Headlights Are More Like Strobe Lights!
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Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
From: Opelika Alabama
Headlights Are More Like Strobe Lights!
Morning to everyone...1979 Coupe, had no headlights. Replaced the engine harness and the forward lights harness. Worked perfectly for a minute or so, then started blinking erratically. Cut em off, wait a minute, turn them back on. Perfect for maybe 30 seconds, then the light show begins again. I've checked the grounds on the new harness and the headlight switch is new...what am I missing? Thanks in advance!
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 183
From: Port St. Lucie Fl
Morning to everyone...1979 Coupe, had no headlights. Replaced the engine harness and the forward lights harness. Worked perfectly for a minute or so, then started blinking erratically. Cut em off, wait a minute, turn them back on. Perfect for maybe 30 seconds, then the light show begins again. I've checked the grounds on the new harness and the headlight switch is new...what am I missing? Thanks in advance!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 336
From: Texas
Look up Daniel stern lighting. He has relay kits to fix the problem. I have relays for the lights on my 79. Work great brighter headlights because they get power straight from the alternator 14V
Last edited by speedreed8; Mar 27, 2019 at 10:41 AM.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 338
Likes: 56
Hi. I had that problem as well after I replaced my Headlight switch on my 69. It appears not to be uncommon, some of the switches seem to "over heat" and kick on and off. I know there is a technical term for what it is in the switch that's screwing up, just can't remember what it is. Returned switch and got another from a supplier and it worked fine.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
I highly suspect that mbp is on the right track. The C3 headlamp electric circuit passes all the lamp current through the headlamp switch. The contacts get 'dirty' over time because of arcing, etc. Your best option (every C3 owner's best option, actually) is to install relays into the circuit so that the switch only turns on the associated relay (HI or LO beam lamps). You could leave current for the parking lamps at the switch as it is relatively low current; or you could also add a relay for those.
I don't drive my car much at night; but I have noticed some amount of heating at the switch area and lights are not as bright as they should be. So I need to do this same 'upgrade'.
I don't drive my car much at night; but I have noticed some amount of heating at the switch area and lights are not as bright as they should be. So I need to do this same 'upgrade'.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
From: Opelika Alabama
Thanks for the input. The switch is new but we know that doesn't mean its good...I still have to install the starter harness, maybe that will reveal something...oh, and now it's only strobing on high beam...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,453
Likes: 976
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
The headlight switch is the circuit breaker all in one. If the old headlight switch did not trip the breaker, then the new switch is bad or there is a wiring issue.
I have had 4 Hella Euro Halogens on my 78 since the late 80's, 55/60 watt H4 lows and 100 watt H1 highs. I had to wire a relay in at that time for the highs only to remove the current draw from the switch to prevent the lights flickering. Only the highs are on a relay, the lows run through the switch.
FWIW-the relays may help a sealed beam headlight look slightly better but do not expect miracles with light output. My Lows on the light switch (no relay) do not show any significant amperage drop versus the relay used with the (2) 100 watt highs. The purpose of the relay is reduce the amperage load on the switch and as long as the amperage is reduced either using a relay for both low and high OR either one but not both, the light circuit will be bright and good to go.
I have had 4 Hella Euro Halogens on my 78 since the late 80's, 55/60 watt H4 lows and 100 watt H1 highs. I had to wire a relay in at that time for the highs only to remove the current draw from the switch to prevent the lights flickering. Only the highs are on a relay, the lows run through the switch.
FWIW-the relays may help a sealed beam headlight look slightly better but do not expect miracles with light output. My Lows on the light switch (no relay) do not show any significant amperage drop versus the relay used with the (2) 100 watt highs. The purpose of the relay is reduce the amperage load on the switch and as long as the amperage is reduced either using a relay for both low and high OR either one but not both, the light circuit will be bright and good to go.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Mar 28, 2019 at 08:51 AM.
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
From: Opelika Alabama
The headlight switch is the circuit breaker all in one. If the old headlight switch did not trip the breaker, then the new switch is bad or there is a wiring issue.
I have had 4 Hella Euro Halogens on my 78 since the late 80's, 55/60 watt H4 lows and 100 watt H1 highs. I had to wire a relay in at that time for the highs only to remove the current draw from the switch to prevent the lights flickering. Only the highs are on a relay, the lows run through the switch.
FWIW-the relays may help a sealed beam headlight look slightly better but do not expect miracles with light output. My Lows on the light switch (no relay) do not show any significant amperage drop versus the relay used with the (2) 100 watt highs. The purpose of the relay is reduce the amperage load on the switch and as long as the amperage is reduced either using a relay for both low and high OR either one but not both, the light circuit will be bright and good to go.
I have had 4 Hella Euro Halogens on my 78 since the late 80's, 55/60 watt H4 lows and 100 watt H1 highs. I had to wire a relay in at that time for the highs only to remove the current draw from the switch to prevent the lights flickering. Only the highs are on a relay, the lows run through the switch.
FWIW-the relays may help a sealed beam headlight look slightly better but do not expect miracles with light output. My Lows on the light switch (no relay) do not show any significant amperage drop versus the relay used with the (2) 100 watt highs. The purpose of the relay is reduce the amperage load on the switch and as long as the amperage is reduced either using a relay for both low and high OR either one but not both, the light circuit will be bright and good to go.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 183
From: Port St. Lucie Fl
Thanks for that explanation! So if I understand you, the high beams run through a relay. If I'm only flickering on high beam, could it be that said relay is bad? I don't know the status of the old headlight switch because the lights didn't work when I got the car. I bought a new switch just because...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,453
Likes: 976
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
Thanks for that explanation! So if I understand you, the high beams run through a relay. If I'm only flickering on high beam, could it be that said relay is bad? I don't know the status of the old headlight switch because the lights didn't work when I got the car. I bought a new switch just because...
3rd Gear
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Port Orange FL
Had a similar problem on my 79 when I changed to halogen bulbs. I had also replaced the headlight switch. Check you light bulb connectors as well. My one high beam connector the wire on the back was exposed causing a current draw.
