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Dude, you're overcomplicating this. I have a 68 sender in the intake manifold.
Do the Willcox checkups for the gauge, wiring, and sender..... and if they all appear satisfactory, AND you have good contact with installation, then just get the Willcox adjustable resistor and dial it in.
some intakes you have plenty of meat to cut a larger pipe thread where the sender location is. you gotta remember pipe sizes are the size of the hole in the pipe the stuff flows through. 1/8th pipe is close to 3/8 fine thread, 3/8th is a little bigger than half, etc. does the temp read above 210 degrees? do you hear boiling water bubbles as soon as you shut it off? if not, then gauge is reading high.
gauge was reading at the highest setting all the time, regardless of what the engine was at which was around 185. I dont hear anything at all once I turn the car off.
If there is only one wire to the sensor then you cannot use teflon tape around it. The sensor must make good contact with the intake manifold. Temp sensors that have two wires should be okay to use sealant tape. The sensor is brass and the manifold is aluminum so it will seal just fine without any paste or tape.
If there is only one wire to the sensor then you cannot use teflon tape around it. The sensor must make good contact with the intake manifold. Temp sensors that have two wires should be okay to use sealant tape. The sensor is brass and the manifold is aluminum so it will seal just fine without any paste or tape.
Not true. I was loosing coolant ever so slightly. Had a "H" of a time finding the leak. It was the original sending unit in an aftermarket aluminum head. I had put just a dab of thread sealant on there but was not enough. You have to keep the sealant away from the tip of the sender for a good ground.
HeadUP: are you sure you had the sender tight enough? The no teflon advise came from the switch manufacturer I used when I installed my SPAL fan relays.
Did not use Teflon tape because it covers too much thread. I use a thread sealant, comes in a white squeeze tube, maybe made by Permatex? But only use away from the tip of sender. And no, I did not torque it enough into the head I guess.
Removed,
cleaned threads,
re-apply sealant,
torque it better,
problem solved.
Did not use Teflon tape because it covers too much thread. I use a thread sealant, comes in a white squeeze tube, maybe made by Permatex? But only use away from the tip of sender. And no, I did not torque it enough into the head I guess.
Removed,
cleaned threads,
re-apply sealant,
torque it better,
problem solved.
As karol posted above ... for some at least, perhaps link below will dispel myth about tape wrecking temp reading ... scroll to bottom for concise demo
As karol posted above ... for some at least, perhaps link below will dispel myth about tape wrecking temp reading ... scroll to bottom for concise demo
I agree with this thread 100% I am Pipe-fitter/ Pipe welder by trade - Done many of threaded pipe jobs and yes ive had to redo some of my work. When unscrewing fittings that have been pipe doped or taped The tips of all the male and female threads are always clean and shinny. Carbon, stainless, copper doesn't matter the material.