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Once again I turn to you guys to steer me in the right direction. As you can see from the before photos the paint was peeling , cracking and flacking off primarily on the flat surface of the fenders. the other areas of the car are not so bad for 40 year old paint job so I thought. Well I had the bright idea of masking off that part of the car and applying Stripper to the panel. Well the stripper worked as prescribed however, from everything I have read it is not completely necessary to get all the original paint off. Also in those stubborn spots the Strip Kleen paint stripper for Fiberglass, did not work I used D8 6'' orbital with 80 grit then 120 to 150 to get it where I am at now. overall I think its pretty smooth but I did go to hard in a spot or two. what's my next step. Do I VPA in those spots or could I just block sand until I build up those spots?
Hopefully DUB or someone way more experienced than I will chime in but for my 2cents I think the next step is to guide coat and block sand just to see where the highs/lows are then fill accordingly. Rinse and repeat until smooth.
These cars are so curvy that pictures make it hard to see what you are talking about. I was told not to use a DA or sander on these cars without years of exp or you could damage them, so I always used a soft block or paint stick. I am guessing this is also why everyone uses stripper or razors to remove the paint.
I recommend removing all paint everywhere. I'm glad I did that with my paint project. Citristrip and time. No damage to the fiberglass and the only dust came from prep for paint. Used a Sherwin-Williams product called Composite Surfacer to fill in most pin holes and a single stage paint called Jet-Glo.
Hopefully DUB or someone way more experienced than I will chime in but for my 2cents I think the next step is to guide coat and block sand just to see where the highs/lows are then fill accordingly. Rinse and repeat until smooth.
That depends what their goal is, as I understand it NCRS wants to the see the imperfections in the fiberglass from the factory and removing them or hiding them is wrong. Others want a beautiful smooth paint job with no orange peel.
just want a car thats all one color without breaking the bank.
If you have a place to shoot it and you can do it yourself, you won't. That of course is the key.
Less than $350 for all, IIRC.
Next time you step into a new clean plane from the jetway*, feel/look at the paint on the bird's outside: that's the shine and hardness you'll have on your Vette.
If you have a place to shoot it and you can do it yourself, you won't. That of course is the key.
Less than $350 for all, IIRC.
Next time you step into a new clean plane from the jetway, feel/look at the paint on the bird's outside: that's the shine and hardness you'll have on your Vette.
Steve
WOW, thats really impressive i need directions on what to use first and is the readily available?
I can say for a fact that IF this car were in my shop. ALL of the paint/primer would come off and not just sand it and leave some regardless if it feels smooth or not. Reason i would strip it all the way down is because I have done this for so long I no longer take any chances and have a possible problem occur AFTER the car is all painted.
NOW...on the other hand...some people shoot primer over what you have accomplished with the stripping and sanding it and have turned out decent paint jobs that lasted for a good while.
I can say for a fact that IF this car were in my shop. ALL of the paint/primer would come off and not just sand it and leave some regardless if it feels smooth or not. Reason i would strip it all the way down is because I have done this for so long I no longer take any chances and have a possible problem occur AFTER the car is all painted.
NOW...on the other hand...some people shoot primer over what you have accomplished with the stripping and sanding it and have turned out decent paint jobs that lasted for a good while.
DUB
I have almost a half of gallon of stripper left. I will do that first. is it possible to do this as a spot repair. like I am attempting to do? keep in mind I want to drive it fir the summer at least twice. since these summer months are so short. I will do the full rrepaint after my kid finishes college in 2 years.
Are planes not made of steel and aluminum not fiber glass, so how is this aerospace paint do abul on a corvette?
Some planes are constructed of a composite material. Light aircraft and the Boeing 787 come to mind. I think it's the primer coat that differs between the two applications of the same paint. I am however fearful of a ding, scrape, etc. right now, because I have no clue as to how I could feather in a touch-up paint repair on this type of aerospace coating.
My 65 was painted in lacquer Rally Red when I bought it in 2004. It had been striped and repainted a few years before I bought it. It look awesome when buffed and I got a lot of complements. I started seeing spider checking around 2013 which eventually got worse. The paint also was easily nicked and had numerous stone chips. I had it repainted in BC/CC rally red in 2015 and it has held up great. Much more resistant to stone chips. I did like the lacquer paint but it is high maintenance. Looks wise the lacquer is a little more appealing but the BC/CC is a close second and much less maintenance. IMO
painted/stripped myself into a corner
