019, 08:19 PM
  #21  
cuisinartvette
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Birdcage-,metal that surrounds windshield, post that runs from there to the bottom of your kick panel
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Old 03-11-2019, 12:21 AM
  #22  
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Did you try cranking the engine with the cap off? Might be good to verify that the rotor is spinning.

Originally Posted by dzzman View Post
Theres no spark at all. I even braved it and held on to it expecting to get a jolt and nothing
I was going to suggest this but after doing myself a number of times, I no longer recommend it
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Old 03-11-2019, 03:57 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette View Post
Birdcage-,metal that surrounds windshield, post that runs from there to the bottom of your kick panel
What you can't see behind the fiberglass:



Usually rusts around the windshield frame and #2 body mount which is where the door hinges attach to. Since you don't have an interior you should easily be able to see #2 body mount area if the kick panels are missing.
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Old 03-11-2019, 09:47 AM
  #24  
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Looks like a missing connector that goes to the brown wire on cap

2 wires on right side not connected, and connector on left side??
Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette View Post
Did you try cranking the engine with the cap off? Might be good to verify that the rotor is spinning.



I was going to suggest this but after doing myself a number of times, I no longer recommend it
So heres what i got. Rotor is turning with some connections not made. Cant find any other connecters to plug these in
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Old 03-11-2019, 10:10 AM
  #25  
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did you remove the rotor and module? if not, they are needed. Here is a way to get all the missing parts. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Chev...MAAOSwax5YuL6U. BTW, the body looks less rusty on my laptop than on my phone.

Last edited by derekderek; 03-11-2019 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 03-11-2019, 10:30 AM
  #26  
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The white block is the module. Won’t give you a spark without it.


Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; 03-11-2019 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:26 AM
  #27  
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Ok so i got my new distributor installed. Not something i care to do again in the near future lol. I have spark!! Nice and blue. But now ive noticed the previous owner had a few plug wires crossed. 1 was on 2, 2 was on 8. I went ahead and got a new set of accel wires.Now im running into problems as to how the wires are routed, especially on passenger side. Theres so little room i cant tell which wires are which. So i got the driver side 1, 3, 5, and 7 where they need to be with the old wires. What a pain in the ***!! Is there any easier way to get these wires out? I cant get the boot to pass through where the motor mounts are

Last edited by dzzman; 03-13-2019 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 03-13-2019, 09:35 AM
  #28  
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Taking the rubber boot off the wire will help and you can try taping the old to the new and use that to pull it through, but yes it’s a pain.

On my old car, I eventually jacked up the motor and replaced the motor mounts to get the routing the way I wanted.
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:17 PM
  #29  
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So i got her fired up today! Plug wires in all the right spots. Wont start on its own. A little gas in the carb and it fires right up. I already had the fuel hoses and line up to the carb off before i started on the distributor. No gas coming out of those at all. The rubber fuel hoses were in bad shape. Ive replaced the 3/8 feed hose from the metal line to the pump, but i didnt grab a 1/4 vent hose, so ill pick that up soon. Been trying to crank her over with that vent line off, but no gas getting in the pump. I took the line up to the carb off the pump and the carb. Ive inspected the metal lines as best as i could back to the tank and cant really see any kinks or breaks
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:22 PM
  #30  
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So your car still have the ignition shielding that routs the wires behind the exhaust manifolds? All this does is shield the electrical noise the sparks can create in the radio and IMO not really needed. All my wires are routed like this and I'm running an MSD dizzy with the 6AL box and have zero radio noise.


If you are not into NCRS type originality take that stuff off. You can get some money for it too......bonus.
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:38 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by theandies View Post
So your car still have the ignition shielding that routs the wires behind the exhaust manifolds? All this does is shield the electrical noise the sparks can create in the radio and IMO not really needed. All my wires are routed like this and I'm running an MSD dizzy with the 6AL box and have zero radio noise.


If you are not into NCRS type originality take that stuff off. You can get some money for it too......bonus.
Yes, mine still has all the shields and nonsense. I see you have headers and the plug wires go straight down. I have stock manifolds and it just doesnt look like that setup will work, right now anyways. I do have some headers. Not sure if theyll fit, as the collector for the manifolds is more in the middle and the one for the headers would be toward back of the engine. And the starter and wires look like they could pose a problem too
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:55 PM
  #32  
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Yes, I have headers. I guess if you are using manifolds you have a point about the routing. BTW what year is your TA in the background? Looks like you have a nice little stable of '70s era muscle cars.
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by theandies View Post
Yes, I have headers. I guess if you are using manifolds you have a point about the routing. BTW what year is your TA in the background? Looks like you have a nice little stable of '70s era muscle cars.
Its a 79,numbers matching 6.6l. 90k original miles. My personal favorite car of all time. Id like to fully restore it with my son once he gets a little older. Also sorta waiting on a parts car for that one
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:20 PM
  #34  
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Nice!
I partial to the '78 TA's. I'd take a '79 if I "had to". Didn't really get into the aero-nose of the '79's. Should be a fun project to do with your kid.
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Old 03-13-2019, 08:52 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by dzzman View Post
So i got her fired up today! Plug wires in all the right spots. Wont start on its own. A little gas in the carb and it fires right up. I already had the fuel hoses and line up to the carb off before i started on the distributor. No gas coming out of those at all. The rubber fuel hoses were in bad shape. Ive replaced the 3/8 feed hose from the metal line to the pump, but i didnt grab a 1/4 vent hose, so ill pick that up soon. Been trying to crank her over with that vent line off, but no gas getting in the pump. I took the line up to the carb off the pump and the carb. Ive inspected the metal lines as best as i could back to the tank and cant really see any kinks or breaks
Help me out here because your post is alittle confusing. Is it starting and continuing to run unassisted after you put alittle gas into the carb or is running only as long as you keep feeding it gas through the carb?
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:22 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by kossuth View Post
Help me out here because your post is alittle confusing. Is it starting and continuing to run unassisted after you put alittle gas into the carb or is running only as long as you keep feeding it gas through the carb?
i put a little bit of gas in the carb it will start up first kick but wont stay running
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