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Hi I'm going to connect some points on my distributor after going with electronic for many years. I need to run a wire from the distributor to the neg side of coil but I'm not sure where the wire originates from. Will it work from the same place that the condenser wire plugs in or should I go from the points base plate? Also need a diode wire going to the "S" terminal to the pos on the coil? Thanks for advise.
A points type system has two wires connected to the terminal on the points, one wire is from the condenser inside the distributor and the other wire goes to the negative post of the coil.
Did you mean a resistance wire going from the R terminal to the positive side of the coil? The S terminal wire comes from the switch for starting.
I have to make my own black wire going to the coil since it's no longer around and was wondering where it starts out from exactly. I think they use 18 gauge wire for that. And the other wire normally comes from the "R" terminal but since there is only an "S" terminal on my starter you have to use a wire with a diode to only have current in one direction that connects to the "S" terminal and the plus side of the coil.
Are you running a resistance wire?If not I think you're going to burn your points in about 30 miles.
Yes we have all that covered no problem, but it's surprising to me how all this information on breaker points has slipped away from general knowledge by mechanics who work on cars today.
The yellow "R" wire from the starter "R" terminal to the positive side of the coil is not really a 100% requirement. If your solenoid does not have the "R" terminal (and you do not desire to change that), you could run without it. Your car will start without it. Start better if you have it, but not a show stopper.
The resistance wire should come from the bulkhead connector to the positive side of the coil.
Diode wire? Not seeing the need for it. Electronic conversions sometimes need diodes in the voltage regulator circuit but I do not see the need in this case.
Distributor black wire runs from points to the negative side of the coil.
The yellow "R" wire from the starter "R" terminal to the positive side of the coil is not really a 100% requirement. If your solenoid does not have the "R" terminal (and you do not desire to change that), you could run without it. Your car will start without it. Start better if you have it, but not a show stopper.
The resistance wire should come from the bulkhead connector to the positive side of the coil.
Diode wire? Not seeing the need for it. Electronic conversions sometimes need diodes in the voltage regulator circuit but I do not see the need in this case.
Distributor black wire runs from points to the negative side of the coil.
The main question I still have is where exactly the negative wire coming from the distributor comes from or is connected to "IN" the distributor. Or would it work if connected to the points base plate?
The main question I still have is where exactly the negative wire coming from the distributor comes from or is connected to "IN" the distributor. Or would it work if connected to the points base plate?
Need to connect to the points, not the base plate. Wire attaches to coil negative then goes thru bottom of distributor and attaches to the points. The points open and close to complete the circuit. Starts and stops the flow of electricity thru the coil windings.
Need to connect to the points, not the base plate. Wire attaches to coil negative then goes thru bottom of distributor and attaches to the points. The points open and close to complete the circuit. Starts and stops the flow of electricity thru the coil windings.
I don't think anyone understands what I'm asking, kind of frustrating...but don't worry about it I can find someone I know that can help. thanks
I found the answer! I went to eBay looked up an old used distributor that was for sale and by looking at the different views of it I could see how the wiring is suppose to go. lol
He is using a diode to create an R terminal wire. The diode is there to stop 12v going the other way and firing the starter with ignition voltage.
It seems to be working fine without it. The points are a temporary fix while the MSD box is being sent back to the shop for repair. I can always pull the leads off at the resistor if it keeps running I guess. Thanks for the help!
The R terminal supplies 12 volts to the points to give a hotter spark when starting. It is only hot when the key is in the start position and the started is turning. The distributor and coil run off approx. 7.5 - 9.6 volts (depending on make) while driving. This is supplied by a resistance wire or resister on the firewall. The R terminal is used based on the theory of the battery dropping voltage to approx. 11 volts while the starter is cranking in cold weather.
By using the diode on the S terminal you are creating an R terminal to supply 12v to the coil to ease starting.
The terminal on the points is the attachment for the neg coil wire. The Capacitor is to reduce voltage spikes to the points. (and radio noise)
Turns out the real problem was a bad distributor in need of rebuild. I replaced it with a MSD distributor and works great. They told me finding some place that could rebuild the original would be extremely difficult as no one has the machine needed to do it anymore. I still would like to have it rebuilt though and have not checked into doing that yet.
Turns out the real problem was a bad distributor in need of rebuild. I replaced it with a MSD distributor and works great. They told me finding some place that could rebuild the original would be extremely difficult as no one has the machine needed to do it anymore. I still would like to have it rebuilt though and have not checked into doing that yet.
You live in the center of USA auto racing and someone told you no one does this or has a machine ... they're either ignorant or lied in order to sell you a distributor.
Nelson also repairs and upgrades MSD, Crane, Mallory etc boxes ... he's an internationally respected ignition expert
You live in the center of USA auto racing and someone told you no one does this or has a machine ... they're either ignorant or lied in order to sell you a distributor.
Nelson also repairs and upgrades MSD, Crane, Mallory etc boxes ... he's an internationally respected ignition expert
Yeah it's hard to find honest help these days, even if they do good work. They did say that if you sell it don't let it go cheap because original distributors are very rare to find these days. I will get this fixed and later decide if I want to go back to points for some reason. Thanks!
Turns out the real problem was a bad distributor in need of rebuild. I replaced it with a MSD distributor and works great. They told me finding some place that could rebuild the original would be extremely difficult as no one has the machine needed to do it anymore. I still would like to have it rebuilt though and have not checked into doing that yet.
Check with Lars here on the forum. I think he still rebuilds distributors as well as carbs.
Last I heard, Lars' Distributor Machine was down. I wondered if he's resumed accepting dist work.
AFAIK, Lars continues carb work ... stellar carb & dist rep.
Your mechanic probably had no idea what was wrong with your distributor and was just easier to tell you it needs a rebuild. Even a well worn points distributor in need of "repair" will usually still get you down the road!! Not sure who makes msd distributors but I know the cheaper ones are off shore made. Better carry a spare module with you!