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AFAIK ... OP is still trying to find what went wrong and has Not found root cause .... and AFAIK ... OP has not begun to "repair" anything yet. Hope Not as Unwise to start buying parts & pieces before you even know all that's truly wrong.
I have yet to see pics of valve train ASSEMBLED. Lotsa bits & pieces.
From beginning I've leaned toward coil bind or retainer crash as root cause ... but have yet to see complete coil bind evidence. Seems OP may go further into that today; Maybe we're close. But I'm not convinced ... yet.
I think he found it with the .020 number at full lift....I think he needs springs with a smaller coil....more room. If the retainer did crash it would destroy the valve seal so I am ruling that out an his numbers support that.
I am also ruling out piston to valve with a .500 lift cam.....but even as I am ruling this stuff out.....it still needs to be checked.
Yes it is on #1 intake valve.... one of the worst bent push rods.
Yeah...the collision caused damage. Pull the heads......disassemble and purchase matched components. A call to Comp will help.....
Inspect the seats for damage.....you may get by putting new valves in if they lap out nicely....
At this point I am afraid to inform you that you will be pulling the head(s)....
Was the scored roller one of the bent pushrods position as well?
Jebby
Originally Posted by Jebbysan
I think he found it with the .020 number at full lift....I think he needs springs with a smaller coil....more room. If the retainer did crash it would destroy the valve seal so I am ruling that out an his numbers support that.
I am also ruling out piston to valve with a .500 lift cam.....but even as I am ruling this stuff out.....it still needs to be checked.
Jebby
I do Not disagree.
But I have yet to see what is root cause. Is that 0.020" sum total? If so; coil bind IS a cause but may not be only culprit. In the end, looking like there may be a banner day at XCH.
I'd like to know the origin of the bad tip on intake #1. And ...was it assembled (freshened) that way?
IIRC, comp can rebuild/replace their rocker tips. Suggest also inspect rocker *****-cups for damage, discolor, galling, spalling etc.
But I have yet to see what is root cause. Is that 0.020" sum total? If so; coil bind IS a cause but may not be only culprit. In the end, looking like there may be a banner day at XCH.
I'd like to know the origin of the bad tip on intake #1. And ...was it assembled (freshened) that way?
IIRC, comp can rebuild/replace their rocker tips. Suggest also inspect rocker *****-cups for damage, discolor, galling, spalling etc.
The intake valve tip was damage from the bent push rod, which caused the rocker to have excessive lash, banging on the valve tip. Also the roller tip was not riding on the tip of the valve squarely.
Virtually every bbc head has umbrellas on it these days, including OE crate 502 461 hp engines. That is a crap load of bullets and very few engine builders left. Personally I leave exhaust seals out. OP has a bit over .6 clearance with seal, shims and all. Valve guides. Yes they are pressed in. But they are pressed in blank and machined after install. So the valve is not in the canter of the guide. You fix that guide correctly with an insert like any other iron head.
I would think with the miles these cars rack up these days, the valve stem tip could be cleaned up with a stone and would survive with a new rocker or roller tip.
I would think with the miles these cars rack up these days, the valve stem tip could be cleaned up with a stone and would survive with a new rocker or roller tip.
At this point I don't know what I should do.
Pull the heads??
I still don't know if the lifters are solid or hydraulic.
I'm pissed off!
This is getting deeper and deeper!
At this point I don't know what I should do.
Pull the heads??
I still don't know if the lifters are solid or hydraulic.
I'm pissed off!
This is getting deeper and deeper!
hydraulic lifter you can push the center of it down. I worked on heads in a machine shop early 70s as my main job and assembled engines. Do yourself a favor pull the heads off let a good machine shop look them over. I assume when you pulled the lifters you know which one goes with with each lobe and your cam lobes look good to you. On another point im 66 built engines age 16 before that motorcycles. I live less then 35 miles north of arlington texas and reher and morison. Im going diwn there ask them about putting umbrealla valve seals on my heads. After they stop rolling around on the floor laughing maybe if lucky they cant throw my 250 lb *** out the door.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 14, 2019 at 08:05 PM.
The lifters are hydraulic. You're no deeper than you were Going anyway. You need to to get down to where you were removing the valve Springs. https://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/911-16/10002/-1. These will work well with existing retainers and keepers. https://www.ebay.com/p/Engine-Valve-...90400bfff1f81b. These are everywhere. Make sure you get 3/8 stem and watch seal O/D to spring I/D. Oh yeah; pushrods. Geometry is good get the same length.
At this point I don't know what I should do.
Pull the heads??
I still don't know if the lifters are solid or hydraulic.
I'm pissed off!
This is getting deeper and deeper!
I feel your pain, I think you have two choices (imo).
Do the Jebby, me and others suggestion and fully degree the cam, yes it'll be a pain in the back but then you know where you are at, you need new PR's anyway (yes you could straighten them first and drive again, but being bent in the first place points to other issues), if you go through the degree process you'll verify correct pushrod length and a warm fuzzy about the cam timing being correct.
The other choice is jump in and pull the Heads, then you'll have a chance to make sure it's all good.
I'd push towards the first option, you'll need the tools anyway if the problem remains after pushrods are fixed/replced.
Last edited by suprspooky; Mar 14, 2019 at 08:21 PM.
Pull the heads off let the machine shop dissasemble them, check them for cracks betwen the valves, they will put a machinist strait edge across them. Look at your seats and valves and check your guides out. Small valve heads both sbc and bbc were pretty good about not cracking between the seats the big valve heads were. A little money spent up front is a lot better then doing the job over. Then you will be really pissed
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 14, 2019 at 08:38 PM.
Factory bbc used a 1.8 install spring height compared to 1.7 sbc. If you have only .505 total lift and you know that for sure. You have zero problem with retainer to guide, zero problem with spring coil bind, zero problem with valve to piston clearence. Something else caused your problem. Pull the friggen heads off.
1972 my farther bought a new 429 ford grand marqee. At 90 thousand miles i helped him pull the pan off it. Pan was full of rubber pieces including in the pickup screen. Every valve guide all 16 of the rubber umbrella valve seals had desintegraded from the engine oil heat over time. Not one of them was still intact. Zero as in nada.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 14, 2019 at 09:01 PM.
1972 my farther bought a new 429 ford grand marque. At 90 thousand miles i helped him pull the pan off it. Pan was full of rubber pieces including in the pickup screen. Every valve guide all 16 of the rubber umbrella valve seals had desintegraded from the engine oil heat over time. Not one of them was still intact.
if mine i would pull the heads. but i have a seat machine and a stack of head gaskets. have you done compression or leak down test yet? take heads to the shop and it is seats and guides and might as well put in 16 valves. that'll be 800 buck please. mebbe 1200. 1400 if they machine the guides for positive seals. are you trying to get into the 11's or are you driving around on nice weekend days? you can do leakdown without rockers and pushrods. you gonna spend 1400 on heads, might as well spend 2k on new aluminum heads. hell, 496 rotating assy. you need the pushrods-100 bucks, springs-100, rotator eliminators-30, seals-10 to 40 and a rocker or 2-20 to 50 whether you pull the heads or not. put it together. run it.
Last edited by derekderek; Mar 14, 2019 at 09:10 PM.
Lol. I know he has asked around for a non crooked machine shop has recomendations for one.need to find out what caused it or assume previous owner idiot driver. Already know he was an idiot had unbrella valve seals. Lol. Again there is zero as in nada with .505 lift cam in bbc of ratainer to guide, coil bind or valve ro piston. But then something bent the pushrods.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Mar 14, 2019 at 09:26 PM.