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I use Napa Echin Points CS786p (and CS7860) and Napa Echin Condenser RR175. I rebuilt my distributor this past fall and have around 1000 miles on it. I have recently had ignition failures and replaced the points and condenser. Napa was out of the RR175 so they gave me RR175SB which turns out to be a lesser quality product. These failed within 50 miles so I purchased the RR175 from a different location this time not replacing the points but returning the used but cleaned up points that I had installed last fall these too failed again. In another post some one mention sometimes you get a “Lemon” which for me seems to be a basket full. Has anyone else recently had a problem with Echin points and condensers?
I use Napa Echin Points CS786p (and CS7860) and Napa Echin Condenser RR175. I rebuilt my distributor this past fall and have around 1000 miles on it. I have recently had ignition failures and replaced the points and condenser. Napa was out of the RR175 so they gave me RR175SB which turns out to be a lesser quality product. These failed within 50 miles so I purchased the RR175 from a different location this time not replacing the points but returning the used but cleaned up points that I had installed last fall these too failed again. In another post some one mention sometimes you get a “Lemon” which for me seems to be a basket full. Has anyone else recently had a problem with Echin points and condensers?
I love the old school technology reference. Not knowing anything about you or your experience, please don't take any offense at this, as I mean it in a good way. I have been in THE OLD SCHOOL. Adjusted points on the side of the road with a matchbook cover. ...I know, what the heck is a matchbook? Anyway, I learned a long time ago that just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean you should. Yes, there is a certain inner strength knowing that I can do something a lot of other people cannot do. Once you get stranded on a dark road in the middle of the night when it is raining, you begin to appreciate technology. As I said, this is all meant in good spirits and I hope you figure out your issues.
PS> Where is ErialNJ. Born and raised there until about 20 years ago and I don't recall it.
I love the old school technology reference. Not knowing anything about you or your experience, please don't take any offense at this, as I mean it in a good way. I have been in THE OLD SCHOOL. Adjusted points on the side of the road with a matchbook cover. ...I know, what the heck is a matchbook? Anyway, I learned a long time ago that just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean you should. Yes, there is a certain inner strength knowing that I can do something a lot of other people cannot do. Once you get stranded on a dark road in the middle of the night when it is raining, you begin to appreciate technology. As I said, this is all meant in good spirits and I hope you figure out your issues.
PS> Where is ErialNJ. Born and raised there until about 20 years ago and I don't recall it.
I hear what you are saying, what's worse than all that is I can picture and hear my wife with that tone of voice that I'm not to fond of to make that situation even worse, I'm trying to avoid all that.
S. Jersey half way between Philly and Atlantic City
Rick
Last edited by RickDett; May 28, 2019 at 05:12 PM.
Yes check the voltage at the + side of the coil. If you are getting over 9 volts the points will "burn" and fail. So while it is running you should have 9 volts. While cranking it ups it to 12 volts for a little more juice at startup.
Yes check the voltage at the + side of the coil. If you are getting over 9 volts the points will "burn" and fail. So while it is running you should have 9 volts. While cranking it ups it to 12 volts for a little more juice at startup.
Your not to far from me in Erial.
Voorhees yup, I was heading to that Silver Diner show in Cherry Hill yesterday before I had to limp back home.
Kacyc, Part of the Hobby to me is the "Old School Technology" I'm trying to resist but am feeling am going to be giving up on it soon. :-(
MelWff, I'll check tonight, is that to check that the wiring reduces properly?
Rick
I get it but at the same time I hate doing the same thing more than once, especially when modern replacement parts are known to not be as good they used to be.
Connections to the coil.
Positive side of the coil red is insulated then a yellow wires are combined to one terminal and the a black wire from the radio capacitor
Negative side of coil is black from distributor
Reading from Positive side
Key on 8 volts
Cranking 12 volts (Distributor coil wire removed from dist. Cap)
Running 12 volts
Reading from Negative side
Key on 0 volts
Cranking 8 volts
Running 8-10 volts based on RPM’s
Thoughts?
Rick
Last edited by RickDett; May 28, 2019 at 08:58 PM.
Connections to the coil.
Positive side of the coil red is insulated then a yellow wires are combined to one terminal and the a black wire from the radio capacitor
Negative side of coil is black from distributor
Reading from Positive side
Key on 8 volts
Cranking 12 volts (Distributor coil wire removed from dist. Cap)
Running 12 volts
Reading from Negative side
Key on 0 volts
Cranking 8 volts
Running 8-10 volts based on RPM’s
Thoughts?
Rick
That is not right. There should not be a red wire to the positive side of the coil. It is just the yellow resistor wire to the + side of the coil. Where is the red wire coming from. The yellow resistor wire should be coming from the starter. Sounds like Bubba was in the wiring harness.
Straight un-ballasted hot will roast points pretty quick. Otherwise points is points. If they open and close and read open circuit when open, they will run. Capacitors are different. They can have various quality levels. But since the Chinese are running points in their cars, you would think they could build a condenser. Or maybe it is like the lead paint in kids toys they export to us. Pretty sure they know how to not use lead base paint. But they do anyway.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by Gordonm
That is not right. There should not be a red wire to the positive side of the coil. It is just the yellow resistor wire to the + side of the coil. Where is the red wire coming from. The yellow resistor wire should be coming from the starter. Sounds like Bubba was in the wiring harness.
There should be two wires going to the coil + terminal. The resistive wire (of whatever color) goes through the firewall to the switch circuit. The other wire (non-resistive) goes down to the R terminal of the starter solenoid.
OP, the voltage readings are a bit odd. If you can, give us a voltage reading of the C+ terminal when the points are open, and when they are closed. That will speed up the diagnosis substantially.
Wiring schematic calls it W-R/B (not sure what that color supposed to be) but I see red, the connection looks like a factory crimp, so I’m not sure what to make of it. The Yellow supposed to go to the starter, W-R/B to the key, I'm going to have to unwrap to verify.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by RickDett
With key on reading positive terminal on coil 8 volts then 13 volts with the points separated with thin cardboard.
Rick
That's the change/difference you want to see, but the actual readings are higher than I would expect. What's your confidence level regarding the accuracy of your meter?
Points and Condenser Again
