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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by RickDett
Low +/- 2 it's not a digital. (It might be a bit old school too.)
Rick
Not a problem. If you were getting those numbers with a high dollar digital meter then I would suspect an issue with several things. But, take a half volt or one volt off those numbers, and things make sense.
Now, the item that is still odd: You indicated the C+ voltage is the same when cranking and running. (But, that is possible if there's a low battery voltage when cranking, and a much higher alternator voltage when running.). While idling, can you check the alternator voltage (should be about 13.5, more or less) and compare that to the reading you get on the coil C+ terminal (which should be lower, 7-9v, due to the dwell current pulses through the resistance wire, and averaged out in your meter circuitry)?
While idling, can you check the alternator voltage (should be about 13.5, more or less) and compare that to the reading you get on the coil C+ terminal (which should be lower, 7-9v, due to the dwell current pulses through the resistance wire, and averaged out in your meter circuitry)?
Below is supplied a bit more accurately
On the same analog voltmeter while idling 14.5 volts at alternator, 12 volts on positive at coil.
Using a digital timing light voltmeter see below
Digital timing light voltmeter while idling 14.7 volts at alternator, 14-7 volts (jumps back & forth) on positive at coil.
Reading from Positive side coil
Key on no digital reading (analog voltmeter 8 volts)
Cranking digital 9.7-10.5 volts (Distributor coil wire removed from dist. Cap)
Running digital 13-7 volts jumps back & forth
With key on reading positive terminal on coil no digital volts reading (7.5 on analog voltmeter) then digital 12.2 volts with the points separated with thin cardboard.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by RickDett
Below is supplied a bit more accurately
On the same analog voltmeter while idling 14.5 volts at alternator, 12 volts on positive at coil.
Using a digital timing light voltmeter see below
Digital timing light voltmeter while idling 14.7 volts at alternator, 14-7 volts (jumps back & forth) on positive at coil.
Reading from Positive side coil
Key on no digital reading (analog voltmeter 8 volts)
Cranking digital 9.7-10.5 volts (Distributor coil wire removed from dist. Cap)
Running digital 13-7 volts jumps back & forth
With key on reading positive terminal on coil no digital volts reading (7.5 on analog voltmeter) then digital 12.2 volts with the points separated with thin cardboard.
Rick
Lotsa odd voltage readings. Most meters average the DC readings. Is your timing light voltmeter doing some odd voltage samplings instead of continuous measurements? Why doesn't it read at times?
Your C+ voltage reading is frequently higher than expected. Can you get a decent resistance reading of the coil primary winding?
Positive side coil
Key on 6 volts, 12 volts with the points separated with thin cardboard
Cranking 9.9 volts (Distributor coil wire removed from dist. Cap)
Engine running 10.8 volts
At Alternator
Engine off 12.4 volts
Idle 14.7 volts
Originally Posted by 69427
Can you get a decent resistance reading of the coil primary winding?
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by RickDett
Okay now with a high accuracy digital voltmeter
Positive side coil
Key on 6 volts, 12 volts with the points separated with thin cardboard Yup, looks good.
Cranking 9.9 volts (Distributor coil wire removed from dist. Cap) In the ballpark.
Engine running 10.8 volts Given the higher end alternator voltage, that looks to be mathematically correct.
At Alternator
Engine off 12.4 volts
Idle 14.7 volts "Cold" voltage, I'm assuming. I believe this voltage is supposed to drop down to about 13.2-13.5 volts when the engine/alternator gets warm, making life easier on the battery and electricals.
1.5 ohms Typical. Good.
Do you see my data as acceptable or an issue?
Rick
Everything looks reasonably correct, The indicated alternator voltage will cause your primary current will end up on the high side (closer to 5 amps, rather than 4 amps), making life a touch rougher for your points and coil. Once the underhood temps get up to normal readings hopefully the alternator voltage drops down a bit.
Going back to the beginning of this thread regarding “Lemons” I’m back to focusing on the points and condenser. Reading thought the forum it seems Standard Motor Products (SMP) manufactures Napa's Echlin brand and others as well as BWD so I'll give those a try.