scottjamison

Hi,

When I converted over to manual brakes on my 68 I did everything correctly, moved the master Cyl up about an inch to use the upper hole on the brake pedal, fabricated new from lines and bled everything well. I also had to build a new plunger from the brake pedal into the master cyl. I took it for a test drive and all was fine. But halfway through (about a mile away) the brakes started to drag as they headed up. I headed back immediately but by the time I got home the rear brakes were smoking a lot (only rear). Turns out I had incorrectly measured for the plunger and the brakes were "on" a bit.

I fixed it and it drives well, but I can't lock up the brakes in the rear. Before I start playing with the proportioning valve I wanted to ask if I could have done permanent damage to the brake pads. If so I will change them out. They only have about 2000 miles on them.
I have a complete Wilwood setup - rotors, calipers, and Master Cyl.

Thoughts? (Other than "Yes Scott, you are indeed a dumbass!")

scottjamison

I think I answered my own question.

I talked to Wilwood and the tech said that I probably glazed the rotors. He suggested taking 80 grit sand paper and sanding the rotors in a cross hatched patter, then following the break in procedure again.
I will try that this weekend.

Rescue Rogers

Use a block of wood with the 80 grit wrapped around it and go in one direction, then switch hands and go the other way and you will get the crosshatch you want. IF the pads dont brake in after that, new ones are inexpensive. If your brake pads retaining pin just has the little hair pin clip replace it with a cotter pin. If the clip fails, the pin can walk out and you will be doing this all again...