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Hey all. I have a replacement frame for my project that has one section which needs to be repaired.I have the replacement section which I ordered from Paragon.
I am looking for tips/advice on the process.
I do not have a chassis table so my intention was to build a quick supporting structure out of 2x4s and clamp the chassis to it to ensure that once the section is removed, everything stays put. Do you feel this will be sufficient?
Also, there were no instructions included however I have been watching videos and doing as much reading as I can (which actually isn't very much) but the process seems fairly straight forward. I would appreciate the feedback from those who have done this already.
My plan of attack:
1) secure frame to chassis support
2) remove bad section of frame
3) spot weld the inner sleeve to the frame
4) spot weld the replacement frame pieces to the inner sleeve
5) tack weld the replacement frame pieces in place, ensuring straightness.
6) confirm measurements and angles, then finish welding all seams
Rather than build a frame out of wood and clamp, take some 1" square metal stock or similar and weld across for bracing so nothing can possibly move after cutting. Then do your frame cut and patch. After it is all welded up again and ready to go, cut the bracing out and you should be good to go. you dont have to go nuts on welding the bracing, but it does have to be solid. When you go to remove it, just cut the welds and then grind smooth.
My neighbor and I put a Camaro subframe on the front of a 52 Chevy Sedan Delivery. No frame table, but we braced and levelled it with stands and shims with 1" square tube. After a whole lot of measuring, we cut the old front end off and put the new subframe in place. All done we cut the bracing off and measured again. Stayed straight. Little grinding and some paint.
Great suggestion, both of you however unfortunately I do not have any square tubing to weld up. If I can find a source for this tomorrow I will certainly give it a go.
i ended up doing the short rail section like you have pictured on the drivers side, and the big one on the pass side, i kept it simple, i clamped 2 pieces of steel on frame, i took a few measurements, marked frame with marker in a ton of spots,and cut, when fitting i checked my measurements a few times then welded, i would recommeend stagering the joints, so you would have to order another coupler sleeve. i plug welded the sleeves in, then ran a bead on the butt joint. take a long level to make sure rails are straight, i took a measuremnt from top of rail to trailing arm center so i didnt weld the back end up to high or low. wasnt too bad at all. when welding the number 3 body mount on, the hole in the rail was off a hare, check that before welding on
i ended up doing the short rail section like you have pictured on the drivers side, and the big one on the pass side, i kept it simple, i clamped 2 pieces of steel on frame, i took a few measurements, marked frame with marker in a ton of spots,and cut, when fitting i checked my measurements a few times then welded, i would recommeend stagering the joints, so you would have to order another coupler sleeve. i plug welded the sleeves in, then ran a bead on the butt joint. take a long level to make sure rails are straight, i took a measuremnt from top of rail to trailing arm center so i didnt weld the back end up to high or low. wasnt too bad at all. when welding the number 3 body mount on, the hole in the rail was off a hare, check that before welding on
Thanks so much for this, it is exactly what I was looking for. It is a great idea to stagger the joints and not something I would have thought of so I appreciate the input. The sleeve that I received is quite long at 8" so I am considering cutting it in half to accomplish this as I really do not want to put off the project however if it will not be long enough to accomplish this I suppose I could always plug weld in some straight bar stock on each of the flats to serve the same purpose.
Out of curiosity with the frame secured as you mentioned, did you find that it had moved and required adjustment once you cut away the bad sections?
In any case, I want to be absolutely certain that this is a straight repair so I will do as you did with lots of measurements and checking before everything is welded up solid.
i made my cuts to disturb as little as possible, i did the hard ones first like by the kickup, the brace, that way i wasnt beating the joints apart disturbing the frame, there are a upper and lower lip on the back crossmember that really helps set the height of the side rail. i was very carefull to not disturb it, and i didnt, the frame did move 1/8 back, which i caught while checking my many refrence points, i used a ratchect strap to bring it back forward, im confident i got the frame exactlly where it needs to be, havent had any issue yet. i had never done a frame repair like this on a vette and i really didnt like butting inner and outer repair piece to the exisiting frame even with that sleeve, i thought about it for a little and the staggering idea popped in my head and im my opinion thats the best and strongest way to go.
The cheapest place to get steel bracing in CT is Logan steel in Meriden. Go to their bargain barn and its filled with their scrap steel pieces which you purchase by the pound.
The cheapest place to get steel bracing in CT is Logan steel in Meriden. Go to their bargain barn and its filled with their scrap steel pieces which you purchase by the pound.
This is fantastic info! I had no idea this place even existed. While I was able to get my frame done without it I will absolutely head there for some scrap pieces to keep around.
72 frame repair question
i had never done a frame repair like this on a vette and i really didnt like butting inner and outer repair piece to the exisiting frame even with that sleeve, i thought about it for a little and the staggering idea popped in my head and im my opinion thats the best and strongest way to go.
