EFI install in a SB '73
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
What ever happened to The Wordless Workshop?
"If everyone else jumped off a cliff, would you too?" Kinda how I feel about this modification. A lot of people are doin it. It's a 383 and gets 11 mpg around town with a stock Rochester.
I'm concerned about the bracket between the Block and plate, which is attached to the Frame. Will engine start/vibration tear up the Plate after a short time (It's stainless steel)?
Also, the "Fuel Command Center" 's canister edge is not quite an inch from the closest Fan Blade.
Any thoughts on this installation is appreciated.
Steve
Last edited by Cavu2u; Mar 9, 2019 at 08:14 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
ONE word, stupid........I did my DPFI install on my '72 back in '95 using the 88-91? vette speed density computer 1227730, and L98 components, injection pump under tank in rear, stock lines to engine and back to tank....cost to do that today should be about 1/4 of a commercial DPFI unit.....
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
The engine does move quite a bit unless you have solid motor mounts. I would be concerned about it. Is it possible to put some kind of rubber isolates on the bracket to absorb some of the movement? I have not used the Command center, always went with electric pumps. I have heard some problems with the command center but others have said it works fine.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 97
Likes: 18
From: Mesa, AZ
My ‘72 came with the Fitech installed by the previous owner. He didn’ Even use the fuel command center, just an inline pump mounted to the frame near the tank. It seems to work fine, although I’m not particularly happy with how the fuel lines were routed and plan to redo them. I’m not sure if he was doing it on the cheap or didn’t have enough room (mine is an A/C car), but like I said, it seems to work. You could also go with electric fans to free up some room.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 496
Likes: 153
From: San Francisco Bay Area
Looks like a very clean install considering you’re limited on space considerations. I will be doing similar in the near future. However as others have pointed, the bracket attached to engine will add to the vibration and movement, both counter to your goal. Is it possible to run an additional type of support bracket from your radiator area?
Last edited by platinummaker; Mar 9, 2019 at 10:59 AM.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
ONE word, stupid........I did my DPFI install on my '72 back in '95 using the 88-91? vette speed density computer 1227730, and L98 components, injection pump under tank in rear, stock lines to engine and back to tank....cost to do that today should be about 1/4 of a commercial DPFI unit.....
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
The engine does move quite a bit unless you have solid motor mounts. I would be concerned about it. Is it possible to put some kind of rubber isolates on the bracket to absorb some of the movement? I have not used the Command center, always went with electric pumps. I have heard some problems with the command center but others have said it works fine.
Thanks.
Steve
Last edited by Cavu2u; Mar 9, 2019 at 11:56 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Looks like a very clean install considering you’re limited on space considerations. I will be doing similar in the near future. However as others have pointed, the bracket attached to engine will add to the vibration and movement, both counter to your goal. Is it possible to run an additional type of support bracket from your radiator area?
Just not enough height on the plate's other side, between the hood and the Shock Stud/A-Arm, which moves up of course going over a bump.
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 126
From: San Diego California
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
OH HELL YES, I drove it for about 6 months with the QJ on it and got maybe 18 on the freeways......~15 around town as I recall....Muncie 4 speed then...336 rear.....I used to have an '87 vette, and got an easy 24+ mpg so I went looking for a cheeeeeeeep DPFI install, so Carlisle car/vette show, I got an L98 induction complete, except wiring.....junkyard the injector/computer/sensor connectors, and did my own harness WAY before any aftermarket stuff was available....the '72 went to ~24 around town.....28 something on freeways, the move to Florida brought on automatic overdrive went 700 at first then the 200 in there now....needed the overdrive, and 80mph is a shift point into overdrive here.....
Racer
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 266
Likes: 52
Holley sniper system was fun to install on my 77. I put the pump in the tank. It was time consuming to set up. Pulling the tank out for the second time I was wishing I had gone with a fuel comand center.
I drive my vette much more now. Driving in traffic, in hot weather, cold weather, efi improves driveability tremendously. I eventually went to computer controlled timing by adding the holley distributor. Its interesting to hear the idle relearn each time I find a vacuum leak , change spark plugs or even replace fan belts.
I drive my vette much more now. Driving in traffic, in hot weather, cold weather, efi improves driveability tremendously. I eventually went to computer controlled timing by adding the holley distributor. Its interesting to hear the idle relearn each time I find a vacuum leak , change spark plugs or even replace fan belts.
The ORIGINAL and bestest
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 10,009
Likes: 240
From: Toronto Ontario
Toronto Events Coordinator
I wouldn’t feel comfortable with that installation method on my car, the engine does move, unless you have solid mounts.
Your cylinder heads have multiple bolt holes; fabricate an L bracket that captures more than one bolt hole on the cylinder head, which will then allow the device to be supported solely by the engine - or - come up with a new plan to support it entirely on the body and/or chassis.
Your cylinder heads have multiple bolt holes; fabricate an L bracket that captures more than one bolt hole on the cylinder head, which will then allow the device to be supported solely by the engine - or - come up with a new plan to support it entirely on the body and/or chassis.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,721
Likes: 108
From: Canada
I would move it. I understand that Fitech made some changes to the unit and have had fewer issues. If you are not happy with the CC send it back and if you are still commited to using the original fuel tank look into a C5 regulator or a RobbMc Performance surge tank.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,406
Likes: 8,212
From: Napa Valley California
I would think that the first time you put the car in gear and push on the accelerator the torque of the engine will rip the bracket from the A-arm or at the least bend the L bracket mounted on the head.
Either way this seems like an accident going to happen.
Either way this seems like an accident going to happen.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 697
Here's my.02.
First option.
Take the mounting plate that's bolted to the a-arm bolts and bend two 90 degree bends on the vertical sides of the mount. Maybe 1/2" wide. The bends will make it very strong. I'd also make it out 12 gauge sheet metal. What you are using looks 16 gauge or less.
Also as others have said take off the engine mounted brace.
Second option.
Make a bracket that bolts to the frame instead of the a-arm bolts. For what ever reason I don't like your current bracket bolted to the a-arm bolts.
Again just my .02. Hope the FI works well.
First option.
Take the mounting plate that's bolted to the a-arm bolts and bend two 90 degree bends on the vertical sides of the mount. Maybe 1/2" wide. The bends will make it very strong. I'd also make it out 12 gauge sheet metal. What you are using looks 16 gauge or less.
Also as others have said take off the engine mounted brace.
Second option.
Make a bracket that bolts to the frame instead of the a-arm bolts. For what ever reason I don't like your current bracket bolted to the a-arm bolts.
Again just my .02. Hope the FI works well.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,743
Likes: 1,385
The engine does move quite a bit unless you have solid motor mounts. I would be concerned about it. Is it possible to put some kind of rubber isolates on the bracket to absorb some of the movement? I have not used the Command center, always went with electric pumps. I have heard some problems with the command center but others have said it works fine.
And for that matter I would use an In-tank pump and avoid another contraption in the engine compartment. From your fabrication skills it looks like it'd be easy for you. I used an in-tank fuel pump that I pull out from the the top.
That being said, I would NOT mount it like that at all....
Last edited by carriljc; Mar 10, 2019 at 11:26 PM.
