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OK, whats the trick. For convenience, I've separated the rant from the actual question. How do you thread the hood release cable stop on to the end of the cable? I did clip the frayed end and now it appears that all I've accomplished is a shorter cable that won't go into the brass stop. I've already considered drilling a larger hole, replacing the cable and just knocking out the plastic plug and having a screwdriver on the seat beside me.
Now, on to the rant. I've done a number of truly aggravating jobs over the last two weeks. Between the sidepipes and doing a little clean up work under the hood, I've had lots of time to contemplate the various components and the engineers that must have worked on them. I looked up the kid's definition of engineers and came up with a pretty succinct one:
An engineer is a person who designs and builds complex products, machines, systems, or structures.
This really seems apt when I look at the hood release mechanism. There are no less than five separate components with at least 20 parts. There are two connecting cables and at least 6 springs. The release mechanism on the drivers side is a study in Rube Goldberg. Who on earth engineered such a piece and went home at the end of the day and thought "job well done!" Unless the guy (or gal) was a masochist, who would have thought to tuck a cable and brass stop in a confined area with no easy access or lighting. For good measure the steel braided cable is designed to draw blood, but even more exciting is that you cant even tell which finger(s) is/are punctured because they're completely hidden from view.
Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; 04-08-2019 at 02:11 PM.
Reason: Correcting title
I still envision Duntov and the boys sitting around the office during morning meetings going; "...and if we make the belt short enough on the power steering, then they can see the cap and even touch it, and it'll be possible, but it'll be easier to check the fluid level if you actually take the alternator off."
OK, whats the trick. For convenience, I've separated the rant from the actual question. How do you thread the hood release cable stop on to the end of the cable? I did clip the frayed end and now it appears that all I've accomplished is a shorter cable that won't go into the brass stop. I've already considered drilling a larger hole, replacing the cable and just knocking out the plastic plug and having a screwdriver on the seat beside me.
Now, on to the rant. I've done a number of truly aggravating jobs over the last two weeks. Between the sidepipes and doing a little clean up work under the hood, I've had lots of time to contemplate the various components and the engineers that must have worked on them. I looked up the kid's definition of engineers and came up with a pretty succinct one:
An engineer is a person who designs and builds complex products, machines, systems, or structures.
This really seems apt when I look at the hood release mechanism. There are no less than five separate components with at least 20 parts. There are two connecting cables and at least 6 springs. The release mechanism on the drivers side is a study in Rube Goldberg. Who on earth engineered such a piece and went home at the end of the day and thought "job well done!" Unless the guy (or gal) was a masochist, who would have thought to tuck a cable and brass stop in a confined area with no easy access or lighting. For good measure the steel braided cable is designed to draw blood, but even more exciting is that you cant even tell which finger(s) is/are punctured because they're completely hidden from view.
I feel the pain Cal-Legal. Been wrenching on Jags primarily for past 20-25 years. They’re worse. I would always ask myself, “Are these the same people who gave us the Spitfire and Rolls Royce Merlin v-12 in WW2?” Look at the throttle linkage on a Jag v12, it’s a work of art but hardly a lesson in simplicity and efficiency.
I still envision Duntov and the boys sitting around the office during morning meetings going; "...and if we make the belt short enough on the power steering, then they can see the cap and even touch it, and it'll be possible, but it'll be easier to check the fluid level if you actually take the alternator off."
M
Originally Posted by Mooser
But on a different note, which cable are you dealing with?
M
The cable from the hood release on the drivers side right above the kick panel to the mechanism in the engine compartment near the brake booster.
That's what I figured
On my 72, the original and the replacement were a single wire not a stranded cable
If yours isn't stainless or something, you could / should be able to wind it tight and then solder the last 1/4" or so, wiping excess off while still hot and that should hold it together to install.
BTW, for what it's worth, on the brass piece on mine the hole for the screw was drilled through so I tapped it all the way through both sides and installed a grub screw to the opposite side of the screw and now it's pressing against something solid instead of pressing into the hole
M
That's what I figured
On my 72, the original and the replacement were a single wire not a stranded cable
If yours isn't stainless or something, you could / should be able to wind it tight and then solder the last 1/4" or so, wiping excess off while still hot and that should hold it together to install.
BTW, for what it's worth, on the brass piece on mine the hole for the screw was drilled through so I tapped it all the way through both sides and installed a grub screw to the opposite side of the screw and now it's pressing against something solid instead of pressing into the hole
M
interesting. I assumed it was stock but really have no reason to assume that. I’m currently calming myself with the fact that the engineer that created this is likely dead.
Did i I mention that after a few dozen tries, I dropped the brass fitting and can’t find it?
Luckily it's brass and non-magnetic so you can't fish it out that way......
M
Funny that you mention this. I tried anyways since the machine screw is magnetic. I found a bolt that had fallen off the female hood release years ago. I’m going to head off to Tractor Supply tomorrow and see what they have. Amazon has an assortment of cable stops so if TS or maybe Ace doesn’t work, Amazon will.
Not sure what year or maybe I missed it (as usual) but the cable on my 69 is solid like Moosers.
And don't worry about the cable stop. You will find it right after you buy the new one.... Bike shop is a really good idea.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; 04-08-2019 at 10:58 PM.
I did find the wire stop. I used four lights and a small mirror. Looked like a night football game under the hood. I literally had to reach in (blind mind you) up to my shoulder to get it. For a moment, my arm got really stuck and my first thought was “shame that I didn’t think to record this.” I think you all would have enjoyed the fire department getting me loose.
My my second thought was to call my wife and ask her to get the Sawzall.
My third was to relax and work my arm free. This was made a little tougher because, like the monkey and the grape, I would not let go for anything.
A secondary benefit of the bright light was that I could see the frays in the wire cable. I gave it a haircut, figuring that I’d replace it anyways. Got the stop on far enough to make the mechanism work. I did misalign the male mechanism which jammed the drivers side release for a while, but I’ll leave that rant for another day
Its hot today but cooling to the high 70’s tomorrow. Going to take it for a nice, long drive.
Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; 04-09-2019 at 06:16 PM.
04-08-2019, 02:10 PM
Hood release cable stop
Bike shop is a really good idea.
