Shdggsdv

Hey guys, so got my '75 running again and discovered the steering has some play. It's about an inch of travel, but feels like a hard stop rather than slop as I'm used to it. Feels like something is physically loose. Anyway, I figured out that the play must be inside the steering box because the entire shaft seems to respond to steering movements fine. Any idea where I should go with this? Is this something that I'd fix by messing with the adjusting nut on the steering box?

jb78L-82

Once you have confirmed that all suspension steering components are in top shape, yes, the OEM steering boxes do have quite a bit of play in them, even when new. Gary Ramadei, GTR1999, on this forum is an expert on rebuilding/adjusting these boxes for zero play. He custom blueprinted/rebuilt my box in 2010 and it remains a joy to steer today, 10 years later, and better than it ever was when the car was brand new...reach out to Gary..........or search his posts for more info.....

Rescue Rogers

If its in the box, loosen the nust and unscrew it so the bolt grows longer until the slop is taken up. Try 1/4 turn at a time. The directions are in the bench manual for adjusting the box. You can take the slop right out of the box if it isnt worn out.

7T1vette

To identify where 'lost motion' exists in a steering system, you have to mechanically prevent movement at different locations in that system to find where the 'slop' shows up.

Use big vise-grips, etc. to bind up one segment of the system, then exercise the steering wheel: observe wheel movement.

You start by locking up the exit end of the steering column shaft...before the ragjoint. If you have no slop in the wheel, there is no "lost motion" within the steering column assembly. Put the lock-down AFTER the ragjoint. Test again. Keep moving downstream...one component at a time...untill you find some slop....and quantify it! Continue thru the entire steering system and you will find which component (or components) have lost motion. Then you need to find out why (for each one) and correct each problem area.

If you do not mechanically lock-out downstream movement, you're just 'guessing' where the problem(s) exist [unless there is an obviously bad part].

wadenelson

I'd head right down to a good front end / alignment shop and have them work it over.

Last two cars I've had with "sloppy steering" needed ball joints. Man, what an improvement. Totally different car.

Both would hesitate, then "lurch" when the steering wheel was turned. Kinda like a car with too much toe-out that NEVER wants to go straight but loves to turn.

Hardest part is finding a good shop. I've got one here in Phoenix if you get desperate. http://www.networkalignment.com/

Greengear

The two main ways to find steering play
-shake the steering wheel while car is running parked on dry pavement. Have an assistant work the steering wheel while you look for the clunky free play location under with a flashlight.
- jack up the front tires and shake the wheels. Same idea, have an assistant shake wheels left to right repeatedly while you find the play with flashlight.

Steering box adjustment never seems to work for me because internal gears tends to wear in center / straight ahead part of gears. Adjustment gets rid of play close to straight ahead position but causes binding around full right and left.
classic american car “sla” suspension is hard to diagnose at time because the spring pressure hides play during testing. Newer strut suspension makes it easier to pinpoint the balljoint, bushing or other parts that are the cause.

jb78L-82

This ^^^ is correct...the box adjustment screw will NOT eliminate significant steering slop but will only fine tune slight steering looseness. If you have good steering components other than the box (if that is the issue), adjusting the steering box will not eliminate any steering looseness unless under 1/8 inch, if you are lucky.

If you determine the issue is with the box, the only real solution is to have your box rebuilt by Gary or someone else extremely competent....BTW-In my opinion, I would get YOUR box rebuilt...I am not a fan of the rebuilt boxes sold commercially. Unless you have a steering box with less than 25,000 miles on it (NOT likely for most of us C3 owners), they all need a good custom blueprint/rebuild. I had GTR1999 rebuild mine with 65,000 miles on it and everything looked good internally BUT there were key worn parts and the box was significantly out of adjustment (that requires a rebuild, not a screw adjustment). Do it right with a custom rebuild and you will thank me later since the "New" steering box will be better than when it was brand new........

theandies

You never mentioned if your car has power steering. That introduces more linkages to look at as described. Did '75's come standard with power steering or was it still an option?
I would suspect a worn box or your rag joint is bad. My bet is the rag joint.

7T1vette

And...if you have P/S and the engine was OFF when you checked for slop in the system....you will have plenty. The P/S system doesn't 'tighten up' unless the pump is working.

GUSTO14

Tristan, before making any adjustments to the steering box be sure to verify that the condition of the rag-joint...


and the idler arm are 100%

Theses are two of the major sources of play in the steering linkages and also two of the easiest to R&R.

Good luck... GUSTO

jb78L-82

Good Advice ^^^^^along with the power steering control valve as well as the PS ram. Keep in mind that the OEM Steering box which is recirculating ball steering is inherently sloppy even when they were brand new and have a very lazy 16:1 steering gear ratio. There are almost no OEM manufacturers that use recirculating ball today. I believe that the BMW 540i in the early 2000's was the last one to use this type of steering and it was VERY sloppy on 540's I drove and slow. The Borgeson conversion is also recirculating ball BUT without the PS control valve and ram plus (probably more influential to steering feel) is that the ratio is 12.7:1. R&P is superior to both.

When I had my OEM box rebuilt/blue printed a custom olite bushing (non factory) was added to the internal steering shaft of the box which eliminates all play and was not present when the box was new.

Just trying to give context about expectations with a stock OEM box that is not properly rebuilt and upgraded....You will not get super precise steering without some mods......even with 100% up to standards steering components on the rest of the system.

theandies

GUSTO - Nice call. I always forget about the idler arm. I can say when I bought my car I had steering slop. My rag joint was shot and so was my idler arm. After changing those two parts steering was a lot tighter ('71 without power steering). A quick, small adjustment to the lash screw on top of the gearbox and now my steering it nice and tight. Just keep in mind if you do the lash adjustment you can over do it and when you are in a turn and release the wheel if it's over adjusted the steering will not return to center on it's own. Adjust-test self centering and if it doesn't adjust back slightly until the steering self centers.